For pre-fall ’17, his first collection for Marni, Francesco Risso sought out hidden treasures. “I was inspired by the classic codes of bourgeois clothing, robust on the outside but precious and intricate on the inside. The coats are something to wrap up in, but they reveal colourful lining.” The first designer to head up the brand since its founder Consuelo Castiglioni stepped down earlier last year, Francesco has interpreted original Marni signatures in his own way.
The result is a triumphant mixture of block colours and pattern, heavy coats and light silks and a juxtaposition of styling that keeps Marni’s aesthetic recognisable. “Culture clash is key,” says Francesco. His moodboard is filled with bright, pop tones and 1960s references that translate into the Marni staples of checks, stripes and polka-dots. The overall feeling is a sense of playfulness, the start of an exciting new chapter for the Italian house.