Paris Fashion Week: The Debut Decoder You Need
From Dior to Chanel, the Paris runways are welcoming a new class of visionaries. We decode the references and house histories you need to know.
There’s no question that 2025 has been a distinct year of change and unrest — and fashion has been no exception. The industry has faced notable turbulence, with many of our favourite fashion houses appearing to be on a carousel of creative directors. When it came to show season, speculation was at an all-time high over who might deliver the most striking debut.
Here’s a comprehensive guide to the designers making their mark this season — the equivalent of walking into a museum with both the tour guide and the audio commentary in hand. Because fashion, like art, becomes infinitely more rewarding when you understand the symbolism, archives, and cultural references underpinning what you see.
So without further ado, here’s our guide to Paris Fashion Week’s most anticipated debuts.
Dior — October 1
Who’s at the helm?
Jonathan Anderson has long been considered one of the industry’s most original voices. He launched his eponymous label, JW Anderson, in 2008, quickly earning critical acclaim for its progressive approach to gender and form. Early in his career, he worked as a visual merchandiser at Prada, before establishing himself further at Versace’s Versus line.
In 2013, he was appointed creative director of Loewe, where he transformed the Spanish house into one of fashion’s most closely watched names and creator of cult pieces. Just two years later, he became the first designer to win both the menswear and womenswear categories at the British Fashion Awards. Now at Dior, he takes on both menswear and womenswear — the first person to do so since Christian Dior himself. He succeeds Maria Grazia Chiuri, the maison’s first female creative director, who led the house for nearly a decade.
Signals so far
At Dior, red carpet moments and announcements of brand ambassadors served as teasers to Anderson’s new reign. Greta Lee (a former Loewe face), Mia Goth, and Mikey Madison star in the new Lady Dior campaign. At the menswear show earlier this year, Sabrina Carpenter’s look reinterpreted the maison founder’s famous New Look. The collection drew on 18th-century inspirations as well as archive pieces, including the iconic Delft, Caprice, and Cigale couture gowns.
At Venice Film Festival, Mia Goth’s chocolate satin gown with an oversized bow and Greta Lee’s sheer green organza dress offered a freer, more modern Dior aesthetic. A first haute couture gown was also spotted on Alba Rohrwacher. Even the logo has been refreshed — reminiscent of the John Galliano years.
We expect Jonathan to continue his cultural fluency, from partnering with zeitgeist celebrities to turning memes into must-have accessories (who could forget Loewe’s tomato bag?). His creativity and instinct for the moment make his Dior debut one of the week’s unmissable events.
Mugler — October 2
Who’s at the helm?
Miguel Castro Freitas, a Portuguese designer, succeeds Casey Cadwallader after his seven-year tenure. Miguel brings in more than two decades of experience across the luxury landscape, having worked under John Galliano at Dior, Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Raf Simons at Dior, and Dries Van Noten. Most recently, he served as creative director at Max Mara from 2021 to 2024.
Signals so far
Margot Robbie recently sported vintage Mugler (twice), while London’s Selfridges unveiled a re-edit capsule revisiting the brand’s ’80s and ’90s legacy. At the same time, Miguel Castro Freitas has offered a glimpse of his vision through A Trilogy of Glorified Clichés, a short film series teased on social media. The cinematic approach feels particularly apt, for Mugler has long drawn on filmic references, from theatrical runway spectacles to the pandemic-era digital showcases that kept audiences connected when live shows were impossible. Beyond these teasers, the brand’s channels have fallen silent — only fuelling anticipation for his debut.
Thierry Mugler was famed for spectacular, boundary-pushing shows and an experimental use of materials like latex, metal, and feathers. Will Miguel channel that same unapologetic spectacle, or reframe Mugler for a new era?
Loewe — October 3
Who’s at the helm?
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the American duo behind Proenza Schouler, take charge. Partners since their student days at Parsons, they built the label into a brand synonymous with New York cool. While stepping away from day-to-day creative leadership at Proenza Schouler, they remain shareholders as they embark on their Loewe chapter.
Signals so far
Ahead of their debut, they launched a series of teaser images with photographer Talia Chetrit and a live countdown on Loewe’s website. The visuals carried a sun-drenched, cinematic energy that to me feels reminiscent of Call Me by Your Name, with its idyllic warmth and Mediterranean ease. Their first campaign featured rising stars Isla Johnston and Erin Kellyman, alongside a statement emphasising the “sunniness and sensuality” of Loewe’s Spanish roots.
Expect the pair to bring their sharp eye for fabric innovation and urban elegance to Loewe, reframing its codes with their unique balance of intellect and allure. Bringing the New York It-Girl to the Spanish It-Brand.
Maison Margiela — October 4
Who’s at the helm?
Glenn Martens, best known for his time at Y/Project and more recently Diesel, now takes the reins of one of Paris’s most enigmatic houses. A first of his class graduate at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Glenn has built a reputation for deconstruction, wit, and conceptual storytelling. He consistently finds ways to connect with audiences beyond the runway, staying culturally attuned while redefining the possibilities of contemporary fashion.
Signals so far
His couture debut in July unfolded as a bold collage of past, present, and future, seen on Kim Kardashian at the Venice Film Festival and fronted by Miley Cyrus in the maison’s latest campaign. The launch of Line 2 — conceived as a platform for artistic collaborations — further signalled his ambition to open Margiela to wider cultural dialogues, expanding the boundaries of what a fashion house can and should be.
At Diesel, Glenn reconnected the house with its original codes. We look forward to seeing him channel that same energy into Margiela. From anonymity and masks to art-driven collaborations, he is poised to revitalise the maison’s codes while reminding audiences why it remains fashion’s most enigmatic stage.
Balenciaga — October 4
Who’s at the helm?
Pierpaolo Piccioli, formerly of Valentino, now succeeds Demna at Balenciaga. He first crossed paths with Maria Grazia Chiuri in 1989 at Fendi’s accessories line, a partnership that would later shape their joint leadership at Valentino. An early internship at Brunello Cucinelli gave him a grounding in artisanal rigour, while his two decades at Valentino established him as a master of sculptural form and colour — think Valentino Pink. These experiences make him uniquely placed to interpret Balenciaga’s heritage of precision cutting and architectural silhouettes through his own lens of modern romanticism.
Signals so far
Balenciaga’s social media has teased cryptic imagery that references the maison’s heritage: archival Cristóbal Balenciaga silhouettes, past campaigns, handwritten logos, and references to Lucio Fontana’s spatialism. The maison also unveiled a new fragrance collection, honouring Cristóbal’s perfume Le Dix from 1947.
Pierpaolo may well steer Balenciaga back to its roots of form and sculptural mastery. The Lucio Fontana references hint at a dialogue between precise cutting and conceptual depth, bridging heritage with innovation. Expect romance, elegance, and a quieter power in contrast to Demna’s provocative spectacle.
Jean Paul Gaultier — October 5
Who’s at the helm?
Duran Lantnik, known for daring, upcycled creations, marks the label’s return to the ready-to-wear calendar after a decade of couture-only seasons. A winner of the 2024 LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize, Duran has dressed Beyoncé, Billie Eilish, and more. His work is already part of the permanent collections at the V&A in London and the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam. His design language fuses irony with environmental consciousness.
Signals so far
On Instagram, the brand has turned entirely purple, with mysterious references to John Giorno’s “Dial-A-Poem” project. Purple here feels deliberate — decadent, regal, and theatrical, perfectly in tune with Jean Paul Gaultier’s irreverent DNA.
Duran’s ethos of upcycling and subversion resonates strongly with Jean Paul Gaultier’s legacy. Expect this to be one of the season’s most aligned — and potentially explosive — creative partnerships.
Chanel — October 6
Who’s at the helm?
Matthieu Blazy, formerly creative director at Bottega Veneta, now takes the reins at Chanel. His CV includes formative roles with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, John Galliano, Phoebe Philo at Celine, and Raf Simons at Calvin Klein. He succeeds Virginie Viard. His more private persona, yet superior craftsmanship has made him the right man for the seemingly impossible position to fill.
Signals so far
So far, no teasers — the traditional runway showing route. However, the house has announced that the show will take place in the evening for the first time in years. At the Venice Film Festival, Tilda Swinton appeared in a relaxed white look that may or may not hint at Blazy’s understated approach.
After his award-winning tenure at Bottega, expectations are sky-high. The question is: will Blazy restore Chanel’s sense of fantasy while maintaining its codes? With his craftsmanship and vision, this could be the maison’s next great era.
Lead image courtesy of Instagram /@jonathan.anderson @muglerofficial @zarina_ezy @lazro @pppiccioli @duranlantnikyo @matthieu_blazy