Why Grace Kelly’s Granddaughter Pauline Ducruet Is Determined To Redefine What It Means To Be Iconic On Her Own Terms

“My vision was to take traditional eveningwear and tone it down. My personality is more edgy so I wanted to provide women like me with more contemporary options to fit their personalities”

The Belle-Époque surroundings of Hôtel Hermitage in Monte-Carlo have long been a rarefied backdrop for royalty in taffeta gowns and opera gloves, but today, all that’s about to change. Dressed in louche, luxury, genderless tailoring, Pauline Ducruet – founder and designer of the socially responsible, non-binary fashion brand Alter – is seeking to revolutionise the new formal, and speak to her own generation.

“We wanted to show Alter in a setting never seen before,” Pauline reveals. “Alter started out as street style and underground but now we wanted to go for luxurious looks,” she explains of her latest collection. “My vision was to take traditional eveningwear and tone it down. My personality is more edgy so I wanted to provide women like me with more contemporary options to fit their personalities,” she continues.

Blazer, Dhs2,860; Trousers, Dhs1,540, both Alter by Pauline Ducruet. Shoes, POA; Necklace, POA, both Versace Location: Casino de Monte-Carlo

With her strong-shouldered suiting, power brow and slicked- back, wet-look hair, there’s no mistaking the daughter of Princess Stéphanie of Monaco. While most girls grow up idolising their mothers as style icons, Pauline was raised by a global fashion phenomenon. “I grew up knowing the impact she has,” she recalls. “She would always dress up to go to galas and events so I always had an understanding, but now as a woman, I can see the vision she had. And now that ’80s fashion is back, I can see her influence on fashion till this day.”

Pauline led a charmed childhood in what she describes as the “little bubble of light” that is Monaco, but it was more bohemian than you imagine, after Princess Stéphanie whisked her away to join a travelling circus in Switzerland when she was six. She explains, “My mum was always really free about her choices and what she wanted for us, and at that moment she wanted to give us different views on growing up outside of Monaco to protect us and give us another vision of life.”

Blazer, Dhs2,860; Trousers, Dhs1,540, both Alter by Pauline Ducruet. Shoes, POA, Christian Louboutin. Ring, Dhs61,800; Ring, POA, both Repossi. Location: Casino de Monte-Carlo

Despite their startling resemblance, according to Pauline, the ways they differ are due to the zeitgeist. “Our similarities would be the cause that we defend and the difference would be the time that we are doing it. In the ’80s, there was less awareness of eco-friendly fashion and non-binary issues. I’m sure if there was, she would’ve done the same, since she taught me the values I have and to fight for the causes I believe in.”

Top, Dhs5,970; Skirt, Dhs8,260; Shoes, Dhs3,160, all Alaïa. Location: Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo

Sadly, Princess Grace of Monaco died before she was born, but Pauline has a unique takeaway from the Hollywood starlet’s style-goddess status. “Obviously, she is my grandmother, and she’s extremely iconic to the fashion world, so everything comes back to her, but just like my mum, I want to have my own input into my brand and what I do, and like my mum was iconic in her time, and my grandmother was iconic in her time, I’m trying to do iconic work right now.”

That said, she still proudly carries the Hermès bag that bears her grandmother’s name. “I actually only have two Kelly bags,” she admits, “one I share with my mum and another from my mum as it’s a tradition for every girl in our family to get a Kelly bag of her own on her 21st birthday.”

Blazer, POA, Versace. Trousers, Dhs1,540, Alter by Pauline Ducruet. Shoes, Dhs2,700, Roger Vivier. Earcuff, Dhs74,400; Ring, Dhs57,900; Ring, POA, all Repossi. Location: Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo

However, rather than capitalising on her family name, the 16th in line to the throne chose a play on words to name her brand, which started as a project while she was studying at Parsons School of Design in New York. “Alter started out as Altered as it stood for altering classic pieces, and then it became Alter for alter ego, alternative meaning non- binary and altered as I’m still altering classic pieces,” she muses.

The results are as striking as they are socially conscious – annual collections replete with inclusive, insouciant silhouettes for 24-hour dressing fashioned from salvaged denim and a considered mix of silk and wool, made ethically in Bagnolet, just outside Paris.

Dress, POA, Louis Vuitton. Trousers, Dhs1,980, Alter by Pauline Ducruet. Location: Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo

“I believe all the new brands should leave a social and eco-friendly impact on the environment. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries and it’s time to do something about it.” Elaborating how she strives to make her label ethical, Pauline continues, “It’s all in the sourcing of the material, it’s locally made next to Paris, the packaging is plastic-free and ethical, the people I work with in terms of photographers or stylists I try to choose under-represented communities or activists in eco- responsibility. In every step, I try to have a positive impact.”

Shirt, Dhs1,980, Alter by Pauline Ducruet. Skirt, POA, Dice Kayek. Boots, Dhs5,300, Roger Vivier. Earrings, POA, Versace. Location: Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo

Alter designs are deliberately over-sized to fit all identities, in stark contrast to the nipped-in waists and swishy skirts of ’50s femininity that Grace Kelly so elegantly and iconically imbued. Could this be her way of rebelling? “I wouldn’t say it’s a rebellion,” she considers carefully, “it’s just my way of addressing my aesthetic and the values that I’m defending. Creating innovative feminine silhouettes with denim and silk at the beginning wasn’t conscious, but now that I know what represents Alter, I’m really working towards it more obviously.”

Pyjama Set, Dhs5,685, Dundas. Bracelet, Dhs1,156,400; Necklace, Dhs787,700, both Repossi. Location: Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo

She acknowledges, “Definitely, as the eye is more on me than any other young designer, I have to prove myself to show the world I am a talented young designer. I’m so thankful to have eyes on me but I have to prove it’s because of my talent and not because of where I come from.” As a third-generation style icon establishing her own fashion label, Pauline treads a delicate tightrope, but does so with all the grace you might expect. She grew up at the circus, after all.

Photography: Rosaline Shahnavaz. Creative Director: Kristine Kilty. Hair: Yannick Delort at Hair Spa Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. Make-Up: Meyloo at B-Agency. PR, Production and Management: Style Lab

Shot exclusively for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia at Casino de Monte-Carlo, Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo. With special thanks to Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer, Gouvernement Princier de Monaco and Monaco Government Tourism office

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s May 2021 issue