Highlights From The Autumn/Winter 2023 Shows
Every collection you need to see, from New York to London, Milan and Paris
The autumn/winter 2023 ready-to-wear catwalk season has finally wrapped, with hundreds of shows taking place over the past month in New York, London, Milan and Paris. We have seen designer debuts, heartwarming tributes and plenty of catwalk drama.
Below, we have rounded up everything you need to see from the shows this season, from the major A-list model moments on the catwalk to the most beautiful collections. From Marc Jacobs’ ode to Vivienne Westwood to Givenchy’s “new elegance” and Simone Rocha’s harvest-inspired collection, we present the catwalk highlights from the autumn/winter 2023 season.
If you want to delve deeper into the new collections, you can discover designer interviews and much more in our fashion week cheat sheets here.
With thanks to Mercedes Benz UK
Miu Miu
It was the final major show of fashion month, and Miuccia Prada made sure to go out with a bang. The designer presented a predictably fun collection, one which was complete with a trio of colourful, bejewelled knickers, one pair worn by actor Emma Corrin, who closed the show.
The bedazzled underwear was paired with polo-neck cashmere knits, tights and heels, and will no doubt be the next cult Miu Miu purchase (following on from those mini skirts, which a few seasons on are still being discussed). There was also plenty of mismatched layering, and some geek-chic cardigans, tailoring and polka dots, but with a twist – much of it was sheer or styled with oversized hoodies or knitted knickers.
Trend takeaways: Sparkly knickers and sheer midi skirts
Chanel
The final day of Paris Fashion Week always calls for a beautiful Chanel show – and this one was all about the camellia, a flower that has served as a point of inspiration for the house for many years (it is said to have been Coco’s favourite). A giant installation of the flower was erected in the middle of the catwalk, while the clothes were filled with floral details, as well as lots of lace, mismatched tweed, vinyl, feathers, pearls and chunky boots.
“The camellia is more than a theme, it’s an eternal code of the house. I find it reassuring and familiar, I like its softness and its strength,” said creative director Virginie Viard.
Trend takeaways: Layering and lace
Louis Vuitton
When deciding what to do with his latest collection for Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière considered the enigma and endless fascination surrounding the question: ‘What is French style?’ But, this wasn’t necessarily a question that he wanted to answer with the collection. Instead, he wanted to explore its many avenues and possibilities, and leave others to draw their own conclusions.
“I’m deliberately leaving the question open,” he told press backstage after the show. “Now that we’ve started travelling again, it is a question that often comes up abroad. It’s still a very present fantasy. French fashion is informed by many cultures. In fact, that is what makes it so special and exemplary.”
Ghesquière explored these many influences on French style, presenting a collection which he described as “classicism with a twist” – nodding to the tradition and the rich history that informs French fashion, but with a little wink. Read more here.
Trend takeaways: Skinny waist belts and lots of layering
Balenciaga
After the uproar that was caused by two of the house’s campaigns late last year, creative director Demna used this collection, and this fashion show, to start a new chapter at Balenciaga, one which he says is entirely about the clothes.
The comeback show was staged in a minimalistic space to further this message – he wants to step away from the performative nature of fashion and focus on the craft, forgoing the celebrity-filled front rows and extremely over-the-top show settings that we have seen from him in the past (which have featured models trudging through mud, water and even walking through a fake blizzard). In the collection, it was a pared-back version of his aesthetic. He presented tailoring, strong-shouldered dresses and glitzy gowns, and there was not a logo in sight.
Trend takeaways: Puffy shoulders and floor-skimming coats
Vivienne Westwood
Andreas Kronthaler presented an emotional tribute to his late wife with a collection that was entirely inspired by her life’s work, and Westwood’s granddaughter, Cora Corré, closed the show, dressed in a bridal look.
In his show notes, Kronthaler addressed Westwood: “In everything we will show, I thought of you and where you came from, from the North of England. The petticoat skirts which were your absolute favourite. I’ve made some for you, all different, they’re gorgeous, so pretty, so girly, so woman, so really woman. I used some of our antique fabrics that we collected together to give them a new life, I hope you don’t mind. You once said to me that you can take everything away, just leave me my platform shoes because one can’t do without them. Maybe the most important thing you ever taught me was to put the woman on a pedestal.”
Trend takeaways: Platform boots and corsetry
Nina Ricci
It was a much-awaited debut for Harris Reed at Nina Ricci, who focused on colour, silhouette and inclusivity in his first collection for the storied fashion house.
Trend takeaway: Colourful tulle
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham presented on the Paris Fashion Week schedule for the second time on Friday afternoon, showing a collection which she said was “an homage to an experimental and unafraid approach to style”.
“Playing dress-up is an instinct that never fades. From children’s costume parties to the rebellious customisation of teenagers and what we come to define as styling, the impulse to transform ourselves through clothes is forever thrilling.” Beckham specifically took inspiration from Drew Barrymore’s character Edith Bouvier Beale from the 2009 film Grey Gardens, an image of which appeared on the show invite. “The unpredictable glamour characteristic of Little Edie’s approach to dressing up informs a collection founded in eclecticism observed through the sophisticated lens of modernity. It establishes the premise for an idiosyncratic proposal expressed in deconstruction, customisation and subversion.”
Trend takeaways: Mix and match textures and parent platform pumps
Loewe
Taking over the Château De Vincennes on the outskirts of Paris for Loewe’s autumn/winter 2023 show, Jonathan Anderson presented his latest collection, one which he described as: “an introverted stance that’s about silhouette, texture and the way materials react to light.” He presented clothing – including trenches, belts and floral frocks – that was printed and faded onto dresses. “Playing with blur as a way to stress that fashion, rather than being about the moment, is about the later. About putting into focus what may seem unclear right now.” Silky, slinky gowns, feathered co-ords and slouchy boots also dominated on the catwalk.
Trend takeaways: Floaty silk dresses
Givenchy
Autumn/Winter 2023 was all about a “new elegance” for Matthew M. Williams, who drew on founder Hubert de Givenchy’s sophisticated and classic silhouettes, but gave them a modern twist, balancing out the new with the old, informed by the past, but adapted for the present. “The premise manifests in a demonstration of the codes that seduce a modern-day wardrobe mentality: a proposition expressed in confidence, comfort and empowerment,” he explained. He took strong-shouldered tailoring, and turned these coats into mini dresses; let American sportswear inform relaxed eveningwear silhouettes; and styled some of the most iconic Givenchy pieces in unexpected and modern ways. See more from the collection here.
Trend takeaways: Wraparound sunglasses, leather gloves and relaxed, floaty eveningwear
Chloé
For a few seasons now, Gabriela Hearst has structured her Chloé collections into chapters, each dedicated to a pioneering climate solution. Autumn/Winter 2023 focused on the need to see women in roles of leadership and power within the realm of climate change. Hearst explored what she described as: “the imperative need for women’s stories and their contributions to society — too often overlooked or suppressed — to be brought out of the shadows so they can play a leading role in the race to find climate solutions”.
She argues that we need “an almost Renaissance-like approach” to this problem, so this is where she looked for her point of inspiration: 17th-century Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, who overcame a range of societal and personal struggles to emerge as one of the most celebrated female artists of her time.
Trend takeaway: Monochrome dressing
Balmain
“This is a runway that’s directly inspired by the incredible silhouettes, signatures and patterns that we’ve pulled from our rich archives,” creative director Olivier Rousteing said of his AW23 collection, one which was purposefully presented in a more intimate setting, where he showed classics inspired by the house’s history.
“I’ll admit it: I doubt that anyone understands better than I the attention-grabbing power of fashion-festival fireworks and social-media teases,” said Rousteing, explaining that, instead of creating one of these viral moments, he wanted to shine a spotlight on the artisans and to celebrate “the enduring power and singular sustainability of timeless designs”.
“We’re aiming for timelessness, not time travel,” he added. “That’s one of the lessons that Pierre Balmain left behind for us….it’s imperative that collections reflect the modern needs and the distinctive tastes of each new generation. So, while this runway does celebrate our founder’s legendary New French Style, we continue to be just as inspired by the uniquely audacious, forward-looking and optimistic values of this house.”
Trend takeaways: Classic silhouettes and total glamour
Acne Studios
Acne’s autumn/winter 2023 collection was “rooted in nature, with futuristic views”. Models emerged from the darkness into a fantasy forest, which was complete with shimmering, sparkling trees, wearing pieces that nodded to both sci-fi and the earth.
“With this collection I was thinking about the dark winters we have in Sweden, where there are only a few hours of daylight,” creative director Jonny Johansson explained. “I wanted to capture the beauty of the darkness in both the collection and the set. Sweden is the kind of place where the city ends abruptly and then the pine forest begins. I’ve always enjoyed the contrast between urban life and nature; the idea that an infinite forest is just around the corner.”
Trend takeaway: Cut-outs
Paco Rabanne
Creative director Julien Dossena paid tribute to founder Paco Rabanne with the house’s latest collection. The designer – who sadly passed away just last month – left a great legacy behind him, and was known particularly for his space-age sequin chainmail dresses, many iterations of which came down the catwalk on Wednesday night.
In what he described as a “modern material awakening”, Dossena channelled the historic friendship between Rabanne and Salvador Dalí. “From women outfitted in contemporary armour to landscapes unbound by natural laws, they created parallel and, at times, overlapping worlds that were at once magical, mystic and mysterious.” Dossena featured four paintings from the artist on dresses, while Rabanne’s famous chainmail frocks made up a large proportion of the collection. “Spanning five decades, these dresses signal the innovative craftmanship that will always define the timeless and totemic women of Paco Rabanne.”
Trend takeaway: Metallic dressing
Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back to the 1950s for her newest collection, inspired by Dior’s history and the French style of three extraordinary women: Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco. “These three women shared an independent spirit that guided their choices,” a release from the brand explained. “Singular protagonists, each of them was able, through their lifestyle, to subvert feminine stereotypes that were part of the post-war mindset.” For Catherine, this was accomplished through her choice to grow and sell flowers as a message of hope; for Edith and Juliette it came via their voices and stage presence.
As such, Grazia Chiuri presented a Dior collection that felt both strong and delicate. Floral motifs originally designed by Christian Dior were reworked; fabrics were interwoven with metallic thread for a subtle shine; flared ’50s skirts were paired with ladylike heels, gloves and handbags – all set beneath an incredible looming fabric sculpture designed by the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. It all suggested “an emotional path to the new generations of women who are shaping our future”.
Trend takeaway: 1950s silhouettes and blurred florals
Cecilie Bahnsen
Autumn/Winter 2023 saw Cecilie Bahnsen explore colour in a way that she never has before. “We have traditionally focused on monochrome, everything in one colour. I wanted to open it up a little, stitch shades of pinks, work the colours together.”
Bahnsen brought various hues together on her trademark ethereal dresses. One was a mix of sky and cerulean blue; another in yellows blending sunflower to lemon pastel; a third in pinks from sorbet and rose to poppy red, blossom to magenta. And the fabric was patched and gathered so that, viewed from a certain angle, they looked like beautiful blooms.
Read the interview with Bahnsen about the collection here.
Trend takeaway: Delicate dresses paired with comfy shoes
Saint Laurent
For autumn/winter 2023, Anthony Vaccarello looked to the essence of classic Saint Laurent style – something he describes as “a potent mix of precision, emotion and reticence” – which he combined with his own codes. He aimed for it to be a take on fashion that was reflective of the current moment but simultaneously steeped in history.
Sharp-shouldered blazers, leather bomber jackets and tank tops were teamed with tailored pencil skirts and elegant court shoes. There was tartan, leather, pinstripes, cashmere trousers and beautiful wool coats. It was, as the designer described: “A classic Saint Laurent uniform to the present.”
Trend takeaways: A modern take on shoulder pads
Jil Sander
Think of Jil Sander and it is probably pared-back minimalist luxury which springs to mind. But, for autumn/winter 2023, husband-and-wife design duo Luke and Lucie Meier had a surprise in store for everybody. They presented a collection which was inspired by the music and culture of their formative years, the mid 1990s and early 2000s – and through this, they departed from the aesthetic that the Jil Sander brand has become synonymous with.
There were motorcycle jackets, giant motifs of cherries, zebra prints and space-age accessories – there was lots of colour and plenty of texture. And, while elements of it felt very new for the label, the silhouettes and exquisite attention to detail were very indicative of Jil Sander.
“A conversation about the time before we began working in design was the initial start to this collection,” creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier told us of AW23. “The mid-Nineties provided this backdrop, and the fondness we have for that moment is because of the openness and positivity. “
Trend takeaways: Futuristic leather, balaclavas and ankle-skimming knit dresses
Elisabetta Franchi
Giorgio Armani
This Armani collection was an ode to the house’s beauty line. Entitled ‘Cipria’, the nude colour palette took its inspiration from the brand’s foundation and powders, while one model even touched up her make-up at the end of the catwalk. “Maquillage is always an intimate, personal moment,” Giorgio Armani said in his show notes, of the art of applying one’s make-up, while he presented a collection that featured long silky dresses and co-ords that were designed to be as comfortable as pyjamas. He said he wanted to suggest “intimacy as an antidote to a moment of theatrical excess”.
Trend takeaways: Skirts and dresses over trousers
Bottega Veneta
“I loved the idea of the parade in Italy; a procession, a strange carnival, a crowd of people from anywhere and everywhere and yet somehow, they all fit and go in the same direction,” said Matthieu Blazy of the inspiration for his AW23 collection. “I wanted to look at what makes people gather together in a place without hierarchy, where everyone is invited.” In what was his final show in his ‘Italia’ trilogy, Blazy wanted to “celebrate and conflate the past, present and future of the country with craft in motion”. He presented a collection that was full of texture and unique silhouettes.
Trend takeaways: Ruched dresses and mismatched textures
Dolce & Gabbana
After collaborating on an archive-inspired collection with reality star Kim Kardashian last season, Dolce & Gabbana continued on this journey of finding inspiration in its history. “Working with Kim helped us to go back to our heritage, our memories, what we did in the past,” Domenico Dolce told press backstage. “And to analyse what we did. Social media exaggerated everything. Now, everything has to be strange – too much. I want to go back to what we really are.”
Trend takeaways: Sheer dressing, red, black and gold
Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis continues to excite at Ferragamo, where the young designer is transforming the house with his vision. This season, he sought inspiration in the brand’s history once again, and in its relationship with Hollywood.
“It’s how Ferragamo started, making shoes for films in the 1930s, and that grew into building relationships with movie stars like Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s,” Davis explains. “I was interested in using their glamour and beauty, and their way of dressing, as a reference, but looking at how we could make it feel modern for today.”
Read more about the standout collection here.
Trend takeaway: Clean-cut minimalism
Gucci
It was a unique show for Gucci with the house presenting between creative directors, showing a collection that was designed by the in-house team – but it was still one which made headlines, and this was mostly because it did feel like a departure from Alessandro Michele’s maximalist designs. Teeny, tiny bikinis, lingerie dressing, lots of leather and plenty of red lace all featured, proving to be quite a different Gucci than we have come to expect. In September, the house’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno will present his vision for the house, and only time will tell how he may interpret its history.
Trend takeaways: Visible lingerie
Sportmax
Moschino
Prada
“Reality is rich,” says Miuccia Prada. “Real life is much more rich than any fantasy. And therefore more important.”
This was the starting point for Muiccia Prada and Raf Simons this season, who looked for inspiration in real life, the beauty in the every day. Mostly, they found inspiration in the uniforms of those who spend their lives caring for others. They named the collection ‘Taking Care’, and elevated elements of uniforms into the designs, rediscovering idea of beauty itself.
They opened up a conversation between what we might think of as special or glamorous clothing, and then what is seen as day-to-day wear, that which is usually not as considered. They merged elements of one with the other: “This exchange, between the notion of the everyday and occasion wear, the familiar and the exceptional, gives a different importance to both.” Discover more here.
Trend takeaways: Utilitarian greys and statement skirts
Max Mara
Entitled ‘The Camelocracy’, Max Mara’s autumn/winter 2023 collection was an ode to female French philosopher Émilie du Châtelet and other notable women of the “turbulent, tumultuous” Eighteenth Century. “Nearly three hundred years later, her gender is no longer considered to be at odds with her talent,” he explains. “She was one of an army of women whose wit and intellect were instrumental in producing that change.”
Griffiths found plenty of relevance in the Eighteenth Century, and similarities to our present day, while he found inspiration in the apotropaic fashion of the day, the glamorous capes seen in Eighteenth-Century portraits, and the way in which women like du Châtelet dressed as men to be taken seriously.
Read our interview with Ian Griffiths here.
Trend takeaways: Obi belts and leather gloves
Alberta Ferretti
This season, Alberta Ferretti said that she continued to be inspired by “the richness and complexity of female psychology”, presenting a collection that felt elegant and romantic, but more toned-down than we sometimes see from the designer. Nineties grey tailoring, long leather coats and velvet gowns came down the catwalk. Entitled ‘After Dark Blooms’, this collection was all about romance “in the most passionate sense of the term”.
Tend takeaway: Delicate lace paired with leather
Fendi
“It all started with Delfina,” Kim Jones said of his muse for the Fendi’s autumn/winter 2023 collection, referring to the personal style of the Fendi heiress and jewellery designer. He presented a collection of sophisticated pieces – beautiful grey tailoring, billowing trousers, pleated skirts, fluid floaty gowns with pops of pink – but they were given a twist in design, or styled in unexpected ways, bringing what he described as a “punk” edge to something chic and elegant.
Read more about the collection here.
Trend takeaways: Skirts over trousers
Burberry
It was the show that everyone was waiting for and, on Monday night, the fashion world finally got its chance to see what Daniel Lee had in store for Burberry. One thing is for certain: it wasn’t what anyone had predicted. The designer – who has taken the reins from Riccardo Tisci, and is best known for having revived Bottega Veneta – delivered a grungier take on Britishness than many were anticipating. There had been an expectation that Lee would lean into the heritage of the house, a theory backed up when we saw his first “creative expression” in the SS23 campaign, which featured an emphasis on legacy, a move to a more traditional Burberry logo, and the return of the Prorsum flag. But, when it came to his first collection, Lee clearly wanted to subvert expectations.
Instead of leaning too heavily on tradition, he reworked the house codes and icons – the Burberry check, saddle bags, Wellington boots, tartan kilts and of course, the trench coat – in unexpected ways, leading the brand into a new era – one which had a punk edge. Read more about it here.
Trend takeaways: Mismatched tartan, oversized trench coats and practical boots
Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead quoted David Lynch in her show notes this season as she explored the tension between the familiar and the surreal in his hit show Twin Peaks. “The more you throw black into colour, the more dreamy it gets. Black has depth.”
The collection brought together mid-century, suburban Americana and timeless sensibility with grungy Nineties flannel tailoring and sweaters. “The disturbing and the ordinary meld with an undercurrent of rebellious sensuality,” read the show notes. “A new sense of style, meeting the everyday with something more elevated and dream-like. Wonderful and strange.”
Trend takeaways: Checkered prints and knitwear
Roksanda
She is known best for her bold use of colour, but this season, Roksanda Ilincic played with volume and silhouette. Staging her autumn show at Claridge’s, the designer used artistic ultra-feminine formations of circular shapes throughout the collection, which she called “an intimate tribute to art, design and community”.
“Continuing the narrative of intimacy and excelled emotions, the collection reflects the importance of having one’s own path and equally the courage to execute it,” she said. “Inspired by the Japanese visual artist, Atsuko Tanaka – an important member of the post-war artistic movement Gutai, to which the artist was welcomed then rejected by the founder – the coexistence of fragility and strength are mirrored in the collections’ optimistic effervescence, dramatic radiance, and elegant sheerness celebrating the human tactility against the machine.”
Trend takeaway: Ice-cream colours
Nensi Dojaka
Nensi Dojaka’s “eternal inspiration” of the flower was the key motif in her autumn/winter 2023 collection. The designer is known for her delicate lingerie dresses, which this season were presented in purples, bright reds, black and in white. There was plenty of sheer dressing and crystal embellishments on the dresses, while she also played around with denim, jersey, tulle and glitter mesh.
The hero piece of the collection was undoubtedly the ‘snowdrop’ dress, which was completely sheer and had been crafted from cotton, pearls and Swarovski crystals, designed to mimic the effect of falling snow.
Trend takeaway: Naked dressing
Tove
London Fashion Week welcomed Tove for the very first time as the contemporary label staged its catwalk debut. Known for its pared-back and minimal designs (many of which have become huge hits on Instagram), designers Camille Perry and Holly Wright embraced a new chapter for their brand. Models wore slinky silk dresses, suiting, co-ords and statement outerwear in metallic hues, deep claret and buttermilk, all paired with floral earrings and backless loafers. It was sleek and sophisticated perfection.
Trend takeaway: Slinky silhouettes
SS Daley
Fresh off his big win at the Fashion Awards in December, SS Daley continued to excite the London Fashion Week crowds, this time with a collection that was an ode to ‘The Ninth Wave’ by Kate Bush, a song cycle part-inspired by Alfred Tennyson’s ‘The Coming of Arthur’. Daley explored the expansive world of water, and the lives lived upon it. Opening the show was none other than Sir Ian McKellen, with a reading of Tennyson, before a series of sailor-inspired designs came down the catwalk.
“Listening to ‘The Ninth Wave’ by Kate Bush, I found the whole universe in it,” Daley explained. “I do see clothes as music, and this feeling for the collection overtook me in a way that I couldn’t ignore. The pull of the water has led us to a fresh new world, one that’s about the confidence of being who I want to be.”
Trend takeaway: Ocean blues
JW Anderson
For autumn/winter 2023, Jonathan Anderson staged a show at the Roundhouse in Camden, presenting a collection that was a tribute to the Scottish dancer and choreographer Michael Clark. “Michael Clark is an incipit,” read Anderson’s show notes. “A starter, a white page, the agitator who defied the system, who threw a couple of glittery fingers in the face of the dominating culture and created another. Michael Clark is the landmark who prompted others to do the same.”
The designer directly referenced some of Clark’s stage costumes and emblazoned his name on a number of pieces, but Anderson also looked to his own archive for inspiration. “Fifteen years of JW Anderson are condensed here and now, redone and re-seen, mixed with Michael Clark imagery, memorabilia, even just the name and what it stands for.”
Trend takeaway: Distressed knitwear
Erdem
Erdem Moralıoğlu didn’t have to travel far and wide to find inspiration for his autumn/winter 2023 collection. In fact, the idea was waiting for him within his own home. When the designer, who lives in a Victorian house in Bloomsbury, started renovating, he discovered a whole host of secrets about the building’s former residents, and they became his muses for the new season.
“I felt there were so many stories within the walls,” Moralıoğlu told me of what he learnt about the women who once lived in his home. In Victorian times, the house had served as a ‘Home of Hope’ – an organisation which helped those who were on the brink of falling out of society. The “unbridled revelry” of these women is what he sought to bring across in the collection, which was presented at Sadler’s Wells on Sunday morning. Read more here.
Trend takeaways: Corsetry, embellished lace and enormous sleeves
Christopher Kane
“My customer wants something that no one else has,” Christopher Kane told us this week, ahead of presenting his autumn/winter 2023 collection at a no-frills venue in Angel, where models wore clothes that were inspired by the working-class environment that he grew up in. “Memories of outfits worn day to night by his mother, aunts, and neighbours in the 1980s, the collection is a celebration of the complexities of growing up in a working-class environment,” his show notes read. “Housewives, cleaners, barmaids all play a significant role.”
Latex skirts and dresses with statement peplum hems, enormous collars, vibrant primary colours and animal-printed dresses all came down the catwalk, nodding to the fashion Kane grew up around, but also delivering something entirely unique and unexpected for his customer. Read our interview with him about the collection here.
Trend takeaways: Animal prints, peplum hems and primary colours
Simone Rocha
It is always one of the most sought-after tickets of London Fashion Week, and this season, Simone Rocha presented another eerily beautiful collection, bringing editors and influencers to Central Hall Westminster on Saturday evening, where they enjoyed live music by Irish folk group Lankum and viewed a collection that was inspired by Lughnasadh, a traditional Gaelic festival which marks the beginning of the harvest season.
Last September, Rocha presented a collection entitled ‘Taking Flight’ and for autumn/winter 2023, her inspiration was the opposite, this was all about being grounded. Read more about the collection here.
Trend takeaways: Elegant sheer dresses and ladylike platforms
16Arlington
“Emerging from the depths, coming to the surface. Waking to a new world,” creative director Marco Capaldo mused in his show notes. The title of 16Arlington’s AW23 collection was ‘Wake’, something which was referenced in the show setting – the models walked on coffee grounds which covered the runway. It was the third collection since the tragic passing of Capaldo’s partner Federica ‘Kikka’ Cavenati whose “irrepressible energy can be felt in every atom of the 16Arlington universe,” he said.
In recent years, the brand has become a real red-carpet favourite, boasting fans including Hailey Bieber and Amal Clooney, and this collection was filled with beautiful sheer gowns (many covered in sequins and feathers), which will no doubt satisfy this crowd.
Trend takeaways: Elegant sheer dressing and halter necklines
Richard Quinn
On Saturday evening, Richard Quinn presented his autumn/winter 2023 collection, erecting a beautiful floral garden inside a leisure centre in Central London, where the English Chamber Orchestra performed as the models walked. Billowing ballgowns, lots of latex, embellished eveningwear, unique silhouettes and his signature bold florals all featured, as well as more than a few bridal-worthy looks.
Trend takeaways: Opera gloves and bold blooms
Molly Goddard
For Molly Goddard, this season was all about stripping things back, right back to basics, to focus completely on what her brand stands for, great design. “None of the fuss, none of the circus,” Goddard told us. Showing in her studio in East London, the designer said she wanted attendees to see everything up close – “it’s all about slowing down and focussing on the clothes”. This was a response to the mood of the industry right now, where designers are often forced to use their energy elsewhere – red-carpet dressing, brand promotion, social media – rather than being able to pay their full attention to what they are truly passion about. This idea came through not just in the setting of the catwalk show, but of course in the designs themselves, which Goddard describes as fuss-free and practical. “Nothing has been done for the show of it. I wanted it to be a really wearable collection.”
In what she described as her “ode to fashion”, the designer worked with her sister and stylist Alice Goddard to dip into the past, scouring the archives in the Central Saint Martins’ library, thinking about how they would actually style the pieces they reminisced about when they were young; the pieces they coveted in fashion magazines, as well as those they were able to buy. Read more about the collection here.
Trend takeaways: Sheer dresses paired with cardigans, leopard print and ballet pumps
David Koma
“This season, Marlene Dietrich became my leading lady,” David Koma told us of his inspiration for AW23. “She was a pioneer of the androgenous dressing, often wearing trouser suits, while simultaneously being exceptionally feminine. In a nod to her iconic style, the collection juxtaposes traditionally masculine elements like sharp tailoring and shirting with feminine touches – transparent ruffles, luxuriously soft knitwear and floral elements.”
Trend takeaways: Top-to-toe one-tone dressing, opera gloves and embellished everything
Rixo
“I’ve always loved everything art-deco, which is largely inspired by ancient Egypt. This is where the collection inspiration started,” explains one half of Rixo, Orlagh McCloskey. “The team and I began researching traditional Egyptian techniques and patterns and reimagined various elements in the Rixo way. You’ll see my hand-painted RIXO take on traditional Hieroglyphics in the collection, as well as lots of foil-printing, embellishments, and some evil-eyes too.”
Trend takeaway: Metallic occasionwear
Conner Ives
Connor Ives had plenty of reference points for his AW23 collection, including Kate Moss at Glastonbury, Anne Hathaway in The Princess Diaries and Carrie Bradshaw (of which he said, “No further explanation needed. Purely fictional, highly delusional, terrible taste in men, and an incredible sense of style.”) While these women – and many others – filtered into the collection, the bulk of it was based on Paul Thomas Anderson’s 1999 movie Magnolia. “The film depicts lives connected through more than just chance alone, with deep, messy and imperfect human actions and emotions at its centre. It served as the perfect foil for the worlds I create in my collections: disparate characters, taken from a cross-section of my subconscious; connected through more than just chance alone.”
Trend takeaways: Noughties, Noughties, Noughties
Ahluwalia
“What would the soundtrack to my life look like?” mused Priya Ahluwalia of her AW23 collection, ‘Symphony’. The designer rediscovered the music of her youth – the Bollywood soundtracks and the mainstream Hip-Hop “that littered the airwaves in the ’90s and ’00s as Priya came of age” – as well as the bashment and house music she enjoyed at parties in her teens, and more recently, the afrobeat and neo wave R&B she listens to in her everyday life.
She used these references to explore not just the joy that music provides, but also the memories. This was seen in the clothes through music waves and notes that inspired jacquard patterns on mohair knitwear, track tops and shorts, while many of the colours in the collection were references to album covers and the geometric shapes on slip dresses and belted coats were directly inspired by the lines of musical instruments.
Trend takeaway: Double denim
Huishan Zhang
“Drama is life with the dull bits cut out,” Alfred Hitchcock famously said, a sentiment which Huishan Zhang referenced as part of the inspiration for his AW23 collection, which was presented in the basement of The Londoner on Friday afternoon. Recasting the Hitchcockian femme fatale for the 21st century, the designer presented red carpet-worthy gowns, many in bright colours and featuring feathers, tulle, lace and sequins. “This is a woman who’s as confident with her sense of self as she is with her capacity to seduce. She’s empowered, disarming and in classic film noir form: razor sharp.”
Trend takeaway: Pastel hues
Standing Ground
Standing Ground presented its autumn/winter 2023 collection as part of the Fashion East programme on the first morning of London Fashion Week. The brand – which was founded last year by Royal College of Art graduate, Michael Stewart – is known for its modern take on evening dresses with an emphasis on drapery, form and fit. His slinky jersey gowns have recently been worn by Ellie Bamber and Naomie Harris on the red carpet. This season, Stewart wanted to elaborate on “form, silhouette and tailoring through intricate, refined eveningwear,” he explained. “Deceptive minimalism shrouds a complex construction.”
Trend takeaways: Pops of pink and dresses that cling
Harris Reed
Florence Pugh opened Harris Reed’s AW23 show by declaring “all the world’s a stage”, sparkling in head-to-toe harlequin sequins and addressing an audience in-the-round. This sense of the theatrical ran throughout the designer’s latest demi-couture collection, with clothing designed to “amplify the character of the wearer” or to “communicate the role, or even gender, they wish to portray”, inspired by the excess of pageant queens and the sculptural shapes of Henry Moore. As always, there was also an element of (extremely luxurious) upcycling, with theatre drapes repurposed as a shimmering gold lamé fabric, set against plush black velvet and crystal embellishments, in what was the ultimate celebration of getting dressed up.
Trend takeaways: Sculptural silhouettes and high shine
Michael Kors
On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Michael Kors presented his autumn/winter 2023 collection, one which he defined as ‘Urban Bohemia’. It was inspired by Greenwich Village in the 1970s and women who “despite being strong, powerful and smart, are happy to admit that they enjoy fashion”. Some of these names include his mother – whom he describes as “an athlete and feminist” – as well as Gloria Steinem (“a remarkable woman in every sense”, who was sat on the front row). Read all about the Seventies-inspired collection and the must-have ‘Gloria’ belt here.
Trend takeaways: Low-slung belts, Seventies fringing and flares
Tory Burch
Tory Burch wanted to challenge perceptions of beauty and femininity for the new season. “We broke down the traditional wardrobe and rebuilt it with an undone attitude,” she explained. “Familiar silhouettes are reinterpreted through sculpting, tailoring and twisting while preserving a simplicity of form. Luxurious materials are raw-cut and weathered, logos hang off of bags and heels are broken, emphasising the beauty of imperfection…This collection is about the confidence that comes from being unapologetically yourself. Women aren’t interested in rules, and every piece is designed to be endlessly mixed, layered, and individualised.”
Brandon Maxwell
Brandon Maxwell embraced a capsule wardrobe for autumn/winter 2023, showcasing plenty of wear-everywhere pieces including suiting, leather coats and toned-down classics, much of it in neutral hues. The collection felt much more minimal than some we have seen from him, and saw an emphasis on wardrobe building blocks, rather than colourful gowns.
Trend takeaways: Office shorts and minimalism
Gabriela Hearst
Also embracing quiet luxury and minimalism, as she does so well, was Gabriela Hearst whose autumn collection was filled with super high-end capsule classics. It was all inspired by 1920s Irish artist, architect and furniture designer, Eileen Gray. Beautiful leather dresses, silk gowns and her signature statement knitwear came down the catwalk.
Trend takeaway: Ankle-skimming hemlines
Khaite
“Power is owned, rather than declared, wielded with ease,” said designer Catherine Holstein of the Khaite woman, and of the wardrobe that she tries to create for her.
Presented in the very first Khaite store on Mercer Street, Holstein remarked that the collection was all about “transformative power” which mirrored the evolution of her customer. Exquisite knitwear, floor-length silhouettes and structured leather made up another beautiful collection, one which perfectly exhibited that quiet luxury that the brand has become so well known for.
Trend takeaway: Tonal dressing
Coach
Stuart Vevers wanted to celebrate the heritage of Coach and its “American fashion language” this season, the creative director said. “Fall was inspired by our belief that when you show up as you really are, you inspire others to do so, too. The collection presents an authentic interpretation of the heritage and house codes that define Coach, redefined through the next generation’s concept of individuality and expression.”
“There’s a straightforwardness that reflects where we’re headed in the future. To bring this to life on the runway, I envisioned an intimate gathering at the Armory that would not only celebrate freedom of self-expression, but the spirit of getting together and having fun that, to me, is the heart of fashion and of New York City.”
Trend takeaways: Lots of leather and biker boots
Rodarte
It was all about dark romance at Rodarte this season in a collection that seemed to nod to the hype surrounding Netflix’s latest hit, Wednesday. Long black gowns with exaggerated sleeves, black veils, gothic make-up, beautifully embellished ballgowns and caped dresses came down the catwalk. It was a great return to New York for the brand, having had a few seasons off the Big Apple schedule.
Trend takeaway: Gothic eveningwear
LaQuan Smith
LaQuan Smith has become such a favourite on the red carpet, and his AW23 collection has certainly delivered for those stars who have come to adore his sultry and empowering designs. Sheer dresses, dramatic cut-outs, latex and catsuits all featured, and will no doubt be heading straight into the wardrobes of Julia Fox and Khloe Kardashian.
Trend takeaway: Sheer everything
Carolina Herrera
A Carolina Herrera collection is always one of the most ladylike to be shown during New York Fashion Week, and this season was no different as Wes Gordon took inspiration from the dichotomy of discipline and grandeur found in Sisi, Empress Elisabeth of Austria. “A dazzling figure with her own agency who was unafraid to break rules and stand out, Sisi serves as the starting point for this season, heralding the unapologetic embrace of beauty and high drama.”
Trend takeaways: Jewel tones and elegant silhouettes
Dion Lee
Entitled ‘Second Skin’, Dion Lee’s AW23 collection referenced snakes. There were more literal interpretations of this with snakeskin leather jackets, skirts and trousers, as well as more subtle nods to shedding and scales throughout the collection. Known for his partywear, the designer embraced the club scene once again, presenting top-to-toe sequins, sheer pieces and plenty of clingy dresses.
Trend takeaway: High-end party pieces
Photo Courtesy of Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jason Wu
For autumn/winter 2023, Jason Wu looked to the works of 20th century artist Karl Blossfeldt. “His botanical photography had a fragility and strength that is contrasted with a moodiness which prompted me into a cinematic direction,” the designer explained in his show notes, presenting delicate, feminine dresses in lace and chiffon alongside oversized, deconstructed suiting. “I wanted to put a special emphasis on American craftsmanship with the boundless possibility of our New York atelier.”
Trend takeaway: Elevated sheer dressing
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung went on a 10-day meditation retreat in his homeland of Nepal, which served as the point of inspiration for his latest collection. Bringing some of the magic of the country back to New York City, he also explored the Buddhist concept of “anichya”, the philosophical problem of change.
Trend takeaways: Statement knits and bold satin gowns
Simkhai
For the newly rebranded Simkhai (they have dropped the ‘Jonathan’), it was all about tailoring for AW23. We saw deconstructed suits, cropped blazers, oversized fits, leather trenches and beautiful layering.
Trend takeaway: Nineties grey suiting
Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano’s muse for AW23 was Audrey Hepburn. But, more specifically, Audrey Hepburn seen through the lens of gardening, at night. Chic Little Black Dresses, statement hats, floral motifs, tulle gowns and statement prints featured throughout the collection, which was presented at a former bank.
Trend takeaway: LBDs
Marc Jacobs
A week or so before fashion week kicked off, Marc Jacobs hosted a special show at the Park Avenue Armory in New York, which was partly devoted to Vivienne Westwood. A quote from the late designer was shared in Jacobs’ show notes, which read: “Fashion is life-enhancing, and I think it’s a lovely, generous thing to do for other people.” Her influence was felt throughout the collection – in the enormous lace-up platform boots, draped corsetry and polka-dot prints – which was aptly titled ‘Heroes’.
Trend takeaways: Mega platforms, oversized fits and lots of layering
Zadig & Voltaire
Zadig & Voltaire took to Paris to host its AW23 show, presenting to a starry front row, which included Alexa Chung and Mia Regan. “When the days shorten, go embrace the light,” read a line in the show notes, citing “bold silhouettes” and “burning freedom” as points of inspiration for the vampy, rock ‘n’ roll collection which was filled with leather and lace.
Trend takeaways: Sheer lingerie dressing, gothic glamour and motocross leather
Written by Amy De Klerk for Harper’s Bazaar UK
Lead Image Courtesy Of Jason Lloyd-Evans