Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury
.
Posted inHarper's Bazaar News

Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury

Sprinkling references to great works by moore and caldo throughout his exclusive chat with Bazaar Arabia, Brunello Cucinelli discusses personal and professional pride, his company’s ethos, and why the Middle East holds such a special place in his heart

A fierce intellectual. A philosopher. An activist. The unofficial mayor of utopian medieval Umbrian hamlet Solomeo. These are all monikers that could be held by Brunello Cucinelli. And one suspects he’d embrace them all. But of course, what the 72-year-old Italian is most famous for is being at the helm of his eponymous label – considered by many to intrinsically encapsulate the ‘quiet luxury’ ethos. You don’t see big, bold logos, just timeless pieces that transcend trends. Another trademark? The finest of quality and craftsmanship – it is no coincidence that the ‘King of Cashmere’ is intrinsically linked to the delicate fabric, that oozes understated elegance and says much about the wearer – it is indeed for the wearer – and all about the wearer.

Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury

Speaking through a translator who is perfectly in sync and able to encapsulate his thoughts that often veer off into introspective, fascinating tangents, the maestro’s musings give you an insight into his priorities: people, and a preservation of their pride first and foremost. That is an intrinsic pillar of the company he founded in 1978. The whole enterprise is inspired by an ethical, sustainable approach to business – something that wasn’t fashionable back in 1978 when the label first launched. “Not having any ideals makes life difficult,” he tells us. And despite being pictured alongside tech titans like Amazon’s Jeff Bezos and and LinkedIn’s Reid Hoff man – both bona fide fans – and being a billionaire himself with a team of over 3,300 worldwide, he waxes lyrical about the importance of workers’ dignity and staying true to ones roots.

Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury

“We all work together in a micro oasis [in Solomeo]. At first there were 28 of us, maybe 300 with the periphery. Now 600. You need to make sure you do not lose your society, your heritage, your past identity,” he explains. “We are a small tribe, and we all lead the same life. I play cards with the people working for me. So I uphold the same ideals. I grew up with these ideals, and I was also born and bred amidst these ideals, because my grandfather, my father, we have all been upholding these ideals. If you are a role model, an example that your children see on a daily basis, you can make an impact. My daughters socialise with the same people they work with. They interact on a human scale.”

Brunello and his 33-year-old daughter Carolina – who has taken on the mantle of co-Creative Director and Vice President of the company – came to Dubai to debut the label’s first ever regionally-specific capsule, with a spectacular Spring/Summer 2025 showcase amidst the desert sand dunes at Dubai’s Sonara Escape. They hoped the modest collection, featuring abayas and kaftans, would resonate deeply with an area they have a very special bond with. “You know there are some trips which complete you,” Brunello says, recalling his sojourns to the area. “I am a passionate about the Arab culture. And this is an important, relevant trip for me because you have to really investigate the culture of a people. I am an Italian. So this is an Italian take [on modest wear] – with Italian flair, Italian inspired. Usually we have one single collection across the world.” The stunning looks, in the brand’s signature neutral tones, were styled by Marco Ferra and encompassed easy-to-wear silhouettes that nodded to tradition but were undeniably contemporary at their core.

The catwalk presentation, attended by both loyal clients and celebrities like Tara Emad, Jessica Kahawaty and Rym Saidi, was followed by a sit-down dinner under the stars that followed the subtle thread weaved through the evening, of combining both Arabic and Italian cultures.

Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury

There’s a reason the brand has gone from strength to strength. “I wouldn’t call [the brand] classic and traditional,” he insists. “Its about the way you wear it.” He stands up and points to his own outfit that epitomises the concept of sprezzatura, or curated carelessness. “This is a 10-year-old ripped denim with a one and a half-breast blazer, that I am wearing with these sneakers. I think this is a fresh and youthful.” He laughs, adding, “If I hide my face you could think that I’m 40 or 50, right? Even a young person can wear this outfit.” And to naysayers that question his commitment to egalitarianism due to the label’s high prices, he quickly retorts, “This is not something that is made for everybody. You cannot compare caviar with chicken eggs.” He goes back to an Italian word, for which there isn’t an exact English equivilant. “Carro. Carro means expense, but it involves value – which is a very different thing.”

Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury

It is clear that Brunello is not afraid to speak his mind. Even the term ‘quiet luxury’ grates. “It’s not quiet luxury. I call it gentle luxury, which is a symbol of beauty and of living within measure.” Sure, they may not be overt logos but it isn’t ‘quiet’ because it is deeply considered. He curated his outfit, and took the time to put together the pieces. “Luxury is always something very much sought after, that takes time. So we talk about things that are everlasting. It could be sentimental. It could be valuable.”

His determination comes from a deeply personal place. “My father was a worker, and my brothers too. They were off ended and humiliated at their workplace. Why should you off end a human being? My father made low wages and was humiliated on top of that. I never want to do that. When we went to the stock market [and the company was floated], I said to potential investors, if you want to invest in an enterprise, that believes in human dignity that tries, endeavours to make profit, but with ethics, then you should invest in me. I am not corruptible. The teary eyes of my father convinced me to be unwavering in my beliefs.”

Brunello Cucinelli: How The King Of Cashmere Came To Own Gentle Luxury

One thing is for sure, Brunello’s father must be proud of the company he had created – and the legacy he will leave with the Cucinelli name.

The key seems to be creating an environment and way of life that naturally embeds these values, rather than just trying to teach them abstractly. Leading by example and immersing the next generation in the culture appears to be the speaker’s approach.

Imagery supplied

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s February 2025 issue

No more pages to load