Gherardo Felloni On The Magical World Of Roger Vivier
At the creative helm of revered luxury shoe brand Roger Vivier, Gherardo Felloni strikes a perfect balance between heritage and novelty
Arriving for lunch with Harper’s Bazaar Arabia at Mandarin Oriental Doha, Gherardo Felloni, Creative Director of Roger Vivier, is exactly what one would hope. Vibrant, exuberant, and with a quick-witted sense of humour, he fits perfectly into the ethos of one of the most revered shoe brands in the world – playful, bold, and bright. Respectful of the heritage that has come before him – Roger Vivier began his career in the late 1920s, designing for many of the top manufacturers of Europe and the United States, before rising to the height of fame for his designs for Christian Dior in the mid twentieth century – Gherardo also exudes a pioneering spirit; something that has seen him skillfully translate the house codes into something new and contemporary.
Resulting in an inventive array of designs ranging from the athleisure Viv’ Run Sneaker; to the I Love Vivier pumps featuring a heart design on the interior; or the higher, fantastical silhouettes that punctuate the glamorous Spring/Summer 2022 collection.
“For me, Roger Vivier is a special brand,” said the designer. “When you’re a shoe designer, Roger Vivier is the one and only. He played a role in changing the silhouette and in changing fashion. He made shoes into something really relevant and beautiful.” For Gherardo, embracing that heritage was about building on the DNA, rather than replicating the past.
“If you copy something in fashion, it’s not new. With shoes, you cannot do the same things today because the techniques are different, and because women’s feet are different, and their lifestyles have changed. So heritage for me is not an object, or something physical, it’s the meaning of the brand, it’s a feeling – of rarity, of happiness, of colour, of iconic women, of joie de vivre,” he proclaimed.
That sentiment plays out in Roger Vivier’s latest collection – Flooded, a musical short film with Floodland as its theme song, composed and sung by Gherardo himself and featuring, amongst others, the iconic Isabella Rossellini. Bold in spirit, highlights include gold-toned gladiator sandals first designed by Monsieur Roger Vivier and which Gherardo Felloni has adorned with a buckle; the Viv’Choc bag, brought to centre stage in a variety of materials and joyful colours; and a selection of statement jewellery that forms a key part of the brand’s future offering.
The film, and the collection it showcases, is a gorgeously decadent and creative showcase and one which finds affinity with the Middle Eastern consumer – a fact that has led to an impressive growth in the region including the opening of a Doha boutique early next year. In town as part of the Fashion Trust Arabia judging panel, what are Gherardo’s main takeaways from Qatar? “I feel so honoured to judge the new generation of designers,” he says. “I thought there were many talents.
One thing that I have really loved about being here is the fact that since arriving, I have been invited to the Fire Station, M7, the National Museum – Qatar is promoting culture alongside fashion and that’s a wonderful thing. The buildings are amazing, the architecture is beautiful. I grew up in Italy and I’m passionate about other cultures so being here and seeing all of these cultural elements alongside an appreciation of fashion is uplifting.”
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s January 2022 issue