Why Dolce&Gabbana’s Velvet Black Patchouli Will Take You On A Mythical Journey With The Power of Scent

The fragrance will transport you via mysterious notes borrowed from the East, paired with a thoughtful homage to the signature audacity of the Italian design duo

Ten years ago, Rodrigo Flores-Roux was asked by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to create a range of fragrances for the brand’s inaugural Velvet Collection. As a huge fan of the design duo’s fashion, it was a dream gig for the Mexican perfumer.

“I love the brand’s baroque maximalism and the designers’ ability to always create coherent and beautiful complete looks,” explains Rodrigo. “I particularly like the brand’s attention to details, the deep knowledge of art, and their use of historical and artistic references.”

So, when Dolce&Gabbana reconnected with Rodrigo to collaborate on another fragrance for 2021 – Velvet Black Patchouli – he was naturally delighted. “It’s like my collaboration with Dolce&Gabbana has come full circle,” he smiles.

Whereas the 2011 fragrances were inspired by Sicily, the 2021 scent, he explains, was led by patchouli itself and “its rich woodiness, its freshness, and its intriguing floral, fruity and animal tones.” He adds, “It is a story of the fusion of East and West. Patchouli symbolises that rich exchange of cultures, because it references a time when precious goods arrived from the East to the shores of Italy, cloaked in its mysterious scent. The fragrance tells the story of Italy and its open doors to the Orient.”

Describing the unisex fragrance as “ultra-rich, magnetic and sensual,” Rodrigo has a clear idea of who would wear it. “The person I envisage is unapologetically elegant and audacious – not a shy individual, but a ‘more is more’ kind of girl or guy,” he says. “I like to think of my fragrances as talkative or chatty and this one has a lot to say! It radiates elegance and exudes confidence. It is quite strong and has been described as a ‘non-stopper’, and I like that.”

Fittingly for a flamboyant brand like Dolce&Gabbana, the journey that Rodrigo embarked upon to make Velvet Black Patchouli had many twists and turns. “The creative process was complex as we kept several paths open, and in fact allowed the creative avenues to interweave,” he says. “I am a perfumer who derives great pleasure from fine-tuning and polishing the details to find exactly the right dosages of materials. For Velvet Black Patchouli, we did not leave any stone unturned.”

Now 52, Rodrigo first decided he wanted to be a perfumer aged just 13.

“Perfume is my life,” he says simply. “I love and feel very comfortable working with citrus – lemon, orange, bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit. Maybe my love for these hesperidic notes comes from my childhood: I grew up in a house in Mexico City that had both an orange tree and a lemon tree in its courtyard.”

Other sources of inspiration include the Italian Renaissance, Italian Baroque art, Greek and Roman sculpture and architecture – themes one imagines you might also find on the mood board in Dolce&Gabbana’s fabulous atelier.

“My approach to creation is constantly evolving, either experimenting with new materials or exploring an old or classic theme, revising formulation styles and editing,” he says. “It’s a craft that is always under review.”

Lead image credits: Velvet Black Patchouli Perfume, Dhs995 for 50ml, Dolce&Gabbana

Photography: Efraim Evidor. Styling: Nour Bou Ezz

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s June 2021 issue.