Day One: Milan’s “Phygital” Fashion Week Powers On Despite the Pandemic
The digital screen and physical form come together to inspire our fashion senses…
Early on in the pandemic, Italy was one of the first to fight in the Covid-19 trenches. The world stood watch to see that the rumours were true, the virus was real and soon every country would undergo a swift lockdown.
One thing was for certain, the spirit of “Bel Paese” would never be extinguished. Videos of people singing and clapping on their balconies to raise one another spirits exemplified the mightiness of their countrymen and women. Inspiring the world yet again with Milan’s Spring/Summer 2021 shows, Italy rose to the occasion. Delivering heartfelt looks that spoke to the times in a “Phygital” fashion week that would marry together the physical and digital.
In a uniformed act of solidarity, many of the designers opened their shows with all white looks–a moving nod to the notion we’re all in this together. There were common themes of “fatto a mona,” or handmade for Dolce & Gabbana, faith in family for Fendi, and hope for humanity for Brunello Cucinelli. Here are some of Bazaar’s highlights from Day One of Milan Fashion Week…
Missoni Makes Moves
In a bold move to usurp the fashion gods, Angela Missoni went against the grain, focusing her digital presentation on the now. Resurrecting her Fall 2020 looks, it made more sense to the push attention towards what would soon be in stores rather than Spring. In a video featuring the beauty of Italy along with her fashions, it’s easy to disappear into the countryside charm. In her own words, “To fall in love with a place, to fall in love, it’s a sentiment that transports you to another existence.” Opening Milan fashion week, Missoni never fails in going her own way to prove a point.
Brunello Cucinelli Takes a Leap of Faith
Brunello Cucinelli’s presentation dubbed, “Pure Spirit,” took a devout approach. Relaxed lines and classic silhouettes dress each of the models in understated looks that would outfit any occasion. In a statement made on his website, you can’t help but feel the peaceful mood exuding from his collection. “Tranquility, serenity, balance. Moments of calm and reflection promote purity of spirit, which flows spontaneously. The SS21 Collection mirrors these universal elements, embracing an air of peaceful wellbeing, drifting effortlessly, without force or constraint.”
Dsquared2
Dean and Dan Caten are never ones to shrink from their trademark punky street style and yet in one of their more subtle collections, a point was made. Models wielded their power in bold showstopping looks. Classically clean, what you see is what you get from the Caten twins. The colors were few but potent in the heavily monochromatic colour scheme. With few surprises, Dsquared2 honed in on the simplicity of their clothes as well as in their message–now’s not the time for fluff.
No. 21 Makes a Case for Bringing Together Raw with Regal
Masked guests in spaced seating for Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s show started in angel whites with safety pin embellishments, blurring into mauves, violets and then into jet blacks and soft greys. Surprise cutouts along with meshing masculine lines with feminine flare manage to create classic looks that play with high, low notes of old world elegance and street glamour. To the syrupy voice of Lana Del Rey’s “Gods and Monsters,” the virtual show oozes a melancholy vibe with subtle, yet powerful hints of hope for the future.
Fendi Makes Noise with a Quiet Palette
Silvia Venturini Fendi didn’t reach far as her family served as the main source of inspiration for her SS 2021 collection. Boxes of pasta in signature “Fs” and a lemon pesto recipe from her grandmother were bestowed onto guests. The looks were much more tailored down than we’re used to from the great Karl Lagerfeld, and in a way comforting to get down to the basics. Cozy details in fuzzy monogrammed socks and cool lines were soothing to watch as they walked down the digital runway.
Dolce & Gabbana is a Sicilian Collage of Colour
Designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were inspired by the spectrum of cultures in Sicily, patchworking vivid patterns to mimic the coming together of customs in the fabric of the Italian island. #DGSicilianPatchwork graced their Instagram posts, showing how Metropol, the show’s location, was transformed into a fashion funhouse. It’s nearly impossible to focus on the looks, your eye gets pulled to each of the bright details in a frenzy to take it all in before the next model makes her way down. The virtual fashion show was eye candy to say the least celebrating “Fatto a Mano” or homemade.
Lead image courtesy of Instagram/missoni