Ayurveda Beauty Treatments: Why The Ancient Wellness Philosophy Is Making Its Way Into Your Skin and Haircare Regime
With its ties to both the Middle East and India, the mind-body benefits of Ayurveda are well documented. Now a new generation of beauty products is ensuring this ancient practice is also backed by modern science
Having being practised for over 5,000 years, Ayurveda is hardly new. Translated from Sanskrit as ‘the science of life,’ it’s a system of holistic medicine that uses diet, plant-based treatments and self-care rituals such as meditation to keep the mind and body in equilibrium. And it’s this 360-degree approach that’s whetting the appetite of a new audience, now that there’s a zeitgeisty focus on mind-body balance and botanical remedies that work in harmony with the skin.
In recent years, Ayurveda-inspired wellness practices have infiltrated everyday life without us necessarily realising it – drinking hot water with lemon in the morning to flush out toxins, dry brushing, doing yoga or knocking back a turmeric latte. Now a new crop of beauty entrepreneurs is putting Ayurvedic beauty, also dubbed ‘A-beauty’ on the map; men and women who are owning their heritage but are keen to take Ayurveda into the 21st century. With a focus on combining credible science with ancient wisdom and high-performance natural ingredients, they’re birthing a trend that may just be the next big movement in beauty…
Old meets new
Fable & Mane has brought hair-oiling to the masses. Its cult-ish HoliRoots Hair Oil is spiked with circulation-boosting castor oil and the Ayurvedic adaptogen ashwagandha, which has anti-inflammatory properties. “In Ayurveda, the act of self-love starts at the crown,” say sibling co-founders Akash and Nikita Mehta of the ritual they grew up with. “The head is home to our nervous system. Scalp massage, using oils that contain adaptogens, is a daily routine to calm the nervous system and balance energy. The ritual also stretches the hair from the roots, stimulating them to produce thicker strands.” For a similar feeling of Zen, try shirodhara at the Anantara Spa at The Palm Dubai Resort, where a continuous stream of warm oil is poured over the forehead to release tension while simultaneously nourishing the hair.
Another time-honoured notion pays attention to doshas: three energy types, which correlate to skin types. “Pitta is metaphorically ruled by fire and water,” says Tanya Myers Shah, brand director at Urban Veda, which recently launched in Dubai. “When out of balance, this combination can manifest as hot flushes and sensitivity. Vata is the air element and prone to dryness. Meanwhile, the elements of earth and water that rule kapha types can show up as congestion and blocked pores if, say stress, takes its toll on your complexion.”
A tentative approach to using doshas is perhaps the biggest indication of where today’s Ayurvedic beauty brands are adding a modern spin to ancient practices. Urban Veda alludes to them with its colour-coded lines; others, such as Ranavat, have chosen to eliminate doshas all together in favour of being ‘tri-doshic’, meaning they work for any skin type. “In creating Ranavat, I wanted to streamline the approach and make Ayurvedic skincare more accessible,” says founder Michelle Ranavat.
Now for the science bit
The clinical validation of Ayurveda’s legendary ingredients was equally crucial for Michelle. “There’s a tendency to feel that ‘ancient’ means ‘outdated’, so I wanted to make sure these treatments spoke the same clinical language we are familiar with today,” she explains. “As a scientist myself, I found it important to validate what I always knew: that Ayurveda is a science and the skincare benefits are incredible.”
Take bakuchi. Traditionally used for its anti-inflammatory properties, a study published in the British Journal of Dermatology shows that bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol at improving the signs of ageing. Ranavat’s Eternal Reign Renewing Bakuchi Crème uses the whole bakuchi seed, which is ground into a paste, alongside oil-infused adaptogens.
But turmeric is by far the most popular ingredient in Ayurvedic beauty products – and that’s no coincidence. “Curcuminoids, the compounds within turmeric, offer remarkable antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities, creating an optimal environment for healthy hair growth,” says Kuldeep Knox, founder of Chāmpo Haircare, noting it’s a key ingredient in the Kapha Balancing Collection. Likewise, Mauli Rituals deploys this skin-brightening spice in its Radiance Mask & Exfoliant. While a distilled fraction of turmeric oil known as ‘turmerone’ is used as a base throughout Urban Veda’s Turmeric+Botanics line, alongside cell-repairing peptides and amino acids. “Turmerone is the most medicinal part of the plant and is proven to possess potent antioxidant bioactivity,” says Tanya. “On a cellular level, our inclusion of turmerone is clinically proven to improve skin tone and radiance by more than 30 per cent within eight weeks.” (A study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology also found that turmeric reduces hyperpigmentation on facial skin).
For some, A-beauty is a chance to physically and spiritually detox. “During the pandemic, people focussed on wellbeing in ways they’d never experienced before,” say Fable & Mane’s founders. Others are drawn to Ayurveda to counteract that very modern malady, stress, and its ageing side-effects. “Ayurveda can be incredibly beneficial for the skin because it helps to manage our body’s response to stress,” says Michelle. Not only that, but “the textures and scents will transport you to your very own mental oasis.”
Photography: Santiago Belizon
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s April 2022 issue.