Surprising Sardinia: The Laid-Back Luxury Spot That Needs To Be On Your Radar | The Escape
Journeying south. Natasha Faruque visits the Conrad Chia Laguna Resort & Spa, where she discovers a very different side of the island
Oozing A-list and royal pedigree, Sardina evokes images of tanned celebrities like Emily Ratajowski, George Clooney and Beyoncé reclining on yachts by day, while dancing on tables at Porto Cervo’s Billionaire by night. But Sardinian insider and native Alessandro Michele smiled when he heard where we were staying, saying Chia Bay was one of the most serene, beautiful areas to explore on the island. And a very different proposition from the stereotypical tropes you spot on social media.
The glitzy north? Been there, done that. And I balked at the thought of handing my three-year-old a 30 euro slice at the aptly named Crazy Pizza. I didn’t think she’d appreciate what she was nibbling on, surrounded by bona fide billionaires. Yet, I didn’t want to give up that five-star status – or swap out Sardinia from my travel list – just because I was vacationing tot in tow.
The answer? Holiday like the upper-crust Italians and explore the more discrete south of the island. And, when the electric gates opened at the Conrad Chia Laguna, giving us a glimpse of manicured lawns and cool taupe and white hues, as a breeze brought in scents of wildflower, rosemary and thyme, we realised we’d cottoned on to a bit of an insider secret.
LAID-BACK LUXE
The resort is a completely different proposition when it comes to luxury properties. Frequented by chic mainlanders looking for seaside lounging and an escape from the searing summer heat, it comes complete with Italian idiosyncrasies and quirks – the late 9pm start for the children’s entertainment meant we snoozed through every showing – but all the charm and comfort you’d expect from the country that taught the world a treasure trove of tips on high-end living.
One of three interconnected hotels that sit within the area, the Conrad is located at the pinnacle both literally – it is perched on top of the hill – and figuratively when it comes to its offering. Seemingly carved out of the land, natural stone adds accent at every turn while a gentle archeological theme nods to nearby sightseeing. Newly spruced up, light-filled rooms are decked out in neutral shades, and if you’re lucky your terrace will not only overlook the Unesco protected Monte Cogoni Beach – one of two pristine beaches that guests can access – but flocks of pink flamingos in the picturesque pond.
Although guests can take advantage of all the facilities of Chia Village, and the Baia di Chia Curio Collection by Hilton, the Conrad offers the most polished and exclusive package. From its sleek private pool featuring the Bioaquam restaurant, dishing out feather-light carpaccio and salads to its lounge area with nightly musical entertainment, and speedy buggy service that’ll whisk you between restaurants, resorts and beaches, your every Mediterraneanaccented whim is satiated. And if you, like us, feel envious about the kids’ menu pesto-topped al dente pasta, they’ll rustle up a large parmesan-sprinkled portion of that for you too.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
It turns out Sardinian cuisine puts the spotlight on fruits de mer, with pescatarian delights replacing the usual pizza or pasta that visitors to the country anticipate. The open kitchen at La Terrazza vies for attention with sweeping, bougainvillea-accented views, while San Mesa is set in an olive grove, bringing traditional recipes to the fore.
I was once told that you know you are officially grown-up when you drag yourself out of a comfortable hotel bed to make it in time to the resort’s restaurant for breakfast. I’m not sure what category we fall into given that we were there just after sunrise, as the sumptuous buffet was revealed. The cappuccino on its own was worth eschewing the snooze button. Then there are the tables upon tables of fresh produce – from fresh ricotta to local yogurt, sticky fragrant honeycomb and an abundance of patisserie and breads sat alongside cold cuts, cereals and fruits. Egg dishes of every variety and fresh fluffy pancakes and waffles, are conjured up in the open kitchen to order while you can help yourself to endless options for sides that’ll tempt even those who proclaim they aren’t morning eaters. There are yet more dining options that flank the main square at Chia Village, a few steps away from the property. From a popular pizzeria to Asian dining, international buffets and ice-cream parlours, there’s plenty to satiate every craving.
ISLAND HOPPING
Need to pack your getaway with sightseeing? There’s plenty to fit in. Whether you want to amble through the alleyways of charming Pula town, explore the archeological ruins of Nora, the island’s oldest Phoenician village, or feast on innovative Michelin-starred cuisine under the stars at Fradis Minoris Ristorante.
One excursion that you need to put on your bucket list is a trip to the Zuddas Grotto. Journey underground into naturally carved caves, accented with aragonite crystals, stalactites and helictites. Finish your trip with freshly made lemon ricotta ravioli at the trattoria outside.
RARING TO RETURN
The friendly all-day kids club ensured there was an action-packed itinerary if you were looking to offload your brood for grown-up time too. And even though you’ll spot tanned couples relaxing by the turquoise waters of Dune di Campana beach, or enjoying aperitivo taking in vistas on the terrace at sunset, the inclusive, refined yet relaxed atmosphere, ensured everyone felt right at home – three-year-olds included.
D.H. Lawrence wrote, “This land resembles no other place. Sardinia is something else. Enchanting spaces and distances to travel – nothing finished, nothing definitive. It is like freedom itself.” I couldn’t agree more. We were so enchanted by our stay that before leaving the south of the island, the plotting had begun on when we could return.