Introducing The H&M Studio A/W23 Collection: A Captivating Ode to Dark Glamour

Celebrating a decade of H&M Studio this year, the Swedish fashion brand prepares to launch one of its most daring collections to date. Wallflowers need not apply…

A curation of statement pieces. That’s what best describes H&M Studio A/W23 collection. Channelling the sophistication of film noir heroines, along with more than a sprinkling of bold energy and drama, the Swedish fashion brand’s new collection certainly isn’t for the risk-averse when it comes to their dressing habits.

“H&M Studio is our most directional, fashion-forward offering. For Autumn, our design team has created a collection that feels pragmatic but poetic,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Head of Design and Creative Advisor at H&M. “Premium qualities feature throughout the collection with tailoring, outerwear, and decorated denim that you’ll fall in love with instantly, and wear over and over, for years to come.”

Every piece has been created with the idea of feel-good power dressing in mind; a range of go-to looks for when you need a little sartorial pick-me-up. Think a tailored black maxi coat with a cinched waist; a bright-white shirt with an oversized bow; or a pair of low-slung trousers adorned with rhinestones and a matching dazzling jacket.

“The design team talked a lot about strict tailoring and decisive silhouettes, the kinds of pieces that strong-willed heroines wear to take on the world. Fashion is in a reset mode at the moment, with lots of black and a focus on ‘forever’ pieces, with a desire to smarten up,” says Linda Wikell, Concept Designer at H&M Studio. “We wanted to echo that mood with this A/W23 collection, with practical clothes that fit beautifully and will last for seasons to come.”

Celebrating a decade of H&M Studio since it was launched in 2013, this A/W23 collection marks the beginning of an exciting new chapter with plenty of drama and flair. Harper’s Bazaar Arabia sits down with Ann-Sofie Johansson and Linda Wikell as they share their insight and inspiration behind the A/W23 Collection

Harper’s Bazaar Arabia (HBA): Throughout your time as Head of Design, how have you seen H&M Studio evolve? 

Ann-Sofie Johansson (ASJ): When we launched H&M Studio in 2013, we wanted to demonstrate what we could really do in terms of design at H&M, and to give our customers amazing wardrobe items that they would keep forever. We structured the collections as biannual fashion collections, and we assembled a design team in Stockholm working on the collections in the same way as a heritage fashion house. That principle is still at the core of H&M Studio: it’s our most fashion-forward offering, delivered in high-quality materials, and designed to last for years to come. 

For me, over the last 10 years, the H&M Studio point of view has got stronger, and hopefully we have built a reputation for fashion-forward wardrobe pieces that really last, like a great suit or a party dress that sets your heart racing every time you wear it. Going forward, we will continue to evolve the line from this season as a creative framework to incorporate multiple drops per year. 

HBA: Can you share some insight into the design process of H&M Studio collections?

Linda Wikell (LW): The H&M Studio design team works like a design team at any other major fashion house. In our atelier in Stockholm we discuss ideas, create a moodboard, work on initial designs, fit them on a model and carry out a sampling process to perfect the fit and quality. We also spend a lot of time communicating with H&M’s production and sustainability teams to incorporate new innovations into the collection. Then, it’s on to the campaign, launch events, and taking feedback from our customers when the collection goes on sale.  

HBA: Can you tell us about the inspiration behind H&M Studio’s A/W23 Collection? 

ASJ: The A/W23 collection is strong and decisive. We began by talking about that thrill you get when you pull on an amazing fashion piece and feel like a million dollars – that was the feeling we wanted to capture with all of the items. 

But at the same time there is a big focus on wearable designs that you can style up or down and wear in lots of different combinations. Some of my favourite pieces include the long black tailored coat, the leather pencil skirt, and the rhinestone-speckled denim, which I think is a really fun day-to-night statement. 

HBA: The collection uses sustainably sourced materials. How important is it for H&M to incorporate these materials into collections?

ASJ: At H&M we have ambitious sustainability goals and we take our responsibility as an industry leader very seriously. From the very first conversations with the design team, we are talking about how to incorporate sustainably sourced materials in the collection. The design team works very closely with our production and sustainability teams to find new innovations that will make a difference. 

H&M Studio has used many innovations in collections over the last decade, including VEGEA™, a vegan material partly made from by-products, Tencel™, a cellulose-based fibre, and Eastman Naia™ Renew, a cellulose-based fibre made with 60% recycled content. We are always tracking new innovations, waiting until they are at the correct scale and quality to use in the collections, and as H&M Studio continues to evolve, we will continue to incorporate learnings from other areas of the business. 

LW: As a design team, we talk a lot about emotional durability, and about how to design pieces that will last for years to come – that’s step one of the sustainable mindset. Then, when it comes to materials, we work very closely with our fantastic production and sustainability teams to develop fabrics and materials that will age beautifully, be durable and long-lasting, and also give our customers a little thrill when they pull on the pieces. 

HBA: What are a few of your favourite pieces from H&M Studio’s A/W23 Collection?

LW: I love the long black coat, which is such a dramatic piece, but I also love the droplet shirt – it’s our key print for the season, designed by our dedicated print designer Moa Bartling. I wear a lot of black, and a lot of denim, so I would also pick the turquoise silk shirt – it’s such a beautiful colour and will help to lift the spirits during the dark Stockholm winters. 

HBA: What do you think are essential qualities that make items of clothing staples in one’s wardrobe, season after season? 

ASJ: I think longevity is defined by quality and fit. H&M Studio has used some really beautiful materials over the years that are durable and hard-wearing, and always includes wardrobe classics that never go out of style – the biker jacket, the trench coat, the mannish suit. We have worked really hard to make sure that these items make you feel pulled together. They should feel like old friends you wear again and again.  

H&M Studio A/W23 collection will be available online in the UAE and Kuwait, and in-stores at Dubai Mall from September 28, 2023.

Images supplied.