How To Make Your Engagement Ring Utterly Unique
A round solitaire diamond is a timeless choice, but diamond cutting is now going to the next level with never-seen-before silhouettes and new fancy shapes
While many women will have always envisaged receiving a classic round diamond solitaire upon their engagement, avant-garde diamond cutting trends suggest that there is burgeoning demand for one-of-a-kind creations that will stand apart in a sea of identikit stones.
For several decades, the vast majority of engagement rings have featured diamonds that fall into one of 10 principal cuts; round, oval, pear, heart, marquise, cushion, Asscher, emerald, princess, or radiant cut. These cuts have, however, evolved over the ages with the advent of new technologies. Centuries ago, gemstones were cut using only the hand-tools available, and each stone was shaped to achieve simply the most beautiful look to the naked eye, whereas today diamonds are precision-cut to deliver particular credentials in terms of their carat size, symmetry, clarity and colour for quality certification purposes.
Inevitably, as digital scanning software and laser cutting innovation has improved, what would have been unimaginable to previous generations of lapidaries is now becoming an extraordinary reality. Notable diamantaire House of Gems, founded in Singapore in 1986, recently unveiled an eye-catching stone that illustrates just how far technology has come – the maison has partnered with Sanrio Hong Kong to produce a one-of-a-kind Hello Kitty Diamond, to celebrate 50 years of the pop-cult cartoon phenomenon. This feat follows a series of flowers and animal-inspired stones – including even a rhino – that will join its roster of unusual silhouettes and rare coloured diamonds.
Misfit Diamonds, a Vancouver-based diamantaire is also catering to worldwide demand for diamonds that break the mould. Misfit specialises in silhouettes that go beyond the traditional line up while still feeling elegant and timeless. Kite, shield, hexagon, trilliant, lozenge, and modern French cuts are just a few of Misfit’s alternatives, ideal for those who wish to select an unusual stone and commission a bespoke ring setting.
Another increasingly popular choice are ‘portrait diamonds’, which requires delicately slicing exceptionally clear rough stones to create a flawless, window-like pane, rather than shaping the stone into a 3-D silhouette with many facets. These ultra-high quality diamonds are an excellent option for those seeking an investment piece with a subtle, understated look, and their sleek contours are perfect for those who like to remain minimalist with their fine jewellery styling.
Major brands are also exploring proprietary cuts to achieve uniquely shaped diamonds that serve as a symbol of their illustrious heritage and prestige. Louis Vuitton’s ‘LV Diamonds’ fine jewellery collection showcases the maison’s ‘LV Monogram Star-Cut’ – this floral silhouette flaunts 53 facets and elegant pointed tips, bringing the brand’s star-shape monogram flower to life in scintillating splendour.
“This is the very first time that by just looking at a diamond from far away you know this is a Louis Vuitton diamond,” says Francesca Amfitheatroff, the maison’s artistic director of watches and jewellery, who is now employing this exclusive diamond cut in both the maison’s fine and high jewellery collections.
British-Columbia-based jewellery brand VRAI is bringing this bespoke, fashion-inspired approach to the lab-grown diamond market, offering a 15-day turnaround made-to-measure ‘Cut for You’ service that allows customers to tailor and track their diamond from right from the rough stone through to the finished ring. With a choice of 30 different silhouettes, the brand allocates a rough stone best suited to each selected shape and begins the cutting, polishing and setting process, according to the customer’s unique requirements.
Technological advances aren’t, however, the only way to achieve a totally unique diamond. Antique diamonds such as old mine cuts are in finite supply, and these stones offer a different calibre of sparkle compared to their modern counterparts. Guy Burton, managing director of Hancocks London is an expert in these older, natural marvels.
“Old cuts are unique and offer a one-of-a-kind romance that you can only find with an antique diamond,” he explains. “The most exceptional ones that we select for our collection are wonderfully lively, originally created to be appreciated in candlelight, and cut when proportions were not dictated by exact percentages, but to create the maximum beauty from that individual stone.” If ‘one-of-a-kind’ is an important factor, then Guy recommends exploring old cut stones for both their beauty and circular economy credentials. “Each one has its own life, character and charm… we rarely see people come to us and learn about old cuts and then opt for a modern counterpart,” he explains. “There is also the eco-friendly element that is so important to consider today – these old cuts have been around for a long time – quite simply, recycled diamonds and gemstones are the most environmentally responsible choice.”
Whether looking to the future, or turning to artisans of the past, it is entirely possible to find a singular stone that reflects the uniqueness of your love story – you just have to find “the one.”
Lead image courtesy of Instagram / @taylorswift
