Copenhagen Fashion Week, the home of our favourite Scandi brands, did not disappoint for spring/summer 2020. From dancing in the rain at Ganni to seeing one of city's most diverse catwalks ever at Stine Goya, it was a season to remember. Here we chart the highlights from the shows.
Ganni celebrated a major milestone this season, as husband-and-wife duo Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup marked 10 years since they took first over the label. Since then, they've built up the Scandi brand to become a household name and a favourite among fashion's most stylish women. For this reason, the Ganni show is often a highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week and for spring/summer 2020, it was a veritable party. The new collection had an unapologetically '70s vibe; we saw cardigan vests worn over shirts with big collars and Ganni's must-have animal-print knee-high boots teamed with leather shorts and miniskirts. Danish singer MØ performed as some of fashion's biggest names danced in the pouring rain along with models from the show. It was one of the most memorable finales to date.
As always, the Cecilie Bahnsen show was one of the most elegant moments of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Her spring collection boasted both her classic style and some experimental designs. Each season, Bahnsen evolves her signature creations – dresses with volume and architectural silhouettes, full skirts, balloon sleeves and peplums. This collection was a palette of black, white, lemon-yellow and blush pinks and, for the first time, she introduced tailoring – a subtle injection of masculinity which sat alongside the hyper-feminine dresses. Her creations are bold, but they never stray too far from wearability. She explained to Bazaar backstage: "I want my designs to be worn on any occasion and add something more to the everyday. I saw a girl wearing one of our dresses riding her bike and she looked mesmerising - moments like that is why I design."
By Malene Birger
By Malene Birger's ‘Wild is the Wind’ show featured sumptuous fabrics and glamorous summertime looks. It was inspired by 1960s silhouettes, artisanal detailing and played on sophistication. Mathilda Torp Mader, the Danish designer, who is based between London and Copenhagen, displayed a solid understanding of classic American sportswear within the collection. Baseball hats were crafted from a basket weave, which added a playful edge to the sporty ensembles and highlighted Mader’s appealing way of infusing something unique into familiar aesthetics. Overall, the slightly undone Copenhagen look blended with classic silhouettes and made for the ideal summer wardrobe.
Stine Goya's spring show was vibrant in every sense of the word. From the clothes to the decorations, bright hues of green, yellow, orange, pink and blue were everywhere. There were prints too – we saw polka dots, ruffled mini dresses, florals and mismatched tights, while every model wore platform disco heels. The last look of the collection was classic Goya – a ballgown with bright floral motifs. In addition to this, Goya had one of the most diverse model castings for her show, as, instead of a typical casting, she invited members of ballroom communities to appear on the catwalk. She also partnered with the networking app Bumble, selecting a number of women who applied to model through the online platform to walk. The resulting line-up was about as diverse as Copenhagen has ever been.
This sport-inspired label favours simplicity and clean lines, a contrast to many other brands at Copenhagen Fashion Week who personify 'more is more' approach. Holzweiler is more utilitarian, with a vision that adheres with traditional notions of minimalist Scandinavian style. At their show they took this mantra to the next level, as the designers handed out phone holders in an effort to get their guests to shut off for a few minutes.
Titled 'Lala Island', this collection was an exploration of how we merge cultural identities and celebrated a free, no-boundaries utopia where tolerance and free spirits reign. This idea was reflected in the colour scheme, which saw soft pastels such as lilac, pink and blue come together with vivid oranges and bright reds. These colourful elements were combined with earthy neutrals like sandy white, olive and coconut brown to create a lush vacation-inspired palette. The silhouettes were made to evoke subtle references to the late 1960s jet-set culture: lace-up details, linen suiting and voluminous sleeves gave the collection a feminine and elegant frame, while the vegan gladiator sandals and mules were designed in collaboration with Unützer, an Italy-based shoe manufacturer.
For spring/summer 2020, designers Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts were drawn to the feminine, mysterious and extremely powerful qualities that they believe Spanish and Hispanic women possess, to create a collection entitled “Latin Gala”. The styles emphasised the female body with fitted high-waisted trousers, short biker-like jackets, oversized coats and strapless corsets. Denim was introduced this season for the first time, including in the form of an oversized jacket with a big cursive Saks Potts logo on the back made of rhinestones. Rhinestones, in fact, were a key part of the collection, including for the last look of the show, which was an extravagant cowgirl-inspired outfit with sparkling show-stopping boots.
This year, Brøgger debuted its second catwalk show during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Designer Julie Brøgger drew nostalgic inspiration from the strong women of her childhood, focusing on memories of the second-wave feminists. Keeping within the theme of contrasting modern femininity and masculinity, oversized pleated organza slip dresses were layered over tailored trousers, while androgynous shirts were worn with delicate, ruched dresses. There was a focus on statement shoulders, enhancing the volume of Brøgger signature suiting, as a nod to the power dressing of the 1980s businesswoman. Key pieces from the collection included a new puff-shoulder blazer suit which is made in both wool and taffeta checks, paired with wide-leg shorts.
Rotate closed Copenhagen Fashion Week in style once again, this time putting on a show in a sparkling circus tent complete with disco balls and streamers to get the audience into the party spirit. The collection was all about statement dresses that celebrated fun and everyday glamour. For their spring collection, designers Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Madsen took inspiration from '50s fashion patterns but with a modern twist, adding daring hemlines and untraditional fabrics juxtaposed with raw denim and soft jacquards.
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