Children of The Evolution: The New Saudi Fashion Collective Reimagining The Abaya
Lomar + Safia are transforming the way we consider and celebrate the traditional garment
For years now, Arab women have been turning to western designers for every day and event pieces, with many adopting a western style of dress; a new Saudi-based fashion collective is turning the tables on this norm, by designing abayas that not only local women in the region will love, but designs that will also appeal to the stylish expat woman.
Bayan wears: Abaya, Lomar + Safia. Accessories, stylist’s own
Introducing; the Lomar + Safia capsule collection, abayas that cleverly merge intricate and traditional Arabic motifs and geometric patterns with contemporary textures and tailoring. Classic black abayas stand aside bold, colour-blocked designs, and traditional natural fibres such as cotton, linen and wool are as welcome as technical fabrics, culminating in an ingenious raincoat abaya design. Everything about the capsule collection emanates contemporary chic, while referencing the essence and beauty of a time gone by.
A chance meeting between designers Princess Safia Hussein Guerras and Christophe Beaufays is to thank for the collaboration, a rendezvous that may never have occurred if pandemic travel restrictions hadn’t been in place to keep Princess Safia at home in Riyadh, rather than abroad. She stumbled on Christophe while researching Jeddah-based thobe designers Lomar, where Christophe is fashion designer and associate art director. “My husband is involved with the Saudi Golf Federation and he was looking for a brand to design the clothes that the golfers on the team should wear,” explains mother-of-three Princess Safia, who is married to Prince Khalid bin Saud Al-Fasial. “He often asks me to help with style issues, so we discussed the beauty and simplicity of the thobe. We both felt very strongly that we needed a brand that would be traditional, elegant, and yet have a modern twist, and this lead me to Lomar.”
Princess Hannah Alfaisal wears: Abaya, Lomar + Safia. Accessories, stylist’s own
But when the former model met Christophe, a friendship formed that outlived the corporate golf project, and evolved into discussions about abayas – something the Lomar brand also produces and markets.
“Lomar was, and still is, very well known for the men’s thobe, and the popular menswear image of the brand has overshadowed its womenswear for a while,” explains Christophe, whose fashion CV includes working alongside Jean-Paul Gaultier before moving to the Middle East as Artistic Director at the Esmod French Fashion School in Dubai, then on to Lomar in Jeddah.
“Things are changing with time, especially since we opened our first‘ abaya-only’ store. We also hope that this collaboration with Princess Safia will shine more light on our womenswear section.”
For Princess Safia, designing abayas has always been a dream. “It’s been on my bucket list for the past 14 years. I have always felt proud to be an Arab, a Muslim and a Saudi and I love the abaya,” says Princess Safia. “I feel it elevates women, allows them to practice modesty while being individual and stylish.” But she also saw a new potential customer for the traditional item of clothing. “In my time spent in Saudi, I have heard many western expatriates talk positively about the abaya and how they actually love it. So, I wanted to designsomething that could be embraced and worn internationally. A statement that speaks to all women, and eventually results in a crossover that straddles all cultures as something that is positive, tailored and minimalist, but also dignified, proud and traditional.”
Dareen Bassas and Dalia Al Akki wear: Abayas, Lomar + Safia. Accessories, stylist’s own
And it’s a sentiment that Christophe was immediately on board with. “There’s definitively a gap in the market when it comes to beautifully designed abayas,” he explains. “I believe this collection is different from any other because it hasn’t been designed to only speak to Saudi or Muslim women, but to any woman in the world, from different cultures and religions, who share the same view on modesty and elegance. This collection is across over between Saudi tradition and global fashion.”
So, what unites all these variations of the Lomar + Safia woman? “She’s a modern and open-minded woman who likes to be chic in any circumstance, be that at work, at a café, or at special event,” Christophe tells us. The Princess goes on to add, “She is a woman who is seeking a beautifully tailored garment, a woman who values expert crafting and attention to detail.”
So how have the pair, who didn’t even know of each others’ existence a year ago, found working together? “Since day one, Princess Safia and I were on the same page,” explains Christophe, who brings the weight of the design experience to the collaboration. “We share the same taste and passion forthe Saudi culture and the Islamic heritage. We have a common approach of how to gather tradition and modernity in an elegant and minimalistic way. Princess Safia has an eye for detail that matters, and a taste for simplicity that leads to a natural and modern elegance.”
And Princess Safia appreciates Christophe pushing her out of hercomfort zone. “I feel like I play safer in my approach to design, whereas Christophe is definitely more daring at taking risks. After all, he worked for Gaultier!” she jokes. “Working together definitely pushed my limits, taught me to be bolder and more daring.”
Lama Al Humaidhi wears: Abaya, Lomar + Safia. Accessories, stylist’s own
The next part of the collection’s journey is its showcase this month at the Belgian Embassy in Riyadh. “Expect the fashion show of the year in Saudi Arabia,” says Christophe excitedly. “In front of VIPs including royals, journalists and influencers, with music that’s custom-made for the occasion by an amazing Saudi live band, it will surprise everybody for sure.”
Princess Hannah Alfaisal wears: Abaya, Lomar + Safia. Accessories, stylist’s own
Safia, on the other hand, is more interested in the show’s wider impact. “I would dare to say you can expect a complete revamp of the abaya business[afterthe show],” she predicts. “There’s a focus on quality and longevity… a bit like having those unique statement pieces that really speak to you.” And the collection is indeed unique in every way, transforming not just the abaya itself, but totally modernising the way it’s portrayed, too.
Photography: Hayat Osamah. Styling: Latifa Bin Saad. Art Direction: Ali Cha’aban. Make-up: Eilaf Sabbagh. Set designer: Mazin Almaimani. Fashion assistants: Raneem Shaban and Amira Abdu.
Lead image credits: Princess Hannah Alfaisal wears: Abaya, Lomar + Safia. Accessories, stylist’s own
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s December 2020 issue.