Prada Makes 3D Fashion Dreams a Reality
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons redefine the way to wear florals this season with a touchy-feely collection that is causing a buzz
Why must the exceptional only be saved for special occasions? Why isn’t every day celebrated for the gift that it is? And why can’t we move through the world wearing clothing that reflects this ethos? These are questions that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons seemed to be exploring with their Autumn/Winter 2023 collection.
How did they express their desire to blur the lines between the conventional and the remarkable? By decisively splitting their canvas of the female form in two. Choosing practical wool-blend sweaters for tops and deftly crafted skits – delicately embellished with an array of three- dimensional blooms – as below-the-belt counterpoints. The skirts, from mini and pencil to circle and swing, were festooned with flowers that had been painstakingly constructed out of duchess satin, silk gazar, chiffon and even poplin.
The care and intention that went into each quivering blossom transmitted a message of conscientiousness and appreciation of artistry born from taking the time needed to construct something meant to endure – even if it came embodied as one of the world’s most fleeting elements. These pieces were quotidian couture, designed for women who don’t need a reason to dress with purpose and direction. This concept was developed further by the designers through their choice to not limit themselves to just one form of floral expression. Three uniquely different styles of embellishments were explored by the house’s seamstresses to create the various looks.
“Heed the message of Miuccia and Raf and wear these skirts with the èlan of someone living every day as if it was the best day of their life”
Pendant embroidery created what appeared to be a windswept bouquet of blooms. Flora that had been scattered by Mother Nature only to alight for an instant atop a Prada skirt. The large satin petals of calla lilies, bellflowers and liliums and their padded stems resting ever so lightly on the garment. The Standing embroidery was the one that most closely echoed something that might adorn a bridal ensemble. Handcrafted jasmine flowers spun from cotton organza blossomed from pure white skirts. And finally, the charming Pom Pom embroidery saw a myriad of flowers bursting jovially off the skirts in a cheerful expression of couture craftsmanship.
By choosing to open the Autumn/Winter 2023 collection with six of these pure white skirts in quick succession, and later to revisit the idea in the show – this time with the blooms backed by skits cut from grey wool fabric – the designers highlighted how critical this concept was to the overall narrative of the collection. One that paid a striking homage to the skills of the in-house artisans at Prada, but also brought to the foreground of fashion a new perspective to the overarching conversation about the preciousness of clothing.
That each luxury garment we buy should be viewed as precious because it is well-made and regarded as an investment piece to be maintained has long been argued by the industry. But that preciousness should also be stripped away from clothing so that even the most exceptional designs are not relegated to the backs of closets, only to be enjoyed fleetingly as event dressing.
It’s easy to imagine these flower-embroidered pieces being an astute option for a modern bride. Perfect for ‘the big day’ but also all the days after. It’s also easy to picture Prada connoisseurs clocking these already iconic designs and seeing their long-term, archival value. Hopefully, they will instead heed the message of Miuccia and Raf and wear these skirts with the élan of someone living every day as if it was the best day of their life. Now wouldn’t that be remarkable.
Images Supplied.
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s September 2023 issue.