Schiaparelli Presents Its Autumn Winter 2021/22 ‘Matador’ Couture Collection

Last season, Schiaparelli deconstructed the boundaries of couture; this season, the Maison redefined them…

Schiaparelli unveiled their Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021/22 collection, ‘The Matador’ this morning in Paris, as creative director Daniel Roseberry’s creations were brought to life in a visual presentation. Whilst paying homage to Elsa’s romantic vision that dates back to the 1930’s, the American designer juxtaposed the Maison’s earlier, more iconic shapes with exaggerated colours, silk faille roses and a pair of human lungs crafted from a web of capillaries dipped in gold. 

Whilst last year’s collection took a counterintuitive approach to the conventional beauty of haute couture, this year, the creative director of the House of Schiaparelli ‘felt the freedom to make something fiercely, undeniably, unapologetically pretty—because sometimes you have to rebel against beauty in order to return to it’. From embroidered barrel sleeves to a structured tulle skirt, the collection was the ultimate tribute to romance and luxury. 

The presentation featured numerous references to the House’s past, using many of the same techniques and materials. The black wool crepe curved-sleeve, which was heavily embroidered with silk roses, was a direct homage to the Jean Cocteau x Schiaparelli masterpiece from 1937, whilst look one featured a garment that had been crafted with vintage Schiaparelli swatches each carefully collaged together. 

As the collection progressed, however, the pieces epitomised haute couture in the beauty of their complexities. Whilst a black stretch velvet dress featured a gigantic silk faille rose at its centre, it was the accessories that truly grabbed our attention: from a minaudière shaped like a giant pair of lips to a belt clasp with a cast hand, Schiaparelli’s designs were both nostalgic and innovative in their nature. 

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Images supplied.