How Tory Burch Is Celebrating Its 20th Birthday This Year
Along with the fashionable festivities comes a signature fragrance dedicated to the Middle East…
Celebrating 20 years at the top of the fashion ladder, Tory Burch, the designer, entrepreneur and philanthropist who remains at the helm of her eponymous brand – and was just lauded as one of Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in the world – speaks to Harper’s Bazaar Arabia about striving for positive change, and what’s in store for both the brand, and the woman behind it. “We are just getting started; there is so much more I want to do,” she insists.
It has been 20 years since you launched your signature brand. Has your central ethos changed at all?
It is hard to sum up 20 years, but in short, we never stopped evolving. I have always been intrigued by reinvention and innovation, and our company has gone through multiple iterations. It is wonderful that people are recognising the work we have done, but it certainly didn’t happen overnight!
I have learned a great deal about design along the way, especially since I refined my role in 2019. My collections have become far more personal, and I have never been happier; I’m so happy it is resonating.
Pierre-Yves Roussel came on board as CEO in 2019. Can you talk about how you work together to grow the brand and expand its global reach?
We complement each other. He is a CEO who understands creativity, and I’m a designer who understands business. We partner closely on strategy and are incredibly energised about our company’s future. Pierre-Yves has global expertise, and we are looking at accelerating our business in several markets.However, patient growth has been important from day one; I never wanted to be the biggest brand, I wanted to be the most extraordinary brand. We are very intentional about how we open boutiques and expand in various markets.
After two decades, what have you learned being the creative designer of your brand?
For the first 14 years of our business, I was the CEO and the creative director. The experience was extremely valuable; understanding our business has made me a better designer. But it did not always work for me; I was being pulled in too many directions, and I knew that in order to push our company forward, I needed to focus 100 per cent on design. I looked for CEOs in the past and never found the right fit, but this time, I didn’t have to look too far… Pierre-Yves is the best partner I could possibly ask for.
How did it feel to present your collection in the newly opened Gilder Center at America’s Museum of Natural History? Did it shape the way you wanted to tell your sartorial story?
We designed the collection long before we chose the venue, but as soon as I saw it, I knew it was perfect for our show. The clothes really felt in harmony with the space, designed by Jeanne Gang.
For Spring, we experimented with new shapes, like micro-mini dresses, and focused on building structure without weight. I wanted everything to have sculptural volume, but still feel extremely light and airy.
What designs or looks do you feel would speak to women living in the Middle East?
The clean lines and weightless fabrics of our kaftans, tunics, and paper nylon sport separates would be effortless even in the hottest months. That said, I don’t think as much about seasons when I design; women want beautiful pieces that last, and I hope they will mix and layer our collection year-round, wherever they are in the world.
What, for you, is the definition of cool?
Owning your individuality. In a way, the coolest thing you can do is to not worry about what anyone else considers cool… I’m inspired by people who dress for themselves, not for anyone else.I don’t really look to style icons, I am most inspired by the women I see in New York. Their everyday style can be far more intriguing than what you see at Fashion Week or on the red carpet.
In general, what sort of designer are you? Are you led by fabric choices, or do you perhaps build from a mood board?
It’s all of the above. Every collection starts with research at the New York Public Library, and eventually we build mood boards. Our references are usually about colour and attitude, not a specific silhouette or detail. In the studio, we do a lot of fabric exploration and 3-D draping on the body. I’m happiest when we are on the floor, working out a new idea, cutting and pinning as we go; it doesn’t always work, but it’s how we have landed on some of our best concepts.
What are you most proud of when you look back on everything accomplished professionally?
I am proud to have built a company that stands for positive change. When I started in 2004, that was unheard of, and many people doubted me. In less than 15 years,our Foundation has facilitated hundreds of millions of dollars in loans and grants to women entrepreneurs, and our network has grown to two million women.
You have also just launched a new fragrance focussed on the Middle East. Can you tell us about it and what sort of aroma you wanted to create specifically for this market?
It was a luxury and a privilege to work with Middle Eastern ingredients and blends for this collection. We sourced the most extraordinary oud, saffron, Turkish rose, Madagascan mandarin, orris… The results are addictive.
Our first five Essence of Dreams fragrances were about optimism and visualising a better world: the dream of peace, joy, love, freedom, and magic. This collection inspires us to embrace our sense of adventure, courage, desire, imagination, and wisdom. I love the idea that someone will feel courageous wearing Enduring Leather, or bold and adventurous when she reaches for Atlas Oud.
Images supplied
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s May 2024 issue