Is Indian Fashion Being Reduced To ‘Ethnic’ Or ‘Culture Dressing’?
Straight from the Cannes red carpet, film producer and celebrity stylist Rhea Kapoor reacts to a movement that denies Indian style and savoir faire as a keystone of the global fashion conversation
South Asian fashion is not just clothing—it is a living archive of tradition, technique, and artistry. Our drapes, embroideries, and textiles are centuries-old yet eternally modern. They have long inspired European couture houses—sometimes subtly, often directly. The silhouettes of our saris, the richness of our handwork, and the discipline of our craftsmanship have quietly shaped the global fashion vocabulary.
And yet, South Asian culture dressing still doesn’t receive the recognition it deserves on international platforms. Our fashion—so rooted in heritage, so rich in identity—is still too often categorized as “ethnic” rather than elevated. Cited as “inspiration” rather than innovation. It is seldom granted the same space or reverence as Western couture, even though it often matches or surpasses it in intricacy, thought, and labour.
This invites us to ask: Who defines what is high fashion? Must global fashion still be filtered through a Western lens to be validated? Can fashion only be considered “couture” when it looks European—or is showcased by the West? What does that say about the industry’s idea of value, authority, and legitimacy? And what happens when entire traditions are referenced, borrowed from, even manufactured by global luxury houses, but not credited at the source?
Most importantly, we must acknowledge that a fair majority of the world’s leading French, European, and American brands produce a significant portion of their garments—including embroideries, textiles, and artisanal weaves—in India. The very essence of what is worn on the most celebrated runways is often the result of Indian craftsmanship. Our ateliers, our karigars [artisans], our looms are not just supporting global fashion—they are building it. Quietly. Invisibly. Proudly.
India has long been viewed as a lucrative market for international fashion. But when it comes to red carpet representation—especially dressing South Asian celebrities—there remains a gap in access, visibility, and genuine acknowledgment. The irony is profound: our hands are making the clothes, our heritage is inspiring the silhouettes, and yet, our voices are still asking for a seat at the table.
Culture dressing is not a detour from high fashion. It is high fashion.
Imagery courtesy of Rhea Kapoor
