Mugler x H&M: Mugler Creative Director Casey Cadwallader On The Story Behind The Upcoming Collaboration
“This had to be true to Mugler – nothing compromised or watered down – and that’s why the collection is full of so many of our classics”
Sinuous shapes, archival nods and unapologetic hedonism. The highly anticipated H&M x Mugler collaboration has been revealed and there is nothing shy about it. With a consistent search for innovation and a transcending spirit, Creative Director Casey Cadwallader has ushered in a new era at Mugler. And with it he has cultivated a fan base of creatives that include Beyoncé, Doja Cat and even Jerry Hall. However, what is so auspicious about this capsule is its effortless ability to transcend and entice a wider audience. Casey spoke exclusively with Harper’s Bazaar Arabia about the inspiration of the collection and how it will contribute to making the Mugler star shine even brighter.
Harper’s Bazaar Arabia (HBA): For many, the H&M collaboration is one of the most anticipated fashion releases of the year – due to its unique synergy of exclusivity and accessibility. What do you hope this collaboration can bring to your clientele?
Casey Cadwallader (CC): I hope that this collection offers people a piece of fashion history, in a dynamic and democratic fashion. I do think there is a shared ideology between H&M and Mugler – an interest in inclusivity and in opening up great fashion and a sense of empowerment to a diverse range of people. The Mugler world has always been about inviting people in, and that’s what we are doing here. I was very adamant that the collection has to include as many of our signatures as possible – the cat suits, the dresses, the great tailoring and architectural denim – so I hope people are really excited and thrilled by how recognisable the pieces are.
HBA: What is something completely unexpected that has inspired this collection? This could be a small detail or overall theme- maybe a specific memory or challenging truth?
CC: Interestingly, I was actually very inspired by the history of H&M’s designer collaborations – I grew up with them! So, when building the collection, I thought a lot about the ethos of the collaboration concept – which is about offering people something to collect, something that stands up in the history of fashion. I spent time looking at past H&M collaborations, like the one Alber Elbaz did, which was so true to Lanvin, in terms of the design of the pieces, as well as Versace and Margielas, which I actually bought pieces from at the time, and which, again, were really about offering people signature pieces. I drew a lot of inspiration from that idea. That’s the reason I was adamant that this had to be true Mugler – nothing compromised or watered down – and that’s why the collection is full of so many of our classics.
HBA: Mugler’s visual narrative is very distinctive and uniquely niche- immediately identifiable for their spiral cuts and figure hugging architecture. How did you adapt to designing for a wider market and can we expect to see a new signature in the future?
CC: I’ve found it a fascinating learning experience, working with H&M because they are so smart with how they source, choose and use materials, using a lot of recycled material, which plays a role in this collection. They know how to really add value for the customer and I’m thrilled that we can bring people Mugler pieces – which, as you say, often have complex cuts and beautiful fits – at such great price points. One thing we focused on with this collection was how we could take our iconic pieces – say the jeans, as you mention, or the dresses and bodysuits – and produce them at the scale and price-point needed with the most sustainable fabrics possible. One way we did that was by carefully working out which details were essential, and which could be stripped back to make the designs cleaner – so maybe it’s a seam that was removed, or the number of ties or knots on a dress that was edited down. It allowed us to make truly beautiful pieces, that are in no way a compromise, but that come at an affordable price point. I truly hope these pieces become collectors’ items, but at the same time, I also can’t wait to see them worn, loved and enjoyed, on the street, the dance floor or even online – wherever people choose, as Mugler is for everyone and anyone.
HBA: Mugler X H&M has been in conversation since early 2022. The effortlessly sleek campaign video reveals 80’s Mugler icons Jerry Hall and Connie Fleming. Talk to us about the importance of these references and what it was like to work with a generation that will now live through two distinct Mugler eras?
CC: I wouldn’t say I see Mugler as having two distinct eras. I think that a lot of the principles and ideals that Thierry Mugler had – around diversity, acceptance, theatricality, transformation, and empowerment – are things that are very close to my heart and as important today as then. I think Thierry is as relevant now as ever! I see the campaign as a real celebration of that – a homage to the house’s cultural relevance, in the world of dance, music, performance, club culture, and to the many distinct characters and beauties that have always been welcomed by the house of Mugler. The cast is an amazing mix. You have new musical stars who I love, such as Eartheater, Shygirl, Amaarae and Arca, and then you have the fashion icons, who you mention, such as Jerry Hall, who nods to the house’s association with supermodels, runway theatrics and high glamour, and then people who are really embedded in the contemporary Mugler community, such as Yilan Hua and Aweng Chuol. It’s nice to, in part, pay homage to the past and to Thierry’s legacy and circle. My own journey with the house is really connected to his vision and the archive, and using key elements, fits or fabrications from it as starting points for new ideas. That’s why I was excited to be able to include, alongside contemporary designs, some special archive remakes from the 80s and 90s within this collection.
HBA: Why is it important for your brand that you use ambassadors and models that represent an inclusive image of beauty?
CC: I think you sense that energy in the campaign – there are so many diverse figures, all wearing the collection in their own way and looking totally amazing. In terms of diversity when it comes to the body, Mugler has always been about extending the body into new realms, such as when Thierry mixed the body with technological aspects. I’m very inspired by that idea, and the idea of an empowered, confident person in the clothing, dressing in design with cuts, seams and lines as a form of architecture to accentuate, enhance or lift the body to play with silhouette. You see that in our signature spiral jeans, which feature prominently in the collection, and in the tailoring, which really is about playing with curves. I see the collection as something of a love letter to the body, as every Mugler piece is.
The Mugler x H&M capsule collection launches globally at selected stores and hm.com on May 11th, 2023
Images Supplied