JJ Martin On Her Biggest Inspiration, Beauty Of The Middle East, And The Story Behind LaDoubleJ
Fresh off the success of her Dubai pop-up, the designer and former journalist talks about her joyful, maximalist creations
Bold, breezy, and colorful: JJ Martin’s label, La DoubleJ, is perhaps the perfect representation of her personality. An American inhabiting Milan for the past decade or so, JJ’s style sensibilities may be Californian in their nature, but the heart of her designs is in bold, vintage Italian textile. As a fashion editor turned designer, Martin seamlessly blends together both her passions – wellness and the Italian way of life – to provide a unique shopping experience to her customers globally. And after her pop-up at Harvey Nichols Dubai, she’s ready to take the Middle East by storm.
Bazaar Arabia catches up with the designer to talk about her journey, diverse sources of inspiration, and all things La Double J….
Harper’s Bazaar Arabia (HBA): What was the impetus of having a pop-up in Harvey Nichols Dubai?
J.J. Martin (JJ): Although we’ve had touchdowns in the Middle East in the past, we’ve always wanted to expand our presence in the region, so we’re now entering the market in a big way in several key cities (of course, we’re most excited about being at Harvey Nichols Dubai!) As a brand that’s already very well known in the United States, it’s a pleasure to be in such great company at Harvey Nichols, particularly as a member of the new school of luxury brands.
HBA: Who is the La DoubleJ woman?
JJ: It’s funny because we never quantify or qualify the La DoubleJ woman in typical fashion terminology. La DoubleJ is a state of mind and that state is one of joy. So we are always attracted to and by women who are beaming from the inside and out and they want their clothes to reflect that. It doesn’t matter if you’re petite, tall, slim, curvy, old, young. We’re a very inclusive, forward thinking brand. It just feels more modern to us to talk about more than one type of women. We’re a brand dedicated to sisterhood and to celebrating all women – for us it’s more about her attitude of openness, rather than just her aesthetic.
HBA: Why was it important for you to make La DoubleJ a lifestyle brand and not just a clothing brand?
JJ: Well, I started by selling vintage and having a very editorially focused website. The lifestyle brand that exists today is the result of taking that initial idea and slowly building on that. We steadily built up our ready to wear, adding home ware, swimwear, ski apparel, accessories and then expanded our focus to include the spirituality and wellness that are such core components of the brand.
None of this was really the result of a logical pre-strategised business plan but rather felt like a very intuitive approach. As a former journalist, I was just as involved in the design world as I was in fashion and my spiritual practice is a huge part of my life so, as the business evolved, it felt instinctive to weave in these elements that I have a deep personal interest in.
HBA: Having been born in Los Angeles, what was it about Italy that initially drew you in?
JJ: I actually suffered a lot during my first five years living in Italy. I’d just moved from New York so I was very accustomed to a fast city pace and rhythm, and that go-go-go mentality. But, ironically, all of the things that drove me most crazy about Italy – the slowness, the little inefficiencies – are now some of the things I prize the most.
It was really this slowness and stillness that allowed me to stop, look around, and start appreciating all of the beauty, tastes, sights, sounds and smells that were around me. It’s a truly remarkable country and I’m so inspired by Italians and their culture. They are such fun, loving, easy, happy, and graceful human beings.
HBA: Your prints are inspired by vintage Italian textiles. What is it about finding the new in the old that appeals to you?
JJ: I used to be an obsessive vintage collector for many years. I was always just very attracted to the colors, the prints and the embellishments that I would find on vintage clothing. When we first began, we started with vintage prints but have now evolved to design many of our own new prints, but even these have that same vintage flavor so there’s a real consistency in the aesthetic. Maybe it is a little nostalgic. It’s a blend of optimism, glamour, boldness and a really fearless approach to fashion. That uniquely Italian willingness to stand out and be seen.
HBA: How do you think your time spent working as an editor shaped the way you view the fashion industry? In which ways did it train you to spot new opportunities?
JJ: As a former journalist I was trained in story telling and in what was actual news, so every time we launch a new product or collection I’m always thinking about how we’re going to tell a story and communicate it in a way that is new, different, and relevant for women. The story-telling is key not just from a content standpoint but in how we build the collections.
While working as a journalist I was always on the hunt for utility while as a consumer I was looking for practicality, something I could wear. As a designer its about finding the balance between what feels fresh but also very in tune with how people want to dress. I think my background as a writer and editor has made me more grounded in the business side of things.
I’m very creative but at the same time I really care about what we say, how we say it, and how a woman is actually going to feel in and respond to the product. I really enjoy being on the shop floor, talking to women, in essence interviewing the people who are buying and wearing the clothes and getting their feedback. It’s like a mini focus group.
HBA: The Middle Eastern market is big on vibrant, colourful prints – perhaps it has to do with the warm climate. I feel that your brand resonates with our market both in terms of aesthetic and attention to quality. Do you have any future plans in the region beyond this pop-up?
JJ: I couldn’t agree more. I’ve always said the Middle East should be one of our biggest markets. There’s a real affinity between our brand, Italy, and the Middle East in terms of the boldness and willingness to wear color and be seen. I’m sure the weather has something to do with it. The sun itself is a transmitter of this high frequency, high vibration energy. And of course, the people themselves are so joyful. I’ve encountered so much exuberance of style and personality in the Middle East, which I love.
It’s my great hope to have a lot of expansion in this market. Right now, we’re also present in Bloomingdales Kuwait, Dubai and Saudi Arabia and we’re really looking forward to stretching our wings further. My dream is to someday open up my own cafe or hotel there. We just redesigned the pool and bar area of Lake Como’s new luxury hotel, Villa Passalacqua, and I’m itching to explore that more.
JJ Martin’s LaDoubleJ is available in Harvey Nichols at Mall of the Emirates. Click here for more information.