Fourth generation family-owned jewellery house, Hemmerle, unveiled an array of nature-inspired fine jewellery pieces from earrings to rings and bangles at this year’s TEFAF Spring fair in Maastricht and New York. Known for meticulous craftsmanship and their antique aesthetic, Hemmerle’s handcrafted jewels are imbued with cultural and historical elements. The 125-year-old jeweller is run by Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle, their son Christian and daughter-in-law, Yasmin.
“All our handcrafted works are one-of-a-kind and whilst underpinned by Hemmerle DNA, each jewel has its individual inspirations, material and colour combinations,” say Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle. “Seeing the response our creations generate energises us in our work.”
Hemmerle bangle, diamonds, bronze, white gold. The aesthetic Hemmerle is known for today was sparked in the 1990s when they set a diamond in textured iron. They now juxtapose all different kinds of metals and materials and in this bangle bronze complements the beauty of the diamonds.
Driven by creative experimentation of unique material combinations such as 17th and 19th century micromosaics paired with aluminium, Hemmerle finds a balance that is rare, yet beautiful. “Our aim with such material combinations is to complement each other in a perfect symbiosis, an exercise that in many instances requires us to research new elements within our visual vocabulary,” they share. “Materials are our starting point and drive our creativity. Often we centre our creations around an artefact or a stone in an effort to develop the perfect home for it.”
On show at TEFAF New York Spring were works by Hemmerle that challenge traditional design techniques such as a pair of earrings that took years to craft, in which two sparkling diamonds float amid bronze spikes. “Such new ways of thinking around design are the essence of how we strive to surprise ourselves and our audiences with our work.”
Hemmerle earrings, diamonds, silver, white gold. Nature is a continual source of inspiration to Hemmerle and here diamonds are encased in leaves hand-carved in blackened silver in a technically challenging creation. The contrasting colours of metal and stone bring to the fore a strong dynamic which we aimed to achieve.
Part of the inspiration behind the new creations is derived from Swiss-German artist Paul Klee’s explorations of colour theory, as well as the relationship between material function and technology that has been highlighted by American-German artist Josef Albers.
“Unusual rare woods and treasure-hunted artefacts as well as the development of our own patinas and the use of a variety of metals are some of the components that distinguish us,” they share. “Our works are intended to reflect the originality, individuality and beauty of the world that continues to be an endless source of creativity and inspiration. We plan to keep on innovating our designs whilst remembering and respecting the past and our heritage.”
Hemmerle will be on show at PAD London and TEFAF New York Fall later this year.
The TEFAF New York Spring fair was on show from May 3 until May 7 2019
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