Escape to AlUla: Back To The Future
With AlUla capturing our collective imaginations, Bazaar Arabia bring you on a journey into the unspoilt Saudi Arabian destination…
Seventeen thousand candles flicker, casting atmospheric light through the alleyways and rooms of the just-unveiled Dar Tantora AlUla Heritage Hotel. And just like that, you’re transported to a distant time, when you could hear the muezzin’s call through the silence, and sunrise and sunset, gauged through the ‘tantora’ or central sundial, guided the course of your day. We’re relaxed on sofas, some taking to the floor cross-legged, sipping mint tea as the rawi – a knowledgeable local guide — weaving a magical story, telling us of the once bustling neighbourhood that has now been transformed – and beautifully preserved – into this 30-room boutique property, in the heart of the Old Town.
The following morning we are treated to freshly-made, paper-thin bread made on the tandoor by the last-resident of the area, who relocated down the road in 1980 in search of modernity. Seeing how her previous home or dar, has been painstakingly converted into a space that others are excited to visit fills her with pride, she tells us. There are memories at every corner, with the soul of the structure maintained within its mud-brick walls, yet five-star comfort factored in for the discerning, educated traveller looking for an immersive stay.
Looking Back, Looking Forward
Everything about AlUla is a wondrous dichotomy. The ancient desert landscape, with its sunset shades spread across soaring canyons, plays host to striking contemporary structures like the mirrored-facade of the Maraya concert hall, and contemporary site-specific art installations. UNESCO World Heritage Site Hegra’s Nabataean 110 uncovered tombs evoke ancient rituals as international restaurants like Entrecôte Café de Paris unexpectedly pop-up in the 1,000-year-old Old Town’s main square.
Dar Tantora also conforms to this intoxicating mix. You get picked up from the airport in one of a fleet of vintage luxury cars; our grand Rolls-Royce set expectations high from the offset, and they were met every second. Sustainability is a central tenant of every aspect of the hotel. And once you get used to not having harsh electric lights glaring, you settle into a comfortable pace with the pared-down elegance that the space offers – while not forgoing any of the high-end 21st century perks expected. Put away your phone, and take in the moment as candles are lit between asr and maghrib, with oud and bahkoor’s wafting scent filling the courtyard.
Room to Relax
Sprawling rooms and suites lead off corridors, with huge comfortable beds and beautifully appointed bathrooms luring you away from the private terrace that’s ideal for taking in a morning coffee. One discrete plug provides power to charge electronics, but you are encouraged to go without despite there being wi-fi throughout. Instead explore the surroundings or lounge by the Instagrammable pool that offers a literal window, framing the mountains and oasis just infront. A walk through the green Heritage Oasis Trail, minutes away by car, where farm-to-table produce is championed and botanical gardens flourish thanks to ancient qanat irrigation techniques, is a highlight that cannot be missed.
Every aspect of your stay immerses you into the local way of life. Feasts were laid out from morning to dusk at the hotel. Expect elevated Arabic cuisine devised by chef Juame Puigdenglos at main eatery Joontos, with produce from the oasis; at night fairy lights twinkle, while by day the open-air terraces offers a cool breeze that is ideal for alfresco dining.
Breakfast is a sumptuous delight; from eggs Benedict to pancakes with sticky honey, crisp croissants to fresh fruit, cheeses and zaatar-topped saj, every eastern and western morning whim is satiated. Don’t forget to ask for a strong Arab coffee; made infront of you in a traditional manner, the caffeine hit will set you up perfectly for the day.
Great Expectations
Aside from aesthetics, and its central eco-conservation tenets, what makes this property so special is the staff – our morning coffee ritual was quickly clocked, and a steaming café latte was brought to the room at 8am every subsequent day, no prompting required.
Guests looking to rejuvenate and unwind were offered in-room massages, and astonishing stargazing sessions in the Gharameel desert with astrological experts who pointed out the shimmering Milky Way in the pollution-free, constellation-filled sky with comfortable cushions, blankets and a bonfire adding to the atmosphere. Those keen on an adrenalin-rush were quickly equipped with itineraries that ticked their every exploratory whim. From Adventure Park’s zip-line thrills, to via ferreta climbs through the rocky terrain, and open-air vintage Range Rover tours of Desert X, plus a sunrise hot air balloon ride that gives you a unique vantage over the surroundings, you can pack in as much – or as little – as you’d like into your trip.
There are so many destinations that are deemed ‘bucket list’; in the case of AlUla, it is well deserved. Believe the hype; it is unspoilt, beautifully preserved and attracts travellers looking for the authenticity, yet luxury, that it so perfectly provides.
For more information, visit dartantora.co
Images supplied.
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s April 2024 issue