Miami Nice: A Glimpse Into Chanel Cruise 2023
Chanel’s Cruise replica show turned the Faena hotel’s iconic beach into a celebration of (double) C-side glamour
Eschewing Gloria Estefan’s entire back catalogue, the soundtrack of Sofia and Roman Coppola’s short film for Chanel’s Cruise 2022-23 replica in Miami was instead characteristically less predictable. This Town by The Go-Go’s provided apt lyrics for a show held snaking among the red-and-white striped parasols of the Faena hotel’s somewhat mythical beach: “This town is our town/ It is so glamorous/ Bet you’d live here if you could/ And be one of us.” The Coppolas certainly understood the assignment, signalling the fashion world’s – and Chanel’s more than most – ability to create glittering, exclusive microclimates in some of the globe’s already-fabulous destinations, like little snowglobes of Chanel-shaped chic.
Cruise, in fact, has built its entire foundation on it. And the whole concept of this annual off-season collection (originally aimed at the jet-set who needed warm-weather attire for jaunts to winter sun), was even invented by Mademoiselle Chanel herself back in 1919.
Since that stroke of sartorial – and commercial – genius, Chanel has presented its Cruise collections everywhere from Seoul to Santa Monica, and from Havana to Dubai, landing here – on this sweeping stretch of Miami Beach, for its latest soujourn. “Why Miami? Chanel loves Miami,” Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Fashion, explained during a masterclass the morning after the show. And who wouldn’t? It’s a city rife with electricity – fuelled by art, by nightlife, by glamour, and by – as aftershow-party performer Nile Rodgers put it – Good Times. And he would know. He soundtracked most of them.
“Good times” could well be Miami’s motto. And Virginie Viard’s collection would be only too happy to oblige; a wardrobe that speaks to both South Beach-bound party girls and those racking up the bill ordering the spicy rigatoni at Carbone. Whatever your idea of fun is, it can certainly be found in the playground that is Miami, and it will certainly only ever be improved dressed in Cruise.
Originally staged in Monaco, the looks took shape inspired by a playful take on Riviera glamour. The Formula One – also recently held in Miami – was front and centre, with Chanel’s tongue-in-cheek homage to racing motifs juxtaposed with the maison’s codes that we all know and love. A confession: one of the best things about attending a Chanel show is seeing so many of these signatures in the wild. The audience – an army of Chanelophiles – descend in a sea of tweed, pearls, interlocking Cs and quilted leather. And there’s more: the toe-cap shoes, the chain trims, the monochrome palette, the whiff of No.5… check-boxes that semaphore Chanel, sometimes subtly and sometimes until you forget there are even any other brands in existence. It’s something to behold – and that’s all before the models even begin their strut down the runway. It’s quite the power move, and it all comes together to serve as a reminder of the sheer might that the brand still commands.
For this collection, a red and white tweed jumpsuit came in pole position both literally and figuratively; echoing both the Faena’s famed parasols and cabanas on which guests were sat, and the Monégasque flag from the collection’s original locale. Finished with a matching baseball cap – infused with the kind of swagger that would make Max Verstappen proud – the stage was set for an ode to fashion in the fast lane; from Monaco’s Grand Prix circuit to sashaying past the Art Deco confections of Ocean Drive.
Pops of bubblegum pink, metallic sneakers and tennis racquet-shaped backpacks kept the party going, whilst more on-the-nose inspiration came in the form of logo-stamped racing helmets, either full-size and tucked under one arm, or minaudière versions dangling from delicate chain shoulder straps. Checkerboard flags fluttered across diaphanous chiffon dresses and midi skirts, while Monte Carlo’s other grand icon – le casino – was also dutifully mined for motifs. Think slot machines and poker chips turned into mini clutches, as well as enough Bond Girl sequins to satisfy princesses and party crowds alike.
The wit and whimsy that Karl once infused in the maison is, thankfully, still writ large over much of Chanel under Virginie’s watch. And in a feelgood place like Miami, that’s something of a requirement. Just ask Nile Rodgers. Come to think of it… ask Gloria Estefan.
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s January 2023 issue.
