“Kiss The Frog”: Turkish Jewellery Designer Begüm Kiroglu Unveils A Tongue-In-Cheek, Non-Bridal Bridal Line of Accessories

Her debut collection for brides seeking unique and playful pieces rethinks how women should be accessorising for the Big Day

“I’m not a romantic designer but I’m a hopeless romantic at heart,” says Begüm Kiroglu, the Turkish designer behind jewellery label, Begüm Khan. It’s an interesting stance for someone who’s just launched their debut bridal collection. But this is bridalwear accessorising with a twist.

Entitled the Non-Bridal Bridal collection, it’s filled with humour, and aims to transform the perception of bridalwear. A fresh perspective away from the overly-romantic and cookiecutter, towards something more playful and unique. “I think the way weddings have now become, there is a certain formula around them. But I like spontaneity and freedom. So this collection is about making fun of a wedding and injecting a bit of humour into the celebrations. Romantic meets fun,” she says.

With a Marry Me ring, All the Single Turtles necklace, and hairpins called I Said No and Kiss the Frog, it’s tongue-in-cheek and full of personality. The collection launched in Paris this February. “We had a pop-up during Paris Fashion Week and then a huge party in Istanbul. It was Begüm’s non-wedding wedding,” she laughs. The dress code was bridal. “Everyone came in white, dressed as brides. It was so much fun.”

Launching Begüm Khan in 2012, it took over a decade for the designer to enter this sphere, despite numerous requests from friends and clients. “I thought [the requests] were a bit strange, because if you look at our bugs, dragons and lobsters, you wouldn’t really think ‘bridal’,” the designer explains. “But somehow I found myself experimenting with it and I wanted to do it.”

Despite never considering herself as one who makes ‘pretty things’, something romantic did emerge. Flowers. Perhaps an organic evolution from the natural world her striking designs are so known for, blooms became a starting point for the Non-Bridal Bridal collection. “I never thought I’d do flowers, but as with everything, life evolves and your designs evolve,” Begüm says. “Flowers were the roots, habitats and homes of my animals and suddenly they made a beautiful story. They made perfect sense.”

Never straying too far from her dreamlike world of mystical Eastern and Ottoman influences, the Non-Bridal Bridal collection features nazar, marigolds and liliums, alongside turtles, frogs, scarabs, and dragonflies. “Of course there’s animals,” Kiroglu laughs, “But this time it’s more subtle, as the bride should be the focus.”

The collection features everything from rings to hairpins, chokers to bangles and, “Because this is a different kind of bride, huge ear cuffs.” Material-wise, there’s plenty of crystals, pearls, diamante, and pink, and quieter colourways than usual. “We use gold, rose gold and platinum, because we wanted them to look more bridal.”

Everything is handcrafted in Begüm’s workshop in Istanbul. While the pieces aren’t quite bespoke, the artisanal craftsmanship allows every piece to have their own subtle nuances, rendering then ‘unique.’ “We don’t make large quantities – maybe 10 of each piece.”

The collection is so big, however, that Begüm has split it in two – the first drop was during Paris Fashion Week and the second this summer. “We might even have a second wedding!” she laughs. “I never repeat anything, but the first wedding was so loved, that I think this requires a second. Or perhaps a renewal of the vows!”

As for inspiration, “It’s like love,” Begüm says. “If you’re open to it, it’s everywhere. I never push for inspiration, but I have a really open heart and eyes.” For the Non-Bridal Bridal collection, Begüm looked to famous ‘non-bride’ brides, like Bianca Jagger and Jane Birkin. “It’s not just about how they dress or the ceremonies,” she explains, “It’s about the attitude.” How you wear each piece, where you wear it, how you style it…

The collection’s campaign, photographed in Paris, shows just that – two friends driving around the City of Lights, a hotel room, a pizza parlour, Begüm Khan jewellery wherever they go. It all ties back into the notion of breaking out of formulaic patterns and offering a fresh perspective on what a wedding could be. “You could close your favourite pizza place and have pizza and champagne and that could be the best wedding ever,” Kiroglu says. “You don’t need perfection. Perfection is overrated. You need your own perfection.”

Pieces for the Non-Bridal Bridal collection have been designed as ‘icons’ in their own right, and will be available for years to come, says the designer. “We’re going to add to this collection and also create a new one.”

But the real beauty of the Non-Bridal Bridal collection is that it goes beyond bridalwear – allowing the pieces to be worn in different ways on different occasions. “You can be a bride, or if you’ve never been a bride before but want to feel bridal without wearing bridal pieces…” The designs are for everyone, with pieces that celebrate the excitement of new beginnings, and freedom and originality for all.

For more information visit begumkhan.com

Images: Supplied

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s Bride Spring/Summer 2024 issue.