Meet The South Asian Designers Who Are Taking The Luxury Fashion Market By Storm
Through cultural integration and craftsmanship, designers from India and Pakistan are shaping the future of luxury fashion in Dubai, one of the world’s most dynamic markets
The Middle East is magnetic. Just ask one of the millions who emigrate each year, each looking to carve out a home in this vibrant and cosmopolitan land. For many, their first stop is Dubai—the perfect stepping stone into the Middle East. In fact, such has been the influx in recent years that now Indians and Pakistanis (together) make up nearly 40 per cent of the population of Dubai.
The result? A thriving city that South Asian designers are keen to capitalise on. “The cultural and economic fit of the region, with varied nationalities, makes it an attractive destination for fashion brands,” says Mukta Shahdadpuri, co-founder of The Collective, a curated exhibition experience service. “Its diverse population, including Arabs who appreciate Indian fashion and aesthetics, makes it a central point for these brands to reach a larger market,” referring to the number of Indian and Pakistani designers who have set up flagship stores or host private exhibitions across the region.
This could not have been done without the region’s support—recent investment into the fashion and lifestyle sectors has further provided a platform for collaborations and partnerships, allowing South Asian designers a broader market reach than ever before. Coupled with the longstanding cultural and economic ties between South Asia and the Middle East, it allows for a smooth expansion due to key similarities—particularly an appreciation for intricate textiles and craftsmanship.
“Designers are finding further successes by integrating with the local cultures and adapting to the Middle East,” says Masoom Minawala Mehta, influencer and entrepreneur who moved to Dubai last year. “Success is met by being malleable,”she adds. Here, we meet a few of the designers who have extended their footprint to the Middle East…
Lovebirds
The Functionalists
Lovebirds by Gursi Singh and Amrita Khanna believe in making clothes that prioritise functionality over trends. “From the start, our brand principles have aligned with the Middle Eastern market,” explains Gursi, who just began retailing on Ounass, allowing them to reach a growing GCC clientele.
Shop at lovebirds-studio.com and Ounass.com
Tarun Tahiliani
The Visionary
“As the world becomes more global and fashion ceases to be ethnic, it [fashion] will begin to transcend boundaries, and silhouettes will start to influence each other,” muses Tarun, who’s credited with redefining contemporary Indian fashion due to his ability to fuse traditional craftmanship with tailored silhouettes. “Arab women are some of the most sophisticated and chic shoppers in the world. I believe in time you’ll see more and more South Asian designers entering the Middle East.”
Shop at taruntahiliani.com
Amit Aggarwal
The Futurist
“The euphoric social life of the Middle East generates demand for unique event and occasion wearers,” explains Amit Aggarwal, who has exhibited in the Middle East since 2018. His iconic designs featuring sculptural silhouettes that challenge the existing human form have become firm celebrity favourites on and off the red carpet.
“There’s a strong demand for high quality, exclusive fashion products that indicate status and sophistication,” explains the designer.
Shop at amitaggarwal.com
Gaurav Gupta
The Modernist
For celebrity favourite Gaurav Gupta, it’s all about the natural synergy between the two regions. “The Middle East shares a deep cultural connection with South Asia, and there’s a genuine appreciation for craftsmanship, luxury and ornate design. It feels like a natural progression for South Asian designers to be here, where their work is understood and celebrated,” he explains. The brand, which regularly hosts trunk shows across the region, has developed a loyal local and expat following and will soon launch at Bloomingdale’s UAE.
Shop at gauravguptastudio.com
Sania Maskatiya
The Seeker
“There’s nowhere quite like Dubai,” explains Sania, who recently started retailing on Ounass. From her bold, printed co-ord sets to her embroidered kaftans and jalabiyas, she tailors her designs to suit the season, all the while staying true to the brand’s signature styles. “Dubai is vibrant and growing, and I’m excited for what’s next.”
Shop at saniamaskatiya.com
Nida Azwer
The Revivalist
“The Middle East consumer is incredibly discerning. They are always looking for something unique,” says Nida. A true revivalist, Nida is renowned for bringing back and updating traditional craft techniques such as zardozi and rilli, elevating them to suit today’s silhouettes.
“Over the last 12 years, I have built a strong clientele in the Middle East,” explaining that she often hosts solo exhibitions across the region.
Shop at nidaazwer.com
Faraz Manan
The Pioneer
When Faraz opened his first flagship store in Dubai over 10 years ago, few other South Asian designers were available in the region. “At the time, there were only a couple of multi-brand stores,” he reminisces. I wanted potential clients to truly experience the brand.” Today, Faraz has dressed celebrities and socialites alike with his inimitable collection of delicate pastels and tonal embellishments.
Shop at farazmanan.com
Rahul Mishra
The Magician
The first Indian fashion designer to show at Paris Couture Week, Rahul Mishra has been breaking global boundaries with his ability to conjure up majestical creations that pay homage to Indian craftsmanship. “There’s a genuine sense of luxury, authenticity and inclusivity in the region,” says Rahul, who strives to create designs that are global yet deeply connected to the Indian sensibility.
Shop at rahulmishra.in
Anita Dongre
The Dreamer
Anita Dongre has always had a knack for sewing. Today, she has managed to transform that skill into a global fashion powerhouse. “When entering this market, it was important for me to understand the Middle Eastern woman and what she wants. While there are so many similarities, there are also deeper cultural nuances that are different, which make it exciting to design for.”
Shop at anitadongre.ae
Misha Lakhani
The Storyteller
Rooted in traditional craftsmanship, Misha Lakhani’s eponymous brand creates intricately crafted designs that fuse tradition with modernity. “We wanted our clients to immerse themselves in the brand and understand us,” she explains, referring to her newly opened Dubai flagship—a sun-drenched, art-filled space that evokes a sense of serenity and calm. There is a lot of synergy between our cultures. The styles we carry here are for the global nomad with a love for the artisanal and the versatile.”
Shop at mishalakhani.com
Images: supplied
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s October 2024 issue