Exclusive: Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli Talks Gemstone And Jewellery Trends

BY SOPHIE STEVENS / May 10 2017 / 19:08 PM

As the brand celebrates its fiftieth anniversary, the head of the Milanese jewellers sat down with Harper’s Bazaar Arabia at The Dubai Mall boutique to discuss what lies behind their latest collections

Exclusive: Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli Talks Gemstone And Jewellery Trends
Courtesy Pomellato
Pomellato's latest Ritratto collection
Exclusive: Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli Talks Gemstone And Jewellery Trends
Courtesy Pomellato
Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli

Harper’s Bazaar: Can you tell us about the new Ritratto line?

SB: The collection is inspired by the opulence and colour of the Maharajas’ jewellery, especially their “Portrait cut”. This is an antique Indian technique, so-called because the transparent gemstone was step-cut with a flat top that could cover miniature paintings.

Due to Pomellato’s gem-cutting expertise we were able to play on this style. The result is large, flat gemstones that are in keeping with Pomellato’s quintessential use of bold colours and an almost “naked” look to the stone.

The Ritratto collection currently comprises rings available in three sizes – small, medium and large – with earrings and pendants in quartz, London blue topaz and amethyst. In time we will produce new varieties to complement the existing line – a huge variety of gems is possible as well as a full pavé-set diamond version.

Pomellato Ritratto smoky quartz rings

Pomellato Ritratto rings in smoky quartz and diamonds

HB: Which gemstones do Pomellato typically use in their jewels?

SB: We are educating our customers about the "New Precious" gemstones beside the classic four (diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald). Aside from the fact that there are now limited supplies of these traditional gems, such as emeralds from Colombia, the value of alternative stones is also increasing, for example, Paraiba tourmalines and some garnets.

Pomellato has a long history in sourcing the best coloured gemstones. We have our own in-house Gem Master, Stefano Cortecci, who travels the world finding these gems, often going directly to the mines themselves.

It is also very important to Pomellato that we demonstrate strong sustainability practices around our gemstone and gold choices. We have received certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council and have recently started a project with Gemfields.

Pomellato Ritratto pendant

Pomellato Ritratto pendants in London blue topaz and amethyst with diamonds

HB: Can you tell us more about Pomellato’s latest campaign shot by photographer Peter Lindbergh?

SB: Peter shoots black and white portraits featuring models with almost no make up on and no retouching, so that the images show the true beauty and self of each woman. This campaign features genuine women with real jobs, including an art curator, a painter, writer, finance advisor – all beautiful, self-accomplished women. These images are a new way of creating a dialogue with our clients based on truth and authenticity.

HB: What is Pomellato’s history and activity in the Middle East?

SB: Pomellato has long worked with Al Tayer in Dubai and the whole region is very important to us. We notice an extremely high level of sophistication in fashion and style here, with an attitude to always be your best. Women here are unparalleled in their exuberant choices of colours, styles and brands.

There is also an increasing number of young consumers here who are wanting to differentiate themselves. Classic jewellery such as the eternal combination of platinum and diamonds will always have a place, but we are seeing these customers becoming bolder in their fashion choices. We are therefore seeing tastes for the bursts of colour seen throughout Pomellato’s designs.

Pomellato campaign shot by Peter Lindbergh

Pomellato's latest advertising campaign featuring women shot by photographer Peter Lindbergh

HB: Are you noticing any other jewellery trends in particular at the moment?

SB: Women today are increasingly bold, audacious and free, and feeling the need to express their personality more. This results in a demand for statement pieces that only luxury brands can provide.

Rarely will today’s woman wear a traditional suit to the office – they’re more adventurous, and they need their jewels to match. “Big”, “bold”, and “more is more” are back in fashion and Pomellato jewellery is perfect for this – it’s very versatile and can be worn for today’s range of formal and casual occasions.