An Ode to Milan: Pomellato’s New High Jewellery Collection Celebrates Urban Essence and Creative Soul

From symmetrical skyscrapers to joyous opulence; Pomellato celebrates Milan’s intriguing dualism via its latest high jewellery collection

Milan was its birthplace in 1967, it’s where its artisans still painstakingly hand-make every piece, highlighting skills and styles intrinsically associated with this bustling metropolis, and it’s where the team’s inspiration stems from on a daily basis. So is it any wonder that, for Pomellato’s latest high jewellery showcase, creative director Vincenzo Castaldo paid homage to the Italian city? The Duality of Milan to be precise.

Carla Bruni, Hande Ercel, Lucy Hale, Benedetta Porcaroli, Philippine Leroy Beaulieu, Janice Man and Jodie Turner Smith were just some of the celebrity friends and clients of the maison present for the grand unveiling at Museo della Permanente in June, hosted by CEO Sabina Belli.

The geometry of glass skyscrapers and austere urban architecture were translated into striking, eminently wearable designs, while at the opposite end of the spectrum were colourful stone-bedecked pieces that highlighted the vibrancy and creativity of the city, with its medieval monuments and majestic Duomo.

New Horizons

“We started our adventure in high jewellery five years ago and creatively speaking, it was to express a part of the brand that was richer, more precious – to find a sublimation of our aesthetic,” Vincenzo muses when asked as to why the maison decided to launch this collection. “It was a chance to express even more about its history, about its philosophy and creative vision. It was to amplify our narrative. But obviously then we hoped we could translate this into business…” he laughs. Enthusiasm from core clients has ensured the gamble was vindicated.

Having this history and strong design codes was a “huge richness. A huge source of inspiration. Not a limit,” the creative insists emphatically. “It depends on how you use it. It can be a strength or a weakness if you are not able to translate the intention of the brand, in a contemporary environment and have your own personal interpretation.” Given Vincenzo’s special relationship with the brand – he has been at its helm since 2015 – he has an intrinsic knowledge; “this kind of privilege is absolutely a point of strength.”

Core Values

One point of difference between Pomellato and other brands is an emphasis on wearability. “This is one of my priorities,” Vincenzo tells us. “We always take into consideration whether a woman can wear this piece. It is embodied in our Milanese lifestyle and attitude. It is integral to our founder’s vision, to create beautiful jewels that can be very dressy but at the same time a woman can wear without an occasion or intimidation, like, say a tiara of diamonds.”

Touring the atelier where all the designs are brought to life, shows how the next collection is being shaped even as this one is just launching. Until one personally sees the painstaking skill, time and patience it takes for their in-house artisans to craft each piece, and the steps to completion, it is hard to convey the challenges that are overcome to achieve the final result. “It takes time,” agrees Vincenzo, which is an understatement. “Our founder was deeply rooted in goldsmith traditions so that is a fundamental part of our brand. The human factor.”

Regional Relevance

The 52-pieces – the biggest collection yet — launched in Milan were showcased to clients at the maison’s hub the next day. “People love the fact that no one else will have it,” we are told about the one-off pieces on sale. The brand launched its first Middle Eastern boutique in Dubai Mall two years ago and are keen to develop the marked, both in the high and fine jewellery spheres, knowing the region is full of connoisseurs and collectors.

Out of all the pieces on display, the rare spinels and firey colours of the Spinelli di Fuoco would appeal most strongly to the region. Vincenzo agrees it was one of the most challenging to create, along with the Barocco which features a 34-carat Paraiba tourmaline at its centre. “You have to find the perfect set of natural stones, and then the perfect structure for each of them. [It was tricky] to find the perfect second sequence of colours and shapes, putting different shapes together so little by little, we arrived at the final position. It was like a puzzle.” A puzzle that Vincenzo has solved with a flourish.

Imagery supplied by Pomellato