Take A Step Back In Time With The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
Upholding old-world glamour and decades of history, The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is just as special as you imagine. And if you want to go big, its 23 metre L’Observatoire carriage is now available for hire…
In a world where it’s cool to be jaded, and to act like you’ve seen and done better, where does that leave the humble bucket-list experience? The ones that surely still inspire awe, child-like joy, and perhaps even a soupçon of envy? Are they still around? Did they survive the double-edged sword of TikTok virality?
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express certainly did – and thank goodness. Because not only is it one of the last bastions of truly unique, once-in-a-lifetime trips, but its time-capsule appeal also speaks to a pre-social media world, when ‘overexposed’ wasn’t even in our collective vocabulary. Part of this is due to that true cornerstone of luxury; scarcity. With only 70 approximate journeys a year and 45 routes including a one-night Venice-to-Paris jaunt, a three-night Paris-to-Portofino (stay at the Splendido when you arrive), and a five-night Paris-to-Istanbul option, they often get booked up a year in advance. But good things come to those who wait, and whether you’ve opted for the bijoux Historic Twin Cabin (small in size, big on glamour), or a Grand Suite complete with en-suite bathroom (not a given in the Historic Twin – you are on board a train after all, even if it is a fabulous one), the experience is undoubtedly something to write home about. So much so, that they offer a complimentary postcard service which you can post in the mail box in the centre of the train. Far chicer than an Insta Story to tell everyone how much of a grand old time you’re having.
This just scratches the surface of sepia-tinged nostalgia that you’re thrust into once on board. White-gloved stewards greet you, settle you in and return with champagne, devilled eggs and smoked salmon on fine bone china. You’re made familiar with your room – amenities include a butter-soft cashmere blanket in case you get chilly, 1920s-style robes (which you can pack as a keepsake, along with an engraved silver soap dish), Agatha Christie novels (naturally), and a not-insignificant array of Officine Universelle Buly beauty products. The only thing incongruent with the rest is the brand-new Dyson hairdryer tucked away in the wardrobe. It might stand out, but it’s a welcome 21st-century addition.
If ‘cosy’ isn’t really your thing, L’Observatoire is available to rent; an entire 23 metre-long carriage to yourself, designed by the illustrious, pioneering publicspace artist JR. Even to the seasoned Middle Eastern traveller, this astronomical observatory-inspired space is quite the spectacle, with a freestanding bath, its own library brimming with hundreds of Gallimard books, a fireplace, hidden tearoom, record player (with vinyl curated by JR) and an oculus skylight. The perfect place to sit and ponder how lucky you are, we’d imagine.
LVMH-owned Belmond, who run the train, have refurbished the original carriages with cinematic levels of detail; deliberate of course, since every corner is worthy of capturing for posterity. The train’s history is fundamental to its overarching romance; you can’t help but wonder about the characters that have traversed the world in these carriages since the ‘20s – it’s all part of the richness and the fantasy.
Visually, however, it’s the wooden marquetry, mother-of-pearl inlay, mosaic bathroom flooring and Art Deco crystal lampshades that are all main characters; making the rooms alone Oscar-worthy… and that’s all before you even get to the dining carriages – of which there are three; Etoile du Nord, Cote d’Azur and L’Oriental – or famous bar car, ‘3674’. Eating and drinking on board is a main event; as fundamental as gazing out of the velvet curtain-draped windows onto the bucolic landscapes of Europe. A combination of the two – sipping tea, wrapped in cashmere on your cabin’s sofa, watching the Alps unfold – is a true pinch-me moment. As is post-dinner, watching the resident pianist tinkling the ivories of a baby grand while you play cards and order a cocktail that seems appropriate. An Old Fashioned, perhaps. Midnight brunch is served – lobster rolls and truffle club sandwiches courtesy of Chef Jean Imbert. Everyone – and I mean everyone – is dressed to the nines. They don’t just encourage it, they insist.
On that note, just as crucial as booking ahead is planning a wardrobe to match such a grand adventure. “You can never be overdressed onboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express,” it says in the itinerary sent over once you book. “In the evening, the ambience of the train inspires guests to dress in their most glamorous finery, which enhances the atmosphere for all passengers and is something we heartily applaud… Out of respect for other guests, passengers inappropriately dressed will be asked to take their drinks and meals into their cabin.” Quite right, too. No one likes a buzzkill. Embrace it fully and go as over-the-top as you can; your butler is on hand to steam-iron the prerequisite tux and gown ahead of time. You might be on a train, but they make you feel like you’re about to walk the red carpet. And the smiles of the other passengers alone makes the dressing up worth it.
There’s something really special about a shared experience with people who are genuinely thrilled to be there. Old couples celebrating a special decade of marriage, big birthdays being marked in the grandest of fashions, a newlywed’s honeymoon highlight…every single person on board was excited, giddy even, to be there. Even the A-list Hollywood couple in the cabin next to ours couldn’t help but look delighted the entire time. Show me one hotel – even the best in the world – that can inspire the same.
For more information visit: belmond.com
Imagery Supplied
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s October 2025 Issue.
