From Venice to Paris With Love: Railway Romance Is Alive And Well Aboard The Venice-Simplon Orient Express

Climb aboard a time capsule that transports you to the golden age of travel

They say you should never meet your heroes, as it’s bound to be a disappointment. You should never go back to places you were enchanted by before as the sheen might have worn off. And you should never tick off bucket-list experiences because the sheer weight of expectation will ensure you won’t get the fairytale storyline you’re anticipating.

When it comes to travel, The Venice-Simplon Orient Express has mythic status. It is the journey you save for, the one you mark for a special occasion, the one that you pick the perfect partner to share. It’s a milestone adventure, one that’s become a part of literary tropes thanks to the mysteries of Agatha Christie, eulogised in movies – and embarked upon by celebrities like Angelina Jolie, the Beckhams, and Kate Moss. It was the equivalent of taking a private jet prior to planes. And, yes, it lives up to all the hype.

Bring your jewels and gowns: this is the ultimate backdrop for your main character moment. You’ll feel the frisson of excitement from the moment you’re picked up – by speedboat – from your Venice hotel and ushered to the platform at Santa Lucia Station. Secure your leading lady role as you step aboard the gleaming, intricately restored Wagon-Lits carriages of this iconic train, that’s once again reached the same status it had during its zenith between WWI and WWII, after Belmond’s James Sherman bought his first two carriages in 1977 at an auction in Monte-Carlo and restored them to their former glory using historic timber that accentuates Rene Prou’s art deco marquetry.

What is there actually to do on board? Very little – and that’s the point. It’s time to disconnect from the outside world and take in every moment. Looking for a distraction? Head to the Bar Car 3674 where you can conjure up evocative back stories for your fellow passengers, who’ll range from American couples celebrating anniversaries to British friends marking a birthday – and during our trip, a Bahraini team who decided to book the coveted Grand Suite spur of the moment. This is possibly the most popular space on the train, so get there early to secure your spot, and once there, stay ensconced as the pianist tickles the ivories and takes popular requests. Everything feels all right in the world once you hear “Fly Me To The Moon” while sipping an aperitif.

There’s also the opportunity to shop at the carefully curated on-board boutique, filled with jewellery and keepsakes you can pick up as mementos.

But really, the voyage is all about taking a step back, picking up a book, and spending quality time with either yourself or your partner-in-train-travel as you marvel at the sheer old-school extravagance and retro glamour that surrounds you at every stage of the journey.

Gastronomy lies at the centre of the trip, with the 24-hours you spend aboard this particular route revolving around culinary indulgence. Soon after boarding, you’re allocated one of two slots for a three-course lunch and four-course dinner, which take place in one of three dining carriages – Cote d’Azur, Etoile du Nord, and L’Oriental. Those who’ve done their research opt for one for their first meal, and another for their second as though the food served in both may be the same, the atmosphere and décor are completely different. Your spaces are reserved by the maître d’ for each service, with the leisurely lunch followed by light tea-time treats served back in your cabin, and then dinner, which is a three-hour degustation affair, at either 6 pm or 9 pm.

This is aimed at traditionalists, with the best ingredients picked up at every stop. Think slivers of smoked Scottish salmon with horseradish cream atop delicate toast, scallops with coconut-flavoured butter, or sautéed foie gras with thick brioche and a fruit compote. Even if you think you aren’t one for age-old recipes, you’ll be converted, and the most vociferous of appetites will be satiated. If you only eat halal, there are a wealth of fish or vegetarian choices that’ll satiate. End with a decadent Gianduja chocolate tart with vanilla custard or Amalfi lemon cake–and there’s always a cheeseboard to discover, before petite fours and coffee.

It is said that you can never be overdressed for the Venice-Simplon Orient Express, and that’s undeniably the case. Tuxedoes for the gents, and floor-length black tie gowns or sequinned cocktail dresses for ladies are standard at evening, while the daytime ‘smart casual’ code can be interpreted in a multitude of ways, from twinsets to summer dresses with corsages, though jeans and trainers aren’t allowed. Travel [very] light. There is very little room in the cabins so a holdall or small airplane suitcase is ideal. You can also take one larger suitcase, which is stored in the luggage car, but you do not have access to this till you reach your destination.

You’ll return from dinner to a completely transformed cabin. Your cabin steward would have changed the daytime seating arrangements into a luxurious bunk (if you’re traveling as a twosome, or a single bed if you’re solo) – complete with slippers and a nightgown.

Freshen up in your in-room vanity that has a leather overnight kit with every amenity you could desire, before slinking into the crisp linens, with the gentle rocking of the train soothing you to sleep.

And what could be more special than waking up to breakfast in bed? Your butler will bring a decadent tray of flaky patisserie, freshly squeezed orange juice, and piping hot coffee, as you gaze out of the window, and watch the French countryside come into view before you disembark at Paris Gare de l’Est.

For more information visit: belmond.com/trains

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s June 2023 Issue.