How Saudi Brand NOA Couture Is Breaking Boundaries
Heralding the birth (or rebirth) of Saudi Haute Couture, Designer Nawaf Saud’s brand, NOA Couture echoes Saudi Style Council’s passionate refrain – that the Kingdom’s creative talent is a world-class force to be reckoned with
What’s your backstory and how did you first get into fashion?
Being born in the early ’80s, as a kid I was influenced by the powerful fashion movement of the time. As a Capricorn, I believe it shaped my personality and perception towards a strong-headed direction and passion for art. Growing up I lived between London and my home city of Riyadh.
My first interest in fashion design was during my adolescent years. I remember my first thoughts on fashion were, ‘How can such a primitive tool of man, such as the needle and thread, be able to produce such art forms as garments?’ This used to fascinate me.
From the Rhythmix Collection. Art direction and styling: Roy Alan Hilton. Photo: Christopher Sims
What’s the story behind the launch of NOA Couture?
In 2005, my passion drove me to transform my vision into a commercial reality. Encouraged by my Central Saint Martins professors, I stayed true to my international fashion dreams. Maturity cemented the commitment. For a design house to be truly loved and embraced globally, it must have won the hearts and minds of its nationals first.
I really feel that NOA Couture has achieved this with its first collection, called Space Landing, in 2005 followed by another collection in 2006 called Dreamers, which started my first leap into fashion. In 2008, the collection Kaftans was the first bridge between the East and West.
Between 2007 and 2009, I created a collection of fashion accessories including gloves and wallets. In 2010 I created another collection bridging the gap between the East and West, as before. In 2011, I created a couture collection called Red Hot Sands Of Arabia and in 2012 I created one called Projection Fantasy. In 2018, I created the collection Windows, which I believe further endorsed NOA Couture’s position within the global fashion arena.
The graphic and material mood board for the Windows Collection
What did you draw on for inspiration when designing Windows?
The catalyst for Windows 2018 was the architecture of Zaha Hadid’s building in Riyadh. The photography employed for the shoot of NOA’s Windows collection supported my vision of the stretch that’s reflective of an urban blend of theatrical glamour, whose roots are found in architecture from the East to the West.
Part of the Projections of Fantasy collection, designed to recall wonder, love and light
How has your experience of living between Saudi and Europe developed your perspective as a designer?
My perspective as a designer has been highly influenced by my exposure here in Saudi from the mud houses of this region, through to art films. By far the most welcomed of all influencing factors have been the works of the late globally renowned architect Zaha Hadid which are built both here and globally.
Who is the NOA Couture woman?
Our clients have proven to be an eclectic mix who all share common traits: savvy women with modern flair, adventurous in niche fashion, with a deep appreciation of tradition and sophistication. I would perceive the characteristics of our clients to include an understanding of the inner beauty, heritage and projected status. Often dramatic and dreamily divine beings.
From the Projections of Fantasy collection, inspired by the endless possibilities of the imagination
Who is your muse and why?
Fortunately, I travelled at a young age with my mother who has always embraced much of this world’s culture. She has been my life-long muse. Her natural gift of style and desire for being dressed in couture spanning many decades of designer outfits continues to fuel my own creativity to this day. I feel I have inherited my love of this industry from this awesome lady.
Why do you think your clothes have such an international appeal?
The garments produced by NOA Couture are cutting-edge, fun statement pieces. Their appeal will remain international as the demand for them is driven by the ever-evolving needs of today’s empowered women.
From the Windows Collection, inspired by Zaha Hadid’s iconic buildings.
What are your thoughts on the current change in the world of Arab fashion and how it’s seen globally?
Fashion moves as a trend in different currents. I created my own movement and I stayed truthful to my artistic thoughts. Making a mark in the expanding world of fashion has been a challenge that I anticipate has been met by the fluidity of permissible movement and motion for the wearer of many pieces from my collections.
Have the recent political changes in Saudi affected how Saudi women feel about fashion?
Due to Saudi Vision 2030 being encouraged and embraced by society, the female population is experiencing far more inclusion within it. Saudi women are increasingly empowered to play an important role in the world. Many professional females are now further able to indulge their appreciation of shape, form and colour, hence expressing these new-found freedoms in their wardrobe choices. Keeping in mind that Saudi women have always been creative in their own ways and time has given them enough space to polish more creativity before shining on a global scale.
Has that affected the way you design?
Indeed, as the boundary becomes broader and as the bar becomes higher, quality and uniqueness become the biggest challenge.
Do you feel you are part of a new Arab fashion movement?
The garments produced by Noa Couture continue to be living creations of cultural heritage such as family traditions, celebrations and Arabic ceremonies, and this results in us being a pivotal part of the latest Arab fashion movement.
Which Middle Eastern women would you feel most honoured to have wear your designs?
Most of the Middle Eastern women of the world that choose to support my creations warm the heart and motivate me to become more prolific in the coming months.
Images courtesy of NOA Couture
From Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 Issue.