The Second-Hand Stigma: Where Does The Region Really Stand When It Comes to Pre-Loved Fashion?

We asked five women of different backgrounds to weigh in

Everyone is well aware that there is a real need to consume in a more responsible manner, and the luxury sector is no exception. The shift to embracing pre-loved and vintage items has already made clear inroads into the space as we see iconic locations like London’s Selfridges department store and Dubai’s Level Shoes embracing the second-hand market. But as pre-loved items finally become a part of the mainstream fashion conversation, is the GCC also ready to make the switch?

Here in the region, which has the highest spend per capita on fashion and beauty, pre-loved and vintage pieces are still not a priority buy for most shoppers living in the Gulf. But there are signs things are beginning to change. At the start of this year, Dubai’s Level Shoes introduced its pre-loved programme and noted that millennials and Gen Z generations are taking to the idea of pre-loved, while the more mature shopper prefers iconic vintage pieces. “While there was once a stigma associated with pre-loved items, especially in luxury sectors, this is no longer the case,” says Rani Nasr, General Manager E-commerce at Level Shoes. “Preloved pieces are not only viewed as environmentally conscious, but also stylish,” she adds.

Harper’s Bazaar Arabia spoke with five women, of different backgrounds and age groups who live in the region, to see if buying secondary fashion is truly seen as a cool and kinder sartorial option.

Irene Feeney

The Irish fashion stylist and content creator is a flea market queen. She has lived in Dubai for almost two decades and believes in only buying pieces she can wear 30 times. About one-tenth of her wardrobe comprises pre-loved items.

What is the difference between preloved and vintage, and do you feel people in this region understand the the distinction between the two?

I believe the main difference between preloved and vintage is age, uniqueness and in some cases, quality. Vintage clothing holds a specific time frame, often associated with the ’60s or ’70s for example. On the other hand, pre-loved clothing has more of a ‘used’ connotation associated with it and could be something that’s been sitting in your wardrobe which you bought six months ago.

I think there is more of an emphasis on pre-loved in this region, rather than vintage. Unique vintage shops are few and far between, whereas the pre-loved sector seems to be growing.

Where do you buy the pre-loved pieces in your wardrobe?

I love to have a browse in Thrift for Good in Times Square Mall or on the Palm at Golden Mile Galleria and of course the Dubai Flea Market – that’s like an Aladdin’s Cave of unique pre-loved items.

Are we playing catch-up here compared to the Global North?

We don’t have a historic legacy here like in Europe where quality vintage clothing and accessories are available. We’re a relatively new region, especially in the second-hand space, but as more and more people from all over move here, this is something that can only grow further. We can thank Gen Z for that!

Could you share a thrifting tip?

My last pre-loved item I bought was a Hugo Boss navy men’s blazer from Thrift for Good. I love the oversized blazer aesthetic and that’s exactly what you get with men’s blazers. Always check out the men’s section. Men buy good quality clothes that last, that’s a fact. Men’s preloved items are mostly great quality items and designer brands.

Yasmin Al Mulla

The creative director of YNM Dubai, Yasmin Al Mulla is known for impeccable style, which has led many luxury brands to collaborate with her. While she has never bought anything pre-loved or vintage, the creative does treasure all her vintage jewellery; heirlooms passed down to her from her mother.

Would you consider making a pre-loved purchase?

I haven’t ventured into purchasing pre-loved pieces as of now. If I were to consider it, it would likely be for an exceptionally rare item, something beyond clothing, and it would need to be in pristine, unworn condition. The vintage items in my possession actually belong to my mum and have been passed down through our family. I share a belief in shopping with intention, investing in timeless pieces that have the potential to become vintage treasures over time.

When it comes to pre-loved and vintage fashion, do you believe we are playing catch-up with other regions?

From an Emirati woman’s perspective, preloved and vintage fashion might be starting to gain momentum in our region, especially among younger generations, but we may still be catching up and I believe it will take some time before we reach the same level of depth and variety in pre-loved and vintage fashion.

Do you think pre-loved fashion has a future in the region?

In the GCC region, there does seem to be a prevailing preference for new items, and that aligns with my personal preference as well. Second-hand clothing may sometimes carry a perception of being ‘used’ and it’s true that here, we often take good care of our belongings and have a penchant for acquiring new ones. As a result, the demand for preloved items might be comparatively lower than in some other regions. I think it will take time for pre-loved [to gain traction], with it appealing more to the younger generation. This shift is likely fuelled by a desire to reduce environmental impact and a recognition of the value in well-maintained, previously owned pieces.

Upasana Kartik Garg

The marketing director of Delhi-based Shri Ram Hari Ram Jewellers moved into her Dubai home days before the world went into lockdown in 2020. An avid art collector, she enjoys mixing and matching high-end pieces with low.

Tell us about some of your pre-loved purchases

I’ve bought some very interesting jackets and overshirts – some more luxury than others, some more vintage than pre-loved. My favourite watch is a vintage Longines timepiece studded with rubies.

Are there items you would never buy from the secondary market?

I would personally avoid things that are body-hugging and focus on ones that can be washed or dry-cleaned with ease. A bodysuit I wouldn’t buy, or pre-loved shoes. My choices are based on my own feelings about hygiene disclaimers that come with secondary buys.

Where do you buy your pieces, and do you feel we need more pre-loved and vintage options in the city?

I bought these lace overshirts from a pop-up that happened in Dubai Media City. I’d love a vintage section at Harvey Nichols, which would also guarantee authenticity and a quality check.

Monica Gupta

Monica Gupta, a 48-year-old South Asian content creator and the founder of the pre-loved platform Tried and Treasured, has been residing in Dubai for the past three years. She recently expanded her pre-loved business to operate in Dubai as well. A collector of exceptional and rare vintage bags, Monica’s latest pre-loved buy is a Hermès Kelly pochette.

Having worked in the pre-loved markets of both India and Dubai, do you find the GCC market to be preloved- friendly?

This region is highly dynamic, with people constantly evolving their mindsets. Sustainable luxury is gaining prominence, leading to a reduction in the stigma associated with pre-loved items. The Gulf region also boasts a growing number of avenues for pre-loved luxury, especially when compared to India.

What inspired you to start Tried and Treasured?

I initially launched Tried and Treasured in India after noticing a growing trend among fashion-conscious women. These individuals wanted to stay updated with the latest trends, but their constant consumption often left them with products that went unused. Furthermore, the limited space available in large cities, where space is a luxury, made it challenging to store these unused products, resulting in damage over time.

What are Middle Eastern consumers looking for?

Having a fresh and coveted inventory has given me a competitive edge in this market. When it comes to brands like Hermès, where bags are notoriously difficult to obtain, people are willing to pay premiums for access to items that are nearly impossible to purchase in-store.

Anna Marie Aloe

The 52-year-old from Italy moved to Dubai in 2015 and met her husband in the city, and so has a very special relationship with the Middle East. She also has a connection to vintage as her sister is the founder of Siena based vintage store Aloe and Wolf. Founded 20 years ago, it counts Kate Moss, Sabine Getty and Jessica Biel among its clients. Anna recently hosted a showcase of curated vintage pieces from the store at her Dubai home.

Tell us about how you became a vintage girl

I have always liked to buy original, unique and eccentric finds at flea markets and combine them with pieces I already own. But the real push came when my sister Alessandra opened a vintage business 20 years ago. I started appreciating and understanding vintage more and now I always wear something that belongs to old and valuable collections as part of my everyday outfit.

What was the response to your debut vintage fashion showcase in Dubai?

We wanted to understand the appeal of vintage in a multicultural city such as Dubai and had a very positive response. It was a private gathering so extended only to friends and most of them had approached vintage before. Some have been vintage seekers for a long time so they enjoyed the selection and the thrill of discovering unique pieces with a story to tell.

Why do you love vintage and what’s your most cherished vintage piece?

I like to combine different decades and create my own style; it is playful and creative, and it makes me feel distinctive and original. As an example, I have repurposed a robe with feathers from the ’40s as an evening cabane for special occasions. My most loved piece is a gift from my sister: a dark-green jersey kaftan from the ’70s with a dramatic designed cut and neckline. It’s a piece that belonged to a famous fashion brand’s private archive that I also wore in Los Angeles to the glamorous Games of Thrones new-season launch party with all the actors, where it was hard to be distinctive but some fashionable people at the party stopped me to ask about my original outfit.

Lead image courtesy of Instagram/@Treasuresofnyc

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s November 2023 issue.