From John Galliano’s take on glamour in the millennial age at Maison Margiela, Elie Saab’s Caribbean-inspired collection, Viktor & Rolfe’s reflective memes and Valentino’s breathtaking Renaissance of couture and Balmain’s return, here’s all the highlights from Day 3 of Paris Haute Couture Week
Viktor & Rolfe
Viktor & Rolfe - It was all about speaking the truth at this season of Viktor & Rolfe. In a poignant yet short show of just 34 dresses, the designers sent out meme-ready dresses reflective of today’s digital world. If you feel like ditching your evening plans, just dress yourself in the "Sorry I'm late I didn't want to come” gown. Or you want to take a break from social media? There’s always the "No photos please" gown that you can post on your Insta. To end off with a big bang of altruism, there are the messages that we so need today: “I am my own my muse”, “I want a better world”, and “Peace.” Couldn't agree more, Viktor & Rolfe. Thank you for this.
Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli aptly defined his latest couture collection as a “Renaissance” of haute couture. And so it was. In a breathtaking show that brought many guests close to tears, this season featured a sublime collection of voluminous gowns replete with ruffles, frills, fringes and rich floral embroidery in a colour palette boasting regal blues, lipstick reds and majestic greens. Making a special appearance to close the show was Naomi Campbell who made an epic return to the catwalk after 14 years in a stunning transparent black ruffled gown. This collection brought Paris Haute Couture Week to a close with a transcendent meditation on the deeper meanings of craftsmanship and beauty.
Maison Margiela - John Galliano has always been one to break the mould and he’s done it again this season at Maison Margiela. In a visual feast of artisanal creations that the designer called “a New Glamour.” Indeed it was and one in which he strove to reflect the definition of glamour in the millennial age. According to this collection, which was akin to a Jackson Pollock-like splash of colours, it’s one of pulsating colours, disorder and altered realities. But is this glamour? That’s for the wearer to decide
Jean-Paul Gaultier - Always expect the unexpected at Jean-Paul Gaultier. A symptom of the designer’s freewheeling spirit, this collection featured a great deal of Japanese-style inflections coupled with a pared down Gaultier kitsch treatment. There was lots of peplum, exaggerated “harpoon” pointed sleeves, ecstatic rainbow colouring and dainty tulle gowns injected with an eclectic air. For the finale, Dita von Teese worked her magic as she walked down the runway in a seductive black plumetis gown.
Guo Pei - This season Chinese couturier Guo Pei titled her collection East Palace. Through a mesmerizing show at the Palais de Tokyo the spirited designer relayed to onlookers that the Palace of the East isn’t about a building but about women. In Chinese culture there are numerous sayings about women in palaces. Thus, Pei’s collection, while retaining numerous Asian stylistic and ornamental references, is a collection that brings the East to women all over the world.
Elie Saab - Elie Saab’s ‘Vida Paraíso’ reflected the elegance and refinement that Mr. Saab is known for but this time with a Caribbean twist. A vibrant burst of life emanating from the land and the sea was encapsulated into calming pastel colours with touches of gold and silver embroidery to echo the natural beauty of the ocean, and architectural gowns and pantsuits in majestic red with determined ruffled sleeves to reflect the organic natural creases of seashells. This season, the designer sought to explore the magical blur between the surreal and the real.