Where ‘Handmade’ Was The Unsung Hero: A Recap Of Day Two, Haute Couture Week
The second day of the Spring Summer 2021 shows exposed the beautiful brutality of what makes couture… couture
As we sleepily turn on our screens to witness livestreams of intricately made gowns walking down the runway, it’s easy to forget the amount of effort it takes for a look to go from fabric to force of nature. One single gown can take upwards of 700 hours to create. Make no mistake about it, time is just as much a luxury as the number of rhinestones in the world of couture.
Nearly 150 years old, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode Fédération is the governing body in Coutureland: the very specific requirements designers and fashion houses must meet in order to be categorise as couturiers; amongst them,designs must be made to order, requiring at least two fittings for each client. In the strictest sense couture has rules, but in the creative sense those rules are meant to be broken.
As for where one would wear such an extravagant ensemblé? There’s no wrong answer. A lucky few will wear them and many more (this writer included) will hang them carefully in her imaginary closet. A girl can dream!
In True Couture Tradition, Chanel Says ‘I Do’
Ever the dreamer, creative director Virginie Viard sought inspiration of the matrimonial sort. As if plucked from a sundrenched wedding in the french countryside, models descended a gilded staircase in romantic ensembles, spelling out a love story through Chanel’s trademark tweeds and blooms of colour. The virtual show was (safely) attended by a select group of brand ambassadors–Penélope Cruz, Marion Cotillard, Vanessa Paradis with her daugher, Lily-Rose Depp, just to name a few. Filmed by Anton Corbijn, the crescendo came in the form of a bridal ceremonial entrance. To the swooning tunes of “Be My Baby” by The Ronettes, the bride rode in on a white horse wearing a white satin gown speckled with pearl butterflies. With rose petals at her feet, you couldn’t help but bask in virtual wedded bliss.
All that Glitters Was Gold At Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli rips apart the seams of his latest collection, “Code Temporal,” to reveal a human face behind couture’s stoic facade. Shot in Rome at the Galleria Colonna, Sala Grande the storied maison explored the beauty of what it means to be handmade, “…a dance between the mind and the body, between objects and individuals.” There was no shortness on shimmer as models, some wearing full masks of glitter, walked in and out wearing contemporary styles with careful precision. Valentino Red made an appearance–one lone gown in the brand’s signature hue took its rightful place right smack dab in the center of the room. Piccioli also made his presence known, and not just through his designs. Wearing a black face mask, the creative director stood amongst his designs, staring straight at the camera laying bare the splendor of Valentino.
Armani Takes Us Behind The Scenes
Beneath antique Italian frescos, Giorgio Armani’s collection had a subtle start. The colour story started quietly with beige jackets, then vibrant with sunset corals and soft jades. Necklines became playgrounds, with whimsical tufts of fabric framing the models’ faces. The crowned jewels were the jackets. At once fitted with sharp shoulders and other times boxy with protruding buttons–all very practical. But this is couture and dessert was served by way of dress. Shards of embroidered crystals set light off in every direction, showcasing Armani’s mastery in sight manipulation. Filmed for the first time at the Milanese headquarters, viewers were given a rare glimpse into where the Armani Privé fashions come to life. “Couture is rooted in fashion history. It represents the pinnacle of creativity and sartorial skill, but is a world available only to very few. Today, through the democracy of the Internet, we are able to offer a front row seat to everyone.”
Lead image courtesy of Chanel, shot by Anton Corbijn