1. THE GUESTS
This year’s industry insider talks were the place to be during this year’s event. First up was Karen Buglisi Weiler, the Global President of MAC Cosmetics. A charismatic blonde, with energy as endless as her high heels, she spoke to the audience about the power of make-up, her rise to the top of the cosmetic industry – she started on the sales counter for Revlon at 17 before working her way up through the ranks to become one of the most powerful women in beauty – and how the brand “is aware of how influential the Middle East is.” Next up, Scott Schuman from The Sartorialist spoke about his thoughts on how street style photography has evolved in the 10 years since he started his now-iconic website, and Business Of Fashion’s Imran Amed talked about how the passion project he started from his couch became one of the most successful and widely revered publications in the industry, in addition to speaking honestly about what it takes to make a fashion capital, which is greater than simply having purchasing power.
2. THE INSIDE INFORMATION
Regional design talents Nadine Kanso of Bil Arabi and Shourouk Rhaiem, founder of her own eponymous jewellery label, took to the stage to share their views during the Accessories: The Next Big Thing debate, whilst Huda and Mona Kattan, two of the sisters behind Huda Beauty, sat down to talk about how they started what is now one of the Middle East’s biggest beauty empires. It was a rare and fascinating insight to the business side of beauty and baubles, and an inspiring display of Middle Eastern women taking the business worlds, both here and internationally, by storm.
3. THE COMEBACK
Having rebranded from Poupée Couture to her now eponymous label, this season saw the return of Rula Galayini to the accessory world, and it’s all the better for it. The Articulate Collection, inspired by minimalist art and architecture, specifically the work of American artist Donald Judd, was comprised of 15 pieces, made from calf, python or snakeskin leather and featuring gold-plated brass. The new direction is edgier, and cooler than before, having grown up with the designer. That’s not to say the pieces aren’t still pretty, there’s just an added element of toughness in the details. Still expertly blending the East with the West, we’re excited to see how this new direction evolves in future collections
Taller Marmo S/S16
4. THE COLLECTION
Bazaar favourites Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea of Taller Marmo presented their S/S16 collection, which was inspired by Harper’s Bazaar editorials from the 1960s set amongst Arab landscapes. Other inspirations included the classic 1942 film Casablanca and the life of the Marsh Arabs in Iraq and the women of the Hadhramaut region. The result was a 21-piece collection that was entirely wearable, full of sleek, striped separates and regionally appropriate silhouettes, decorated in deep scarlet and black hues with white and grey accents. It was another strong collection that sets the pair up well for their debut at the International Woolmark Prize final in February 2016.
5. THE RTW DEBUT
Furne One made his ready-to-wear debut this season in a stunning, achingly cool collection inspired by spring in the Orient, referencing everything from ancient floral paintings to traditional embroidered costumes and Zen gardens. It retained the eccentric magic his couture collections have become known for, but he translated it into a more wearable aesthetic for every day. However, he did keep one couture element in the show – sending a bride, and one of the cutest page boys we’ve seen, down the catwalk for the finale. — Maddison Glendinning