All The Highlights from Arab Fashion Week AW22

Harper’s Bazaar Arabia was at the shows and has rounded up the best moments from a week of glitz, glamour and high drama

If there’s one thing we took away from Arab Fashion Week, it’s that the region is bursting with creativity, innovation and talent. Diversity and inclusivity were championed throughout the week; not only was the cast of models on the catwalk as multicultural as the designers themselves, but with the naming of model Ameni Esseibi as the Arab Fashion Council’s first curvy Ambassador, a clear statement about size was also made.

Couture Shows SS22: March 24 – 25

Maram Borhan

Egyptian designer Maram Borhan kicked off two days of couture shows with her majestic bridal creations. The gowns, which each exuded exceptional elegance, were designed in a palette of soft pinks, lavenders and blues, with the occasional splash of fuchsia, red and blue.  

Giannina Azar

The Dominican designer who has Lebanese origins presented a collection of crystal-embellished gowns with pronounced, architectural silhouettes. It was an exquisite display of opulent eveningwear made for only the most special of occasions – we wouldn’t be surprised if some of these designs popped up on a red carpet here and there.

Ihab Jiryis

The Palestinian designer closed the first night of the couture shows with a bang. Of note was model Ninoska Vasquez’s opening look; she wore a majestic gold headpiece likening her to a sun goddess. The collection had a theatrical flair to it informed by Ihab’s background in costume design. Model, Ameni Esseibi took to the catwalk to close the show in a black mini dress with a sheer cape-like overlay.

Hian Tjen X Make Over

Influences from the designer’s Indonesian origins came across in his prints, beading and embroidery. His use of imaginative surrealist details such as hands spilling over one shoulder of a dress was at once provocative and humorous.

Michael Cinco

Michael Cinco’s serene and ethereal mostly all-white collection was a call for peace. The show was a cinematic dreamscape. Models were seen emerging from a cloud of mist as they sashayed down the catwalk. The line, which included some ready-to-wear looks, felt more casual and was a marked departure from his other collections, which typically only feature extravagant eveningwear. The theme of tranquility and calmness extended into the final few statement A-line gowns with green patterns splashed across them that were inspired by the northern lights.

Ready-To-Wear AW22: March 26-28

Bouguessa

Opening the ready-to-wear lineup was Faiza Bouguessa who presented us with a collection that was true to her sophisticated, elegant aesthetic. Clean lines, layering and understated tonal ensembles defined the collection, which was both chic and functional.

Pearla

Emirati brand, Pearla presented an array of modest looks featuring feminine floral designs and created in soft pastel hues.

SARA ALTWAIM

SARA ALTWAIM’s collection, titled ‘Bloom,’ was inspired by the work of Walter Crane, an 18th century artist best known for having illustrated children’s stories. Sara reimagined Walter’s sketches and incorporated them into her designs. This 18th century influence mixed with her asymmetric silhouettes and her more contemporary mixing of fabrics such as lace, tulle, leather and jersey created an interesting juxtaposition of past and present.

BORN IN EXILE

Designed by Ibrahim Shebani, BORN IN EXILE focused on transitional outerwear this season. The edgy collection featured bomber jackets and motorcycle jackets as well as denim button-downs. His use of red detailing in his embroidery and t-shirt graphics were self-referential nods to his own Libyan heritage. There was a distinct alpha-female energy to the way in which the models marched down the catwalk.

Death By Dolls

Young and avant-garde, the Death by Dolls collection is perfect for the young cool girl going out for a night on the town. Unapologetically confident, flashy and fun describes the collection. Notable standout pieces were a purple feather cocktail dress, a rhinestone-embellished oxford shirt with matching short shorts and a fringed sparkling skirt, which was layered atop of a few of the looks. 

Amato

Amato closed Fashion Week with an all-white collection, titled, ‘Take Me to the Sea,’ which was a comment on the health of our oceans and the over-usage of water – particularly in the fashion industry. Designer Furne Amato collaborated with Rashid Ali, a textile expert on the collection, which featured two-piece sets, dresses and short jumpsuits. The tonal palette accentuated the intricate details and expert manipulation of fabric. The use of sheer layering was used in various designs from dresses to tromp l’oeil shorts that were in fact pants. Standout pieces were the noughties-inspired low cut trousers and the tromp l’oeuil shorts with a sheer pant overlay.

All images courtesy of the Arab Fashion Council.

Lead images courtesy of Instagram/@ameniesseibi/@ninoskavasqueza