Desert Dreams: Saint Laurent Unveils Its Summer 2021 Collection

Amidst a backdrop of sand and dunes, creative director Anthony Vaccarello presents the French fashion house’s newest collection

Rolling sand dunes in an unknown desert and muted blue skies made up the epic backdrop of Saint Laurent’s Summer 2021 presentation.

With the front row replaced by sand dunes models walked effortlessly in the new collection, donning creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s creations.

Revisiting perhaps the most iconic time in Saint Laurent history, Anthony presents soft shapes and memories from the late ‘60s archives. Luxurious feather trims, sheer blouse, and the unforgettable Le Smoking tuxedo are revamped, paired with 2020’s quintessential biker short.

Created in 1966 by house founder Yves Saint Laurent, Le Smoking was the first tuxedo suit made for women. It pioneered a minimalist, powerfully androgenous style that cemented saint Laurent’s place in fashion history, long before the Instagram influencer’s chic pant-suit uniform. The effect of the suit was long lasting and, to this day, it is referred to as an important catalyst in women’s fashion and reflective of women’s movement during the 1960’s second wave feminism.

In a statement, the French fashion house noted it believes the collection bridges the turmoil of past decades to the unknown future. “I wanted to focus on the essence of things,” said Anthony. “I think it’s a sign of the times.”

The collection features a number of prints, an eye-catching red ensemble and a handful of neutral garments; but of the 66 looks presented in the season, 54 of them were either incorporated black with its print, trim, or styled with a statement black piece. 

For Saint Laurent’s creative director, the feeling of comfort and the flow of the garments allowing the freedom of movement are reflected not in the colour of the garments, but in the space for which they are showcased in.

“The desert,” said Anthony, “to me, symbolizes that yearn for serenity, open space, a slower rhythm. The clothes are also softer, the spirit of the collection is more gentle, stripped back.”

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