Here’s how you can show your textured tresses some love
Waves, ringlets or coils – it doesn’t matter what the curl pattern is. Curly hair is unique in every sense of the word, in that not only do any two heads of curls ever look the same, but they also require different approaches to maintenance. The world of curly hair care is a deep hole, embodied by an entire niche on the Internet dominated by influencers showing their fellow ‘curlies’ how to wash, style and protect their own curls.
“In recent years, there has been a real move towards people embracing their natural hair and working to style its individual texture,” says Sam Carpenter, hair artist educator for Eideal and Davines Arabia, adding that the advent of this revolution can be owed to the surge in technology and product development.
Despite that, majority of the women with curly hair embark on their journey to hair freedom with a love-hate relationship as Point A. Take it from Ameni Esseibi, Tunisian model and champion for body positivity.
“I grew up actually hating my curls and my curly hair,” she says, recalling her highschool days when her unique hair brought a lot of negative attention. “I was always straightening it and I ended up burning my hair that way and killed all my curls.”
Ameni started embracing her natural hair as recently as two or three years ago, coming to the realisation that her curls are a special sight in the fashion and beauty industry, and that they give her the power to inspire hundreds of women just like her.
For newbies who have just decided to throw out their straighteners and go natural, the endless variety of products, methods and tips can be daunting. So, in the spirit of embracing your true self, here is a basic breakdown of the what’s what of curly hair.
The Curly Girl Method
The famed ‘Curly Girl Method’ or ‘CGM’ is a simple four-step process to help your curls reach their styling potential minus the heat and damage. Essentially, it encourages the formation of the natural curl pattern.
Owing to the glorious variety of curl types, this method is just the foundation of curly styling. The steps are a rough outline that can be tailored to suit different needs.
Step One: Cleanse
Cleansing is the no-brainer first step because clean hair = healthy hair. If your curls are colour treated or tend to get dry and brittle, consider choosing gentle shampoos that are low on sulfates and silicones. They will cleanse your scalp without stripping it too much of it’s natural oils or creating wet frizz in the ends post-wash.
Step Two: Condition
Reintroducing the moisture your hair shaft lost during the cleansing process is important because dry hair is a big no-no. Excessive loss of moisture will make your hair rough and prone to breakage. This is where a highly hydrating conditioner steps in to save the day. If you have fine or low density curls, look for lightweight options without heavy oils and butters that won’t weigh them down.
Step Three: Style
Gels, leave-in creams, mousses, foams and other styling products will elongate the life of your wash while giving your curls definition and hold. But here’s the catch. Every head of curly hair doesn’t require all of these.
The combination and order of product application varies and so do the techniques used to get those balanced, defined curls. Depending on your curl type, you might need to brush style or scrunch – or both.
Step Four: Dry
The final step, drying, sets the styled curls in place and locks in all those products you layered. Diffusers and diffuser attachments for hair dryers speed up the drying process and minimise the frizz that generally comes with air drying. The longer the curls are wet, the higher the chance for them to stretch out from the water weight but whether you choose to air dry or diffuse, remember to scrunch out the crunch – the gel that dries into a hard cast – to reveal beautiful, bouncy curls.
The Curly Cut
The Curly Cut is an institution in itself and is naturally, wildly different from haircuts for straight hair. For starters, it’s done on dry hair because curls elongate when wet and shrink up when dry, which is why curly cuts are best done on dry curls so that the final result stays true to the overall desired length. Trimming individual pieces also helps to maintain shape and the complete look of the curls.
But the primary difference lies in identifying the curl pattern.
“The key to cutting curly hair is understanding the curls and knowing the curl pattern, which curls are going to jump and which ones are not,” says Karl Warner, hairstylist and Artistic Director at Pastels Salon, The Ritz Carlton, JBR.
Understanding the personality of your curly hair is a labour of love, a process that can be made that much easier with the help of a professional, which is why investing in a curly cut is one of the best things you can do for your curls.
“It will allow you to make the most of your curl pattern so you can embrace your curls and have your hair looking its best,” remarks Karl.
“Most good hair salons will know how to handle curly hair but there are exceptionally talented stylists who specialise in this genre,” says Sam, highlighting the importance of experts who know what they’re doing.
For curly hair care virgins, they will also be able to hold your hand through tailoring a specialist routine and range of products for your curls, which Sam says is a must.
According to Karl, his curly girl customers these days are loving full curls with loads of movement.
“They also want less layering, so they don’t have the roundness you get with too much layering and they definitely don’t want the triangular shape.”
Protection for the win
An important aspect of curly hair care is protection, whether it’s from the harsh elements of nature or your pillow during sleep. Materials like cotton cause friction, as opposed to gentler silks and satins that minimise breakage and frizz. Curl protection while sleeping looks like using a silk pillowcase instead of cotton ones, avoiding elastics and opting for silk scrunchies, and using silk lined bonnets and scarves to cover the curls.
Prone to frizz, curls can also be a challenge to keep fresh in the outdoors when the typical Middle Eastern summers descend upon us, bringing with them heat and humidity. Here is where the stylers step in to wrap the curl clumps in a protective layer. Look out for serums and gels that are specially designed for frizz reduction. Humidity shields and anti-frizz sprays are also some great topical options that will give your curls a quick refresh.
Bonus – Ameni’s tips to safely heat-style curly hair
- Don’t skip out on heat protectants.
- Treat your curls to a conditioning mask the night before.
- Wash out any build-up caused by heat styling products.
- Give your scalp a relaxing massage or indulge in a hot oil treatment.
- Ditch the curly hair stylers and give your hair a breather after all that heat.
Healthy curls are happy curls
Quality products and the right methods are essential for curly hair care, but it all starts with healthy hair which is why protein and hydration will be your best friends. Deep conditioning treatments work like magic for curls that dry out easily but if your curls feel limp and softer than normal, they might be in need of some protein. Cleansers, conditioners and stylers with protein will restore life to lifeless curls and give them strength to hold body.
Bonus – Karl’s tips to build a hair care foundation
- Invest in a specialist shampoo and conditioner, curl crème and a good quality microfibre towel
- Ask your stylist for guidance on which product is best for your hair
Love thy hair
Accepting your curls for all their natural beauty and embracing hair freedom is the true first step of setting off on a curly hair journey.
“Don’t let society tell you that curly hair is not pretty and not classy or elegant,” says Ameni, adding that women with curly hair have naturally what others are paying big money to replicate.
Lead image courtesy of Jason Lloyd Evans