The AW24 Jewellery Trend Report

As the final weeks of summer draw to a close, we look ahead to the incoming trends from the AW24 runway collections

It was Donatella Versace who famously said, “Wear a fabulous smile, great jewellery, and know that you are utterly in control.” This feels like a mantra to cling to as we usher in the new season. As global unrest rages on, ready-to-wear designers seemed reluctant to err too far into the realm of fantasy for the AW24 runway collections, and rather than distract us with escapist revelries, decided to offer up collections of ‘real’ clothes; sensible separates, heritage fabrics, plenty of tailoring and ultra-comfortable coats that feel familiar—possibly even protective—during this troubled epoch. Even eveningwear felt somewhat restrained, with Le Smoking firmly re-established as the chicest choice for after-dark dressing, with just the occasional glimmer from glitter flecked, tinsel-like fabrics.

If the fashion was restrained and refined, perhaps designed from the head, then the jewellery came straight from the heart. Loud and long earrings swept across the shoulders and statement cuffs were stacked on both wrists in twos and threes, while jumbo chains, utilitarian-chic chokers and layered necklaces adorned the neck and décolletage. The collections’ overarching earthy colour palette was complemented by a mix of metal tones, and many pieces—including low swinging pendants and asymmetric earrings—bore metals shaped into elaborate sculptures.

While the clothes felt exceptionally considered, the jewellery felt like a chance to enjoy a small, frivolous flourish, perhaps providing a little light against the dark. Jewellery is, after all, inherently superfluous, but this is its super power. Able to distract and delight, and induce child-like wonder in many a grown woman, it is often the finishing touch to an outfit that changes our mindset and mentality; it feels like the full stop on a sentence that prepares us to face the day. So for AW24, don’t be afraid to indulge in a few things that shine— let them bolster your spirit, and help you put on that smile.

AW24: The Jewellery Trend Report

Plunging Pendants

A low-swinging necklace is the ultimate trans-seasonal piece that will complement almost any neckline, so if you invest in a timeless design now, it will see you through autumn/winter and well into spring. Christian Dior’s D-Pépite necklace was worn over roll neck sweaters and bore a tactile, pearl-shaped pendant elegantly stamped with the brand’s logo, while Jason Wu’s antique-look ring pendants strung on frayed ropes offered an heirloom feel. At Missoni pendants plunged to the waist, while Fendi, Givenchy and Gabriella Hearst presented pendants on long black cords; the most dominant design of the season.

Jumbo Chains

When it comes to chains for AW24, more is more. Ultra-large links were pumped up to epic proportions, in a wide range of metal tones. The devil is, however, in the detail, as chains were hammered, engraved and etched to feel a littler more rugged and worn-in than the sleek oversized styles of AW23. For incurable maximalists, there were jumbo chains that boasted pendants too— Roberto Cavalli’s bore chunks of crystal that had an amulet-esque quality.

Asymmetric Earrings

The asymmetric earring trend of AW23 remains ubiquitous this season, with many designers experimenting with striking, sculptural shapes on one lobe, balanced with a much more petite piece on the opposite side. At Fendi, a single earring was contrasted with an opposing double ear cuff, playing with height as well as scale, while at Etro, ears bore dramatic gold face figurines. Mismatched earrings were the most creative canvas across all the collections, featuring everything from miniature Statue of Liberty and yellow taxi cab trinkets at Coach, to a giant glittering peacock feather at Zimmermann.

Layered Necklaces

Necklaces were layered aplenty on the SS24 runways, but they boasted a distinctly bohemian feel. Now, the trend has evolved to capture a little more grunge from the early noughties, with blackened metals, dark gemstones, black cords and silver playing a much more pivotal role. When curating the perfect slew, it’s imperative you start with a choker and work your way down—choose two or three pieces that hold their own space before they reach the ribs, and don’t shy away from large charms and pendants.

Cuff Coupling

The large and loud bracelet trend continues, but this season the trend has been taken one step further; one statement cuff per arm is no longer enough, and both wrists should be adorned. With an armour-like quality—reminiscent of Wonder Woman’s signature accessories—this season’s souped up bangles were made of smooth resin, glossy metals and modern, man-made materials that give a satisfying clatter when stacked high.

Chandelier Earrings

The chandelier earring is back, but you can choose whether to go full candelabra or opt for a more subtle silhouette. At Schiaparelli, monochrome earrings gently flared, while at Louis Vuitton the classic chandelier was back in full force, and at Prabal Gurung its proportions had been inflated with gusto. The perfect companion to denim or evening tailoring, a neutral pair of chandelier earrings will serve almost any outfit—add to this season’s long-haired shearling coats for the most opulent take on outerwear.

Chokers

Since the penchant for ’90s-inspired jewels reared its head a few seasons back, the choker has reigned supreme. For AW24 the choker has been given an added edge with studs, metal folds and chain links. At Gucci, every look was sent down the runway with a choker that matched its ensemble, featuring cog-like circlets of metal worn over a wisp of fabric carefully colour matched to the ready-to-wear on show. At Chanel, the statement choker—layers of large pearls and chunky chains— was the most prominent style, but slender strings of pearls with heart shape pendants and the interlocking C logo offered a less punchy take on the trend.

Shoulder-Skimming Earrings

There are long earrings, and then there are AW24 long earrings. If they aren’t skimming your shoulders or collarbone, then you need to go longer. Jil Sander whisked us back to the Y2K days of chainmail handkerchief necklaces, pairing them with glinting strands suspended from each ear—an aesthetic echoed at Off-White—meanwhile at Carolina Hererra no fewer than 12 looks were punctuated with a pair of black beaded earrings that tumbled down to the chest. If you buy one piece this season then let it be a sensational pair of earrings that add a sashay to your step – they’re the ultimate one-and-done jewel.

Imagery Courtesy Of Jason Lloyd Evans