5 Modern Make-Up Alternatives To Traditional Arab Beauty Products

Whether you’re seeking a flawless khol eyeliner look or an oud hair perfume that will last all day, these modern products take inspiration from traditional staples

There’s a timeless charm in traditions passed down through generations, a quiet power that persists even in our fast-paced, urbanised world, which often favours the advanced over the ancestral. Yet, some things never fade. Among them are the beauty rituals cherished by our parents and grandparents, enriched by years of trust and practice. In our search for roots in this modern age, these routines serve as grounding reminders of authenticity. While today’s market offers alternatives, nothing truly replaces staples like aker fassi or usma oil. After all, what’s organic remains rooted in the real.

Here’s our curated edit of modern alternatives that capture the look and feel of traditional beauty rituals, while harnessing modern know-how.

Aker Fassi

Originating from Northern Africa, mainly Morocco, Aker Fassi is a traditional and organic makeup product made from dried poppy petals and pomegranate peels, which has been passed down by Berber women for generations. The flower petals and fruit peels are grounded to a fine paste and mixed with a clay base, which is then moulded into a tablet or a cake form and left to dry. Once dried, it is ready to use with a wet makeup brush, simply dip it into the product, and apply to cheeks and lips to give a natural pink tint.

Chanel Lip and Cheek Balm

Chanel’s lip and cheek balm in shade 01 Red Camellia is the closest we’ve found to authentic Aker Fassi and its application technique (you can apply the balm straight from the mini glass jar) is also similar to the traditional clay pot. Unlike Aker Fassi, the Chanel balm has a creamy texture and there’s no need to wet the brush before application, simply apply with fingers to achieve a natural blush that suits all skin tones.

Ithmid Kohl

Applying itmid kohl is a tradition that runs deep in Emirati culture. The traditional technique involves making the product at home, and is believed to protect the eyes from grime and other substances. A recurring motif in art and poetry, Middle Eastern and Arab women adorned in kohl are often admired for their beautiful “oyoun al sood” (black eyes) or “oyoun kaheela” (kohl-rimmed eyes). The traditional kohl is made from from a rock-like antimony that is said to hold medicinal properties, and is soaked for three to four days in ‘zamzam’ water to soften up. It is then dried and crushed to a fine powder on a grindstone. The traditional method includes adding a pinch of roasted and finely ground date seeds, which is believed to promote the growth of lashes. It is then sieved using a fine cloth, and stored in finger-sized containers.

Guerlain Mad Eyes Intense Liner

As dark and black as traditional Kohl, Mad Eyes Intense Liner by Guerlain is a liquid eyeliner that is as intense and long-lasting from just one stroke. The brush tip is inspired by calligraphy brushes, enabling extremely fine lines and strokes. The most important aspect of Kohl is its dark black pigment and its staying power – this liner is similarly rich in pigment, resistant to water and humidity, and promises long-lasting wear for up to 24-hours.

Usma Oil

A household favourite, Usma oil is rich in antioxidants and provides protection for your scalp and hair from the daily damage caused by UV rays and pollution. Safe and versatile to use on eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair, the oil nourishes your follicles with nutrients that strengthen and facilitate growth. Widely renowned as the well-kept secret behind the region’s signature long and thick eyelashes.

Augustinus Bader The Eyebrow & Lashes Serum

Akin to the Usma oil, this Eyebrow & Lash Enhancing Serum by Augustinus Bader contains roselle and safflower extracts to nourish, stimulate, and revive the hair follicles for healthy and thick brows and lashes. Devised from 30 years of research and innovation, it similarly encourages lusher lashes while protecting them from environmental aggressors.

Aleppo Soap

Also known as ghar soap, (the Arabic word غَار, meaning ‘laurel’) is a handmade soap bar commonly associated with Aleppo, Syria. Officially a castile soap, it is made from olive oil, laurel oil, and lye. The key ingredient in Aleppo soaps is the oil of bay laurel, derived from laurel trees, which acts as a gentle cleanser and makes it suitable for the most sensitive skin. It is the original all-in-one cleanser, and can be used on the face, body, and even for shaving.

Santa Maria Novella Olive Oil Soap Bar

Santa Maria Novella’s Olive Oil soap bar is made of pure extra-virgin olive oil from the hills of Tuscany. Just like Aleppo soap, it is perfect even for dry and sensitive skin. Its key ingredient, olive oil, acts as a gentle cleanser while moisturising at the same.

Mukhammaria

A unique, solid perfume, made from natural oils, oud, spices and florals, mukhammaria offers a rich and intense fragrance that lasts all day. With a balm-like texture and an oil base, mukhammaria is a niche type of perfume that is applied on the inner wrists and hair alongside oud, as the oil content helps to lock in scents and soften your skin and hair.

Hermes Barénia Perfumed Body Cream

Barénia is a perfumed body cream by Hermès that melts into your skin as it soothes and hydrates and leaves your body with a delicate fragrance. Scented with butterfly lily, miracle berry, oakwood and a touch of patchouli, the fragrance is similar to the mukhammaria, hydrating the skin while enveloping you in long-lasting fragrance.

Oud Hair Perfume

Oud hair perfume is highly cherished in the Middle East for its luxurious scent and cultural significance. Used to scent hair for special occasions and gatherings, oud is known for its deep and rich woody aroma. In many Gulf countries it is a staple product for grooming rituals, and is associated with elegance, hospitality and heritage.

Dior’s hair perfume is designed specifically for your locks, enveloping hair with the scent of Oud Rosewood with just one spray. A single spritz releases a generous cloud of fragrance composed of sandalwood and even richer undertones, which which last all day until your head hits the pillow.

Lead Image credits: Harper’s Bazaar India