10 Untold Stories About Bulgari’s Serpenti Collection

An emblematic figure in ancient myths and legends, the serpent-inspired collection plays an integral part in Bulgari’s esteemed heritage

This year, Bulgari is celebrating its 140 year anniversary, shining a spotlight on its deeply-embedded rich cultural history, and the influential legacy it has cultivated through time.

The Italian luxury goods producer is known for its innovative craftsmanship and exceptional artistry, giving rise to the iconographic Serpenti design, which first made an appearance nearly 76 years ago.

Launched in 1948, the slithering motif has since grown to be one of the Maison’s most cherished emblems and stands as a testament to the timeless allure of the house.

The design is an infusion of the exceptional qualities that makes Bulgari what it is today – romance, prestige, exotic materials, and continual renewal, like a snake shedding its skin.

The beloved Serpenti collection has been enchanting jewellery connoisseurs for decades, and not only has it shaped the history of Bulgari but inspired the entire jewellery industry as a whole.

In honour of this legendary design, here are ten fascinating stories about Bulgari Serpenti you might not know.

Symbolism Of The Snake

Revered throughout history as a symbol of protection, wisdom, rebirth, strength, and transformation, the snake is intrinsic to an array of myths and legends across different cultures – from the Pharaohs of Egypt to the gods of Greece and Rome. Aphrodite was known to wear a snake bracelet, while Cleopatra was renowned for her love of the reptilian creature. Amongst royalty, serpent motifs are often treasured for their symbolic attributes of power and prestige.

Fascinating Origins

The first Bulgari Serpenti design was launched in 1948. The Maison came out with a range of gold bracelet-watches that seductively coiled around the wearer’s wrist. By the 1950s, the design evolved to resemble a more realistic-looking serpent, featuring a detailed snake head adorned with rubies and emeralds.

The watch dial was thoughtfully positioned inside the mouth of the snake, giving it the reputation of being “a secret watch”, and allowing it to be worn as both a functional timepiece and luxurious piece of jewellery.

Over time, the bracelet-watches continued to evolve into more sophisticated designs, with the body of the snake engraved with scales. The designs were also set with colourful gemstones and enamel, making for a versatile range of vibrant designs.

Tubogas Technique

In the creation of the Serpenti, Bulgari revived an old artisanal technique known as Tubogas. The technique was inspired by the industrial gas carrier pipes that were used during the 1920s, and featured gold strips wrapped around a central core, giving the watch its characteristic, flexible structure. The strips were skilfully interlinked without soldering – and as the Serpenti watch rose in popularity, so too did the Tubogas technique garner widespread acclaim.

Into The Spotlight

By the 1960s, the Bulgari Serpenti cemented itself as a staple amongst Hollywood A-listers and fashionable elites. It was an appearance on the arm of Elizabeth Taylor that truly catapulted the piece beyond Rome and into the realm of celebrity. While filming Cleopatra in the Italian capital in 1962, the legendary actress was often spotted wearing the timepiece on set – a subtle nod towards the regal character she was embodying.

Following this appearance, the Serpenti captured the American market, with icons such as Andy Warhol and Diana Vreeland, former fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar US, championing the design.

Branded Designs

In the 1970s, Bulgari introduced another watch range titled Bulgari Bulgari, featuring the Maison’s engraved logo into the timepiece design. Its popularity skyrocketed and the brand then began engraving the logo into its Serpenti watches. The addition quickly became a defining feature of the timepiece, marking another milestone in the Serpenti legacy.

Exquisite Variations

The popularity of the original Serpenti watch was a catalyst for a range of successive jewellery pieces featuring the motif. By the 1960s, the watch was offered in both yellow gold and white gold enamel, along with diamond-encrusted versions adorned with colourful gemstones and enamel.

Today, the Serpenti motif is continually reinterpreted into exquisite jewellery pieces and items for everyday wear including rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets.

Luxury Leather Goods

In 2012, Bulgari instilled the Serpenti motif into a range of leather handbags. Available in different collections such as Serpenti Forever and Serpenti Hypnotic, the coveted shoulder bags feature geometric designs, studs, enable hardwear, and is fastened with a gold-plated serpent head closure that can be customised with a choice of precious stones. The bags come in an array of styles and colours, such as clutch and minaudière, and have been spotted on the likes of Bella Hadid and Olivier Palermo.

Customisable Designs

Under a process of continual metamorphosis, the Serpenti design was adapted for the 21st century back in 2017 through a customisable watch design. Buyers can now shop the timepiece online, choosing from a range of colours and materials, including rose gold and steel for the watch face, or Karung or calfskin for the strap, culminating in over 300 possible design combinations. You can also opt to get customised engraving on the case back, including one that mimics your signature.

Reimagined For Aeterna High Jewellery

To commemorate its 140th birthday in May, Bulgari unveiled the new Aeterna High Jewellery collection, featuring their latest take on the Serpenti motif: The Serpenti Aeterna necklace. The exquisite item took over 2800 hours to complete and is fashioned with seven diamond drops that weigh 140 carats in total. The drops are set within a wave-like design that features over 600 smaller baguette diamonds weighing nearly 62 carats.

High Profile Appearances

Today, the legendary design still features as an eye-catching accessory in red carpet ensembles. From Bella Hadid to Charlize Theron and Dua Lipa, Serpenti designs are go-to pieces for some of the world’s biggest, embodying the essence of glamour and prestige.

Zendaya famously donned a Serpenti necklace at the Venice Film Festival in 2021. The necklace was set on an enormous 93.83 carat diamond, which she paired with a figure-hugging wet-look gown. Her ensemble made headlines across the globe – reaffirming the timeless influence of Bulgari’s Serpenti collection.

Lead image

Photography: Vladimir Marti. Styling: Laura Jane Brown. Fashion Assistant: Imogene Legrand.

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s May 2023 issue