The Dawn Of A New Era For Damiani
As Damiani forges ahead into its next centenary, Silvia Grassi Damiani, vice-president of the Damiani group, shares what keeps the maison scintillating year on year
After marking its centenary last year, Italian jeweller Damiani is embracing the future with a renewed sense of purpose. “We started this year like year number one,” says Silvia Grassi Damiani, Vice-President of the Damiani Group. “It’s just like a new beginning.” The house’s latest high jewellery collection, Ode to Italy, sets the tone for what comes next – both creatively and strategically. Presented in an immersive exhibition, Ode to Italy is structured in three chapters, each inspired by a different facet of the Italian landscape and identity. The chapters span ‘Light of the Sea’, which draws on the hues and textures of Italy’s shoreline; ‘Landscapes of the Soul’, shaped by hills, lakes, mountains, and volcanoes; and ‘Dwellings of Time’, a tribute to the country’s cultural capitals – Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan.
At the heart of the collection is a focus on storytelling through rare, colourful gemstones – jewels that evoke memories and emotion as much as visual beauty. The Marea Rosa necklace, for instance – dedicated to Northern Sardinia – is the lead piece in the coastal chapter, with luminous Paraíba tourmalines that echo the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. Other highlights include the Dolce Stil Novo necklace, referencing the Tuscan countryside, and Aethernitas, inspired by the city of Rome. The collection follows Damiani’s centenary release of 100 one-of-a-kind pieces – a bold continuation of its high jewellery journey, reflecting growing collector interest.
“One year later, we are here with a new, incredible collection,” says Silvia. “We really see more and more interest from collectors in pieces which are rare and unique – even in stones not yet well known by the public.” She notes a shift in consumer appetite: “They’re becoming more intrigued. They want to know more – they’re very curious.”
This demand for distinctiveness is echoed in the selection of unexpected gemstones, which spans padparadscha sapphires and cat’s-eye alexandrites to black and brown diamonds, all chosen for their colour, unique character and origin. “There is really a need in the market for something even more exclusive and intriguing,” she says. Indeed, many of the stones in Ode to Italy mirror Italy’s diverse terrain, from Alpine lakes to volcanic magma.
All production remains in Italy, and every piece is handmade – an approach that hasn’t changed since the company was founded in Valenza in 1924. “We never compromise – not even with the quality checks,” says Silvia. Suppliers are rigorously vetted, and only stones that meet the maison’s exacting standards are accepted. “Everything is handmade, exactly as it was 100 years ago.”
While Silvia’s brother Giorgio is the creative director, she is closely involved in design discussions. “We are siblings, so we are very close,” she says. “Even if I’m not designing directly, many times I pass ideas to Giorgio – and some have even become bestsellers.” Her perspective as a female jewellery lover is vital in a company where 70 per cent of the workforce are women.
International expansion is also accelerating. The Middle East has become a key focus. “We’ve opened more than 10 boutiques in the region, including a new one in Abu Dhabi,” Silvia says. Her brother, who oversees the area, is now based in Dubai. She sees strong potential for limited capsule collections tailored to specific cultural references. “It could be a tribute to the place where you are, interpreted with our style.”
Silvia is focused on preserving the values that define the brand. “My greatest hope is that the company continues growing in a healthy way, maintaining our values – family, being Italian, and being open to the world,” she says. With Ode to Italy, Damiani demonstrates how high jewellery can reflect not just artistry and heritage, but also a sense of place – and a vision for the next century.
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From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia September 2025 Issue.