Why Thailand’s Amanpuri Is The Ultimate Beachcation Everyone Needs To Visit

When the resort and not the location becomes the desired destination, that’s the sign of true excellence. Amanpuri has been proving that for the past 35 years

We landed in Phuket amid flash floods, non-stop rain and weather warnings. A complete anomaly, but that wasn’t much comfort given we had anticipated a sunfilled jaunt to a beach paradise. I had envisaged this trip as a revisiting of an island I used to celebrate milestones at on an annual basis when I was young and carefree, and although this promised to be a very different excursion, with my mother and three-year-old in tow, at the very least I expected the weather to be a constant.

How could Amanpuri – a resort where I spotted my first A-list celebrity, Kate Moss, celebrating New Years on the beach in the moonlight – make up for the loss of sunshine? Surely its setting, perched on a lush cliff, encircling a private lagoon on the Andaman Sea with multiple swimming pools, screamed ray-soaked al fresco beach holiday?

When all goes according to plan, with cloudless skies, pristine sand and Instagram-worthy settings, it’s easy to have a good break. Bathed in golden light, you shrug away transgressions, ignore niggles, forgive forgetful service. But when circumstances aren’t 100 per cent to your liking, you’re bound to be less forgiving, automatically looking for fault. And, it is therefore completely astounding, and a credit to the famed resort and it’s warm, seemingly instinctively perceptive staff, that we still had the perfect vacation.

What makes an Aman so special? Why do we wear our Aman Junkie T-shirts, gained after five stays at their hotels, with such pride? It’s the little touches that you won’t see at even the most luxurious spots. Like, there are no bills to sign – everything gets automatically charged to your room, never with any discrepancies. Everyone knows who you are, and after one order, you are greeted at breakfast with your regular soy latte, or your child is brought pencils and unicorn-themed colouring paper no matter which restaurant you decide to eat at. Turndown at night includes a small gift; it could be anything from beautifully woven sunhats to a carved tuk-tuk keepsake or a revitalising Aman-branded spray mist. Even if the resort is full, you never feel crowded – there’s always a sense of seclusion. All the staff seem to know your preferences, replenishing the free mini-bar with more of the items you like, topping up the lemongrass cashew nuts, dried mango and daily snacks without you even noticing they’ve been in the room to plump your pillows and neaten your unruly phone chords with a chic clasp.

The Amanpuri – the name means ‘peace’ in Sanskrit – exceeds sky-high expectations and more than lives up to its moniker from the moment you are whisked away from the frenetic energy of Phuket airport and ensconced in its luxurious private transfer, with chilled Evian and scented towels.

A cut above

And that’s just the start. Those who think of themselves as high-end travel specialists, who have a destination wish-list to tick off, almost always have this particular Aman property at the top. The fact that this hotel, designed by master architect Ed Tuttle and opened in 1988, is more than 30 years old and is still considered to showcase the ultimate in hospitality is unprecedented. An annual month-long closure and overhaul – also unheard of in the industry – ensures that all updates can be made quickly and efficiently, so the resort never dates.

Serene, understated and at one with nature. Those are the cornerstones of this property’s design. There is a minimal aesthetic, yet it simultaneously has a warmth that is often missing from such spaces. The fact that the iconic pool – your first view of the property once you’ve entered the private gates and stepped through a lacquered pavilion – was built around the towering palms that flank it, when felling them would have been simpler, encapsulates its entire ethos.

Rooms with a view

Teakwood accommodation spread out over a slope so if you don’t fancy taking the walkways, speedy customised Mitsubishi shuttles escort you wherever you wish to go. Standalone pavilions, surrounded by tropical foliage, dot the property – Middle Eastern travelers who value complete privacy will find it worth splurging that little extra and opting for one of the rooms with its own pool.

The spacious layouts of the pavilions mean you are loathe to leave – from the oversized beds with iPad control panels, to the huge bathroom, with two vanities, a sunken tub, shower cubicle and tremendous cupboard and luggage space. Woven beach bags, sun hats, bedroom slippers and flip-flops plus chic beige robes – which we purchased to take home – are also provided.

A resort might be breathtaking, but your holiday will only be complete if your excursions meet the same lofty standards. Amanpuri’s curated suggestions showed a respect for conservation – they guided us towards the only ethical elephant sanctuary on the island, steering us away from touristy encounters – as well as an understanding of their guests’ needs. Other special trips out included blessing and alms-giving at dawn at a local temple, as well as a stop at an artisanal hub.

Step outside onto your deck and you have a traditional Thai sala where you can enjoy meals al fresco – you’ll find yourself reaching for the room service button regularly – or relax on the comfy loungers that lull you to sleep as you hear birdsong all around you.

Stepping out and staying in

Despite being one who loves to explore, I found myself reluctant to leave the premises. With a lagoon-like beach that you get to from a dramatic staircase, regular on-site activities like mocktail making or yoga, plus the promise of one of the best spas in Asia (plenty book wellness-centred programmes that feature everything from specialised diets to Coolsculpting and IV infusions alongside soothing massages during their visit), there was plenty to do within Amanpuri’s elegant walls. A special mention must also go to the kids’ club, which sat alongside a specially designed pool for little ones. Its full days of fun combined arts and crafts with relaxed movie nights, cupcake decorating and walks to collect shells and chat about marine life scuttling about on the sand.

Food for thought

We spent most of our meals firmly ensconced in the main restaurant, Buabok, which focuses on Southern Thai recipes, served alongside all-day hotel dining staples. An added advantage? Off-menu ordering was met with a quick nod, with the chef able to rustle up something delicious at short notice. The tangy soft shell crab mango salad and stir-fried crab noodles were crowd-pleasers for all ages.

Other options include Japanese Nama, with an emphasis on washoku raw cuisine – think simple, elegantly crafted sashimi and sushi, while Arva takes you on an elevated journey through Italy, with seasonality at its core.

The culinary highlight of our stay was the daily Thaithemed afternoon tea that’s complimentary to all guests of the resort. Served under a pavilion alongside the pool, wicker baskets brimming with exotic fruit, cakes, coconut-jellies and freshly made mini pancakes filled with everything from chocolate chips to bananas were beautifully presented alongside fresh lemongrass iced-tea or strong coffees.

A league of its own

It’s rare that people book a hotel rather than a location. But in this case, this resort on the West Coast of Phuket, arguably the best on this very popular island, has become the destination. You feel a genuine sadness when you realise you must leave this cosseted environment and head back to the real world.

“But I want to live here,” wailed my daughter as she clutched her toy tuk-tuk on our departure. And even though I sternly shushed her, I secretly agreed.

For more information, visit aman.com.

Passport To Style

Holiday fashion designed to move with ease and just a bit of attitude

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s February 2023 Issue