Do Collagen-Boosting Treatments Really Work?

Our bodies produce collagen in abundance, but it’s not long before levels of this hardworking protein start to drop. Can the latest range of wonder products really restore them?

With the collagen industry expected to exceed Dhs$128 billion by 2026 (according to Global Market Insights), chances are you’ve been at least tempted to test out its promises of thicker hair, stronger nails, sturdier joints and glossier skin.

“The word collagen has become synonymous with beauty health”, says pharmacist and cosmetics entrepreneur Pupinder Ghatora. “But despite the rush, there is still a limited understanding of the role that collagen plays in the body and slowing down the aging process.” So, should we be jumping on the bandwagon? The most abundant protein in the body, collagen is a fibre-like structure found in the connective tissue in skin, tendons, bone and joints, helping to keep them healthy, hydrated and strong, our bodies make it naturally from amino acids obtained in our diet; however, levels drop by about 1.5 per cent every year after the age of 20, totalling a 30 per cent loss by the time we reach our forties.

As such, collagen supplementation makes for a convincing anti-aging argument, particularly as there’s some evidence to suggest the practice may benefit skin and joint health. “I know a number of plastic surgeons who prescribe oral collagen to their patients around the time of cosmetic surgery, with the aim of speeding up wound healing and minimising scarring,” notes Dr Dev Patel, a cosmetic doctor and the founder of the skincare brand CellDerma.

Part of the challenge in making sense of the industry is the sheer number of brands competing for our attention. “The choice for the consumer is dizzying, with differing doses, formats and product messaging,” says Ghatora. To complicate things further, collagen products are labelled as food supplements rather than drugs, putting us at the mercy of a market vulnerable to bogus beauty claims – or ‘faux science,’ as Ghatora calls it.

Then there are brands that prefer to pay for celebrity endorsement rather than invest in lab-based trials; so, never take a supplement at (famous) face value. “If a product does not have its own data, the consumer should be quite wary,” says Ghatora, who advises choosing supplements with clinically proven formulations. This is especially important since collagen is a notoriously tricky molecule for the body to absorb unless capsulated; most of the active product in collagen-based drinks, tablets and shots will be destroyed by stomach acid before it can enter the bloodstream, meaning that, at best, the bulk of your money will be expelled as waste.

“At worst, many formulations contain anti-nutrients as they are unstable by nature, so they need preservatives and flavour-masking chemicals, none of which will benefit the body or skin,” adds Ghatora. Unless a collagen brand can prove its results, it’s unlikely it ever had any, even relying on skincare to boost collagen levels comes with complications. As a long chain protein, collagen is too big and not stable enough to penetrate the skin. “We use collagen in our products purely as a second protective skin barrier. We don’t, and wouldn’t ever, expect it to absorb like a retinol or vitamin C,” explains QMS Medicosmetics’ Rowan Hall-Farrise.

In a topical cream, “look for ingredients that stimulate collagen production, such as peptides and amino acids. The idea that you could add collagen to the skin by adding it to your formula is misleading,” Says Stephen de Heinrich, co-owner of Omorovicza. While there are effective ways to encourage collagen production in the body, identifying them requires a degree of knowledge on the part of the consumer. As is the case when navigating any nascent industry, it pays to do your homework.

The Best Collagen-Boosting Cosmetic Treatments

The Filler

HArmonyCa combines the benefits of traditional hyaluronic-acid fillers with calcium hydroxyapatite to stimulate collagen production.

The Skin Repairer

Containing hyaluronic-acid, amino acids and vitamins, Redensity II can be injected across the full face (unlike similar treatments, which are solely for the lower face and neck).

The Needle-Free Solution

Safe to use around the eyes. Sofwave focuses ultrasound to heat 1.5mm deep into the mid -dermis, reducing wrinkles by speeding up collagen regeneration.

Supplements To Build Your Reserves Naturally

Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Collagen Support, Dhs365.

A collagen co-factor supplement in capsule form that includes multi-vitamins, zinc, and magnesium.

Dose & Co Beauty Collagen Mixed Berry, Dhs190.

One Bazaar writer reported stronger nails after three months of using this product. It also contains vitamin C.

Ingenious Beauty Ultimate Collagen, Dhs945.

Users of this supplement experienced a marked improvement in skin texture and hydration during clinical trials.

Lead Image Credits: Photography: Fernando Gomez.

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s February 2024 Issue.