How to… Style Your Watch Like a Fashion Editor
For over 75 years, Bvlgari’s Serpenti has reigned supreme as an icon of timeless glamour in the watchmaking world
What would the festive season be without the humble sequin? Synonymous with Christmas soirées, sequins are practically a meteorological phenomenon in the fashion world – you can tell the time of year by how many are shed on the floor. Once the party season is in full swing, jewellery watches similarly become ubiquitous, but there are few that outshine Bvlgari’s Serpenti secret timepieces.
First unveiled in 1948, Serpenti jewels and watches have enthralled many of Hollywood’s most influential leading ladies – from Elizabeth Taylor in the 1960’s to the maison’s current global brand ambassador, Zendaya. The Serpenti was a disruptor in the world of watchmaking and turned heads with its supple silhouette and seductive curves— it stood out from the era’s sea of round dials and conservative leather straps. The Serpenti’s ‘Tubogas’ coils – which translate as ‘gas pipe’ from Italian – explored a new, utilitarian aesthetic that felt avant-garde, while its gold and flawless gem-setting delivered glamour in spades.
The Serpenti has been reimagined ad infinitum ever since, yet each iteration still manages to feel fresh and surprising; especially since Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s executive director of watch design, joined the maison in 2001. Almost a quarter of a century later, Fabrizio has revisited the Serpenti Pallini, which was first launched in 1955 and flaunted a five-turn coil that slithered up the wrist. The three new models, crafted in rose, yellow, and white gold, fittingly embody the spirit of the sequin – their scintillating scales are composed of miniature metal beads and diamonds individually set on gold mesh, replicating the 18th century ‘en tremblant’ technique, which allows each gemstone to delicately dance as its wearer moves.
As impressive as its exquisite aesthetic, is the watch’s Piccolissimo movement – conceived by Bvlgari’s Manufacture in Le Sentier, Switzerland, it is the world’s smallest ever mechanical movement, and gives the serpent its own miniature beating heart. Measuring just 2.5mm thick and weighing a mere 1.3 grams, the calibre can even be swivelled by half a turn to allow the watch to be worn on either wrist. It’s no wonder that each watch in the trilogy required over 500 hours of painstaking artisanry by the maison’s crack team of master-craftsmen, especially the white gold model, which features almost 67 carats of the finest white diamonds.
When it comes to event-dressing ensembles, what could possibly do justice to the Serpenti’s high octane shine? Rabanne’s sequin mini dress and fringed headpiece definitely embody its audacious spirit, while Fendi’s sequin Baguette bag and Amina Muaddi’s over-the-knee boots will make for a decadent colour palette joyfully reminiscent of a chocolate orange. Minimalists may prefer to rely on simple separates crafted in luxe fabrics such as Blazé Milano’s velvet blazer, or add a touch of irreverence with Saint Laurent’s pom-pom slingbacks, and allow the watch to bring the bling. While the Serpenti certainly does deliver on pizzazz, it also carries some potent symbolism; snakes are associated with strength, protection, and perhaps most importantly, rebirth – the perfect timepiece to ring in the New Year with gusto.
From Harper Bazaar Arabia’s December 2024 Issue
Styling by Charlotte Marsh-Williams