How Élégante Is This? Elizabeth Doerr On F.P. Journe’s Newest Timepieces

Bazaar’s watch columnist declares these new watches as the epitome of chic innovation

When François-Paul Journe introduced his first dedicated ladies watch as part of his boutique brand’s collection in 2014, it was polarising to say the least. The then-new Élégante was powered by a quartz movement (gasp!), it was housed in Journe’s patented flattened tonneau shape known as tortue – only seen otherwise in the watchmaker’s highly limited Vagabondage line – and it was expressly dedicated to women, a first for the French independent watchmaker in Geneva.

Let’s start with an explanation of that quartz movement because if you know this virtuoso watchmaker you would know it could never be run-of-the-mill quartz. Indeed, it is a patented movement that ‘hibernates’ when it is not being worn, which extends the battery’s life considerably. The well-thought-out functionality is powered by a patented electromechanical movement with a double-rotor motor that ‘sleeps’ after being motionless for 35 minutes, which extends the battery’s life so much that it allows F.P. Journe to guarantee an eight-year life (18 years in standby mode). All one needs to do is pick up the watch again to wake it back up, at which point the motionless hands immediately turn to the correct time without further intervention by the wearer. For Journe, functionality like this made a whole lot of sense in a ladies watch as women tend to ‘wardrobe’ their watches like jewellery (at least I do, and I’m sure I’m not alone).

“François – Paul Journe’s whole philosophy has been rooted in the past, although he wants to shape the future with ingenuity, acuity, and plain old common sense ”

The quartz movement is visible through the transparent case back and, compared to almost all other electronic movements, this one is a real looker with its solid pink-gold bridge finished with Geneva waves – a callback to the exquisite mechanical movements crafted by F.P. Journe. A golden heart is found on the circuit board above the processor, a lovely detail that significantly adds to the movement’s beauty and reminds us that electronic movements can also have a heart.

Turn the watch over and we find the sapphire crystal dial, which boasts signature F.P. Journe hands and font. But the most interesting detail, for me at least, is the little window near four o’clock revealing the motion detector for the hibernation function. It has been crafted in the form of an oscillating weight of the type found on an automatic watch to wind the movement; it is a visual nod to the opening that reveals the remontoir providing constant force in F.P. Journe’s early Tourbillon Souverain models. All of the mechanical parts of this movement are produced right in the F.P. Journe workshop, while the electronic part is made in Switzerland. The movement’s microprocessor was developed specifically for this watch.

For the past eight years, the watches in the F.P. Journe Élégante collection, which are beautifully proportioned for the feminine wrist, have been available in a variety of colours, materials, and diamond options. But that hasn’t stopped Journe from continuing to innovate with the looks of this interesting watch. In 2016, the boutique brand came out with a much larger (though incredibly wearable) size to accommodate potential clients with bigger wrists or just liking a bigger look (or men). And now in 2022, the watchmaker brings out two new versions of the original size that caught my eye.

These visuals are chiefly down to the use of titanium, which F.P. Journe has used in the Élégante line since day one, and in particular the Titalyt-treated titanium variation. Titalyt, used in aerospace and medical industries, is created by anodising titanium with electro-plasma oxidation, which not only makes the material even harder and resistant to wear, but it also transforms the metal into a colour that is close to black. This combined with rows of precisely cut and set colourless brilliantcut diamonds creates a look that is somehow weirdly vintage, while being absolutely space-age in concept. I hadn’t really realised this until I put the watch on myself and noticed how I was mesmerised by the look, even more so than with the natural titanium variation.

But it is not just the addition of a full package of diamonds – 604 for a total of 4.79 carats – on the interesting, trademarked case with its flat top and bottom, and pronounced angles. This new version also features a new bracelet that comprises a set of twelve titanium or Titalyt-coated links fully set with diamonds that end in an interchangeable rubber component that perfectly follows the shape of the wrist for maximum comfort. These rubber elements are available in eight colours: white, midnight-blue, burgundy, grey, yellow, black, orange, and powder-rose. François-Paul Journe’s whole philosophy has been rooted in the past, although he wants to  shape the future with ingenuity, acuity, and plain old common sense. The Élégante is a perfect example of this type of forward-thinking. And now it is even more chic and luxurious.

Elizabeth Doerr is the editor-in-chief of QuillAndPad.com, a digital publication that keeps a watch on time.

Photography: Alex Teuscher

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s November 2022 issue