The Player: Le Cirque
The New York landmark brings its French-Italian fine dining touch to Dubai’s Ritz Carlton – but with a decidedly local twist
With multiple venues across the USA, India, UAE and the Dominican Republic, Le Cirque, started in 1974 by Sirio Maccioni, has seen numerous star chefs pass through its kitchen. While it quietly opened its Dubai venue this past spring, it has been steadily marking its territory by providing its menu classics with a regional spin.
The venue is classical French – marble, white and expansive windows – and has a timeless, elegant and lux feel. The golden bar greets you upon entry, where a concise list of signature cocktails includes La Giostra – with smoked limoncello and artichoke liqueur “to open your palette”, explains the bartender. The servers possess impeccable knowledge of the menu – Julie, who guided our table – explains that it is essential that all the staff taste each dish and know it. So when it comes to ordering the round of appetizers, we are advised to test the Noix de St Jacques which come with coconut, lime and sweet potato in different forms; the Burrata, which has a unique, if acquired, taste due to its pairing with grilled peach, green olives and candied pine nuts; and the Carpaccio de Boeuf. Served as expected with rocket leaves, Parmesan and truffle vinaigrette, two servers stop by and discuss the intensity of the truffle after we enquire on how strongly it resonates through the dish. The playful banter – and honest opinions – humanizes the experience and makes the French fine dining menu more accessible to those who might be mislead by the stark white table cloths and crisp, sharpness of the discreet, quiet venue.
The dishes are artfully presented. With portions on the smaller side, sharing is an option should you go for a couple mains. On offer are a diverse assortment – from pastas and risottos including a saffron fregola with a slow poached egg, leeks, caramelized onions and truffle, to grilled entrecote with béarnaise; Canard à l’Orange, roast duck breast with sweet potato purée, orange marmalade, honey and clove; Amandine Dover Sole; and an assortment of sides such as Haricots Verts with smoked almonds, Carrottes aux noisettes (carrots with hazelnut) or truffle-laden asparagus. The dishes are rich but not overwhelming, notable with the Filet de Boeuf with mash, Short Rib Bourguignon and horseradish that ought to be indulged solo for all its tastiness. The dishes are playful, and a quick read through the menu will provide an intellectual sensorial jolt. Take, for example, the Ravioli au Crabe stuffed with roasted apple purée and ricotta, which seemed surprisingly out-of-place. However, it proved a surprising bite, both flavour and texture-wise, and was ultimately a small delight in how shellfish can play with fruity sweetness. Le Cirque takes small, but it seems mostly calculated risks, proving that everything is worth trying, at least once.
The dessert menu is where Le Cirque plays most though. While the must-have Chocolate Soufflé and Crème Brulee remain classic and indulgent, the chef plays with the Bomboloni – spiced plum and cherry jam and peanut brittle – and the Lemon Meringue, adding in honeycomb, white chocolate and camel milk ice cream. More pronounced in its mental challenge, the flavours balance well and anything off-piste is so well assimilated it is barely noticeable, but the choices do beg the question if this degree of experimentation is necessary, given the strength of the ingredients and the integrity of good, classic dishes done well, as seen with several of the plates which don’t include any bells and whistles.
But Le Cirque is carving out its DIFC foodie presence with familiar dishes that offer something a little new – if novel – to draw in the crowd – including Chef Wesley Tyron Berghoff’s Déjeuner avec Le Chef concept. Each day for the Business Lunch offer, he creates a bespoke menu based on whatever captures your imagination that afternoon – a fish, a meat, perhaps a salad. The diner offers the prompt and the chef creates a culinary surprise from there. While some dishes may go an unnecessary, but harmless, step too far, this concept is an example of how when Le Cirque takes the right risk, it’s worth it.
Le Cirque Dubai, Ritz Carlton
Open daily
+971 43722444
[email protected]
