The Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino, Shows Us How To Holiday Like A Movie Star
She’s had a meticulously planned face-lift. But though the Belmond Hotel Splendido’s appearance may have been refreshed, her celebrated spirit – that has attracted a slew of celebrities since 1901 – remains preserved
Those in the know don’t say they’re going to Portofino, they say they’re going to the Splendido. This isn’t just an indication of how intrinsically linked this starry, storied property is to its location on the Italian Riviera – it’s what it says about you. It’s a stamp of belonging to a rarified world. An indication of taste, refinement. And yes, we will be so crass to point out, sheer spending power. The ‘Homage to Elizabeth Taylor’ tomato spaghetti starter – named after and created for the icon that adored it, and spent four of her honeymoons here – is 40 Euros. And when you order it, accompanied by a chilled spritz on the jasmine-scented, wisteria-clad La Terraza, you’ll come to the realisation that money surely Can buy happiness.
This pink 16th-century Benedictine monastery is anything but austere, as stars like Jennifer Aniston and Madonna would attest to. And it’s reemerged this summer season with added aplomb, having undergone a meticulous facelift courtesy of designer Martin Brudnizki, to celebrate its 40th anniversary under the stewardship of Belmond. Drawing inspiration from its setting – at the summit of a cliff overlooking the glistening super yacht-filled harbour (and the homes of designers Giorgio Armani and Dolce and Gabbana in the distance) – motifs of painted flora and fauna, bespoke Medea furniture and local artisanal techniques, are married with requisite upgrades when it comes to tech and modern amenities. You definitely won’t hear your neighbours, keen athletes on the tennis court, or the seagulls that swoop in the sunshine outside.
The vibe? Staying at your art collector friend’s villa. Luxurious, but understated. Comfortable yet elevated. Somewhere it wouldn’t seem out of place to see Jeff Goldblum and his jazz band take to the piano for an impromptu performance (true story, this happened in June).
Opt for one of the suites – 103 offers excellent views and two balconies, plus a stand-alone sunken tub complete with Aqua Di Parma toiletries – while La Baronessa is sure to become the ultimate bolt-hole for regulars looking for sprawling space. And while it’s tempting to order breakfast in bed, venture downstairs to fully indulge in a generous array of dainty patisserie, juicy sun-kissed fruit, fresh mascarpone and burrata coupled with the region’s famous pesto, plus Lombardian chef Corrado Corti’s signature Portofino eggs. Even A-listers can’t resist the temptation of taking a snap of the bay as the sun rises.
You’ll be tempted to take all your meals at La Terrazza – a hotspot for visitors willing to make the trek up the steep hill to get a taste of the property, and excellent for people-watching – but the poolside Splendido Grill is another option. Don’t miss the trofie pesto – rightly recommended by all the staff as a must-try – though the scent of wood-fired pizzas are hard to resist. Those taking in the sun on the tangerine-hued loungers with their distinctive striped parasols, can also take advantage of this menu as they dip in the (temperature-controlled) saltwater pool and sip. If there’s an unexpected drizzle? Head to the indoor bar that dispenses excellent Negronis and Ava Gardner (another fan) cocktails.
This season also sees the opening of a Dior spa. Distinctive Toile de Jouy wicker furnishings immediately set the scene, with a menu of face and body treatments that can be enjoyed in the comfort of dedicated rooms, or outside in specially created cabanas hidden on the cliffside. Many enjoy the brisk walk down to Portofino’s designer boutique-lined piazetta, where ferries still usher locals to nearby towns like Santa Margherita (where Silvio Berlusconi has his summer house) and fishermen share space with big boats in this once-sleepy village, but the Splendido also puts on a regular shuttle for guests. A hotspot? The hotel’s sister property, the 14-bedroom Splendido de Mare that has captured a prime location at the centre of the main square, flanked by Bottega Veneta, Brunello Cuccinelli and two Louis Vuittons, overlooking the port. Grab a pistachio cone at Gelateria Bar San Giorgio – a contender for the best ice-cream in the country.
Splendido is set amidst a protected, forested park – hence its lush surroundings – and in keeping with this ethos, it has a special relationship with an eco-farm La Portofinese. They’ll dispatch a tiny van to take you up what seems to be a footpath, but is actually a winding road, further into the greenery, where you can have private cooking lessons or dine amid organic vineyards and plantations endemic to the area. A must-do activity, even though you’ll be loathe to leave the comforting confines of the hotel, or cut into the exploration of the Cinque Terre (ideally via a sleek Riva boat arranged by the hotel).
There’s also been another simultaneous unveiling this season: the spectacular Villa Beatrice. This five-room villa (four suites in the main house, and a stand-alone cottage) with its own private pool and gardens offers the ultimate in privacy. Butler? Check. Private chef? Check. And complete access to the hotel next door if you’re looking for company during aperitivo.
For those who pride themselves on knowing the best, and staying at the best, it’s a right of passage to stay at the Splendido. It says you’ve not only arrived, but that you’ve kind of always been there, always belonged. And it takes a magical place to have this allure. For people, from billionaires to celebrities, to wear their patronage as a badge of pride. Once thing is for certain, the hype is justified. It’s a privilege to be part of this club. Belmond.co
Imagery supplied