How To Curate A Costume Jewellery Collection That Will Last

Four cool and contemporary designers share their tips on how to care for scintillating collections of semi-precious and demi-fine jewels

There are some jewellery items that simply shouldn’t be skimped on. A demi-fine engagement ring? Definitely won’t last until-death-do-us-part. Investment pieces are named as such for a reason—prioritising quality and durability when it comes sentimental pieces that must last forever makes sense financially and emotionally. Solid gold items will indeed last many lifetimes, without any need for re-plating or replacing.

In which case, why buy fashion and demi-fine jewellery? When bought astutely, costume jewels should complement your fine jewellery collection like yin and yang—while pieces may not last for decades, they are a more affordable way to instantly update your collection with seasonal trends.

Costume jewels can also still become iconic in their own right—just look at Bottega Veneta’s now ubiquitous silver drop earrings, now available in multiple sizes and reinvented in different finishes for the last few seasons. The original tear drop design, worn by everyone from the Kardashians to Dua Lipa and Hayley Bieber, has dominated social media since it was first launched in A/W 22, and almost single-handedly prompted the revival of chunky silver over the last two years.

Let’s also not forget how useful fashion jewellery is for travel. Rather than taking the family jewels on vacation—which brings its own complications in terms of security and insurance charges—demi-fine and semi-precious jewels can be packed up at a moment’s notice without any worry.

Buying the best costume jewellery and ensuring its longevity is, however, a fine art. We spoke to four semi-precious and demi-fine jewellery designers to get their tips on creating an exquisite collection of wear-me-everywhere jewels that will last. 

Learn The Difference Between Gold-Plate And Vermeil

“Demi-fine designers are akin to the indie filmmakers of the jewellery world, blending artistry and quality with an accessible price point. They focus on craftsmanship, using precious metals and stones, creating pieces that seamlessly blend luxury and everyday wear,” explains Rachel Loren, founder of Loren Stewart. “While fine jewellery is often reserved for special occasions, demi-fine pieces are designed for daily wear—they’re versatile and easy to style, like a second skin. You still get to enjoy beautiful, high-quality materials and unique designs, but without the pressure of making a huge financial commitment. It’s luxury you can live in, without the need to be overly cautious or serious about it,” she enthuses.

Rachel’s mantra for buying the right pieces? Get to know your metals and materials. “Gold-plated and vermeil jewellery might both have a golden hue, but they’re quite different once you look closer,” she says. “Some ‘gold-plated’ jewellery might not actually contain real gold. Manufacturers can use metals like brass or copper and apply a gold-tone finish with a chemical treatment to mimic the appearance of gold, by electroplating with a non-gold alloy that just looks gold. So, while it may shine brightly, it doesn’t necessarily have any real gold in it,” she explains.

The Los Angeles-based designer, famed for her ultra-luxe yet laidback collections of everyday classics, stresses that decoding each jewel’s composition is key. “Understanding the difference matters because it can impact the durability, quality, and price. Typically, gold-plated jewellery has a very thin layer of gold (often 0.5 microns or less) over a base metal. This thin layer tends to wear off quickly with regular use,” she explains.

“In contrast, vermeil is more upscale and more valuable. It involves coating sterling silver with a premium, thick layer of gold, usually 14-karat, 18-karat, or even 24-karat, with a gold layer around 2.5 microns thick. This makes vermeil more durable and longer-lasting, especially with proper care.” When buying new pieces be sure to check what they’re made of, as this will help you tailor your care and treatment of each piece.

Limit Exposure To Lotions And Perfume

Founded by Lebanese-born design Leen Abdelnour in 2018, LYNYER’s collections are inspired by nature and travel, and are brought to life in brass plated with 24-karat gold. Leen champions the wearability of her designs, but highlights that certain parts of the body will place less stress upon plated jewels. “Vermeil and gold-plated jewellery can absolutely withstand daily wear, especially earrings, since they do not sit on the skin directly and are not as exposed to sweat and perfume; necklaces and rings tend to be more exposed to sweat, water, and body oils,” she explains.

Leen advises that jewels should be removed for working out and showering, and that with sensible care, gold-plating can last up to 8-10 years. “Avoid spraying perfume directly on the jewellery, but spraying your perfume from a distance is okay. Wiping the pieces and putting them back in a cotton pouch that we provide will also extend the life of the pieces,” she adds.

Prevent Wear And Tear With Proper Storage

The renaissance of silver-toned jewels is also in no small part thanks to LIÉ STUDIO, a cult Copenhagen-based brand famed for its modern, sculptural designs. Twin sisters Amalie and Cecilie Moosgaard founded the brand in 2021, and believe proper storage and care is key to maintaining the shine on plated pieces. “While vermeil, gold-plated, and silver-plated jewellery can add a stylish touch to your outfits, they are clearly not as durable as solid gold or sterling silver pieces,” explains Cecilie. “However, this doesn’t mean they lack longevity. This type of jewellery simply requires careful handling and proper storage to ensure they last through everyday wear. We believe that with proper care, plated metal jewellery can maintain its original beauty for many years.”

Their golden rules? “Avoid activities that could expose your jewellery to scratches. Remove it before bed, showering, and washing your hands. We always recommend that our customers preserve their jewellery in a pouch or case when not in use to avoid oxidation too,” says Amalie. “Additionally, store your jewellery in a dry space, and avoid bathrooms or other humid areas, as steam and moisture can affect the plating over time.”

Take Extra Care Of Cubic Zirconia

Anna Jewsbury, founder of Completedworks, has garnered a loyal following for her cool and contemporary jewels set with glittering cubic zirconia. These man-made stones can remain scintillating for many years, if given the right care. “Similar to the recommendations for gold vermeil jewellery, try to avoid getting the stones wet and avoid contact with soap, moisturiser, and perfume,” she explains. “Cubic zirconia stones are not as hard as diamonds, so for cleaning I would recommend a soft brush, cleaning just with water and a small amount of mild soap.”

Good storage is also paramount for synthetic stones. “Try an air tight jewellery box or container ideally with dividers to separate each piece from other, so that scratches don’t occur. We usually also recommend placing a small packet of desiccant crystals in the box alongside the jewellery too, especially if you live in a humid climate.”

Anna believes that always putting your jewellery on last, after moisturiser and make-up, will make a big difference to the longevity of demi-fine pieces, and looking for brands that offer a repair and restore service will allow your to wear them on rotation for many years. “When you love something, you don’t throw it away or replace it. You mend it.”

Lead Image Courtesy Of Instagram / @haileybieber