Finding Myself In AlUla: Chasing Nirvana in Saudi Arabia

Bazaar Arabia’s Laura Kell ventures to the desert retreat in search of inner tranquility

“I manifest my own destiny. I set healthy boundaries. I harness the power of the universe. I can, will — no! — I am change…”

I am lying on my back staring up at the desert night sky, watching the clouds roll in above the canyons as a storm looms in the distance. My eyes are supposed to be closed. I should be in deep meditation, repeating my mantras over and over again, but Mother Nature has other plans. In between my destiny-manifesting and boundary-setting (try not to roll your eyes), she’s putting on quite the spectacle.

I can see lightning flickering in the corners of my eyes, great big flashes in the distance, illuminating the heavens. The low rumble of thunder is a bit too close for comfort and there’s a full moon above me. The air is dry and hot – it’s a kind of heat I’ve never experienced before, one that is more therapeutic than sweltering and sticky. Given the conditions, in any other situation, I would be anxiously trying to seek shelter. But tonight I’m embracing the untainted energy of a destination that is best described in two words: pure magic.

I’m spending the weekend at luxury eco-resort Habitas AlUla, on a wellness retreat designed to stimulate the body, heal the mind and feed the soul. Essentially, holidaying with a purpose: to better myself and my mental health. I’m long overdue for this trip. So. Long. Overdue.

Located in the north-western province of Medina in Saudi Arabia and the current home of Desert X, this sacred ancient town has fascinated me for some time now, barren from the marks and the jaded attitudes of city life. Before boarding the plane to AlUla (approximately a two-hour flight from Dubai International Airport), I decided to fully commit myself to the programme and embrace any new ageisms tossed my way, sound healing and all.

Despite the fact that I am committed to my mission, entirely devoted to use this weekend to regenerate my psyche in time for the autumn rush, my inner child has plans of her own. She’s abuzz with ideas and is finding it extremely difficult to stay still – even in the group setting of a guided meditation. She wants to let out a loud giggle amid the silence.

Thankfully, Habitas AlUla is the kind of place where your inner child can run free, taking in the never-ending wonders that surround the breathtakingly beautiful space it claims as its Saudi home – from the immersive art installations like Manal AlDowayan’s Now You See Me, Now You Don’t (also known as the trampolines in the desert), to hidden hiking trails and archaeological marvels (UNESCO World Heritage site Hegra is a 30-minute drive from the resort.) It would be hard, nay, nearly impossible not to find some kind of happiness or childish contentment within the confines of the canyons.

Guests are provided with electronic bicycles they can ride around the property, exploring the winding paved paths in-between villas. Thuraya Wellness Centre offers a selection of gentle activities to help calm the body and mind, while hiking excursions and day trips to the Old Town can also be arranged for those with wanderlust tendencies. And while the accommodations are nothing short of plush – each abode boasts an outdoor terrace, is equipped with a telescope for star gazing and, of course, has air-conditioning – the resort is decidedly unpretentious.

The villas were built with their natural surroundings in mind and are crafted from ethically sourced organic materials (I’m told, upon construction, drilling into the ground was avoided in order to prevent disruption to the environment). Habitas AlUla is truly committed to cultivating a spirit of community, as guests are welcomed into “the family” once they get there with an arrival ceremony. There is also no room service as we are encouraged to congregate at Tama, the resort’s restaurant which overlooks the spectacular infinity pool, with views of the property and canyon.

After an early morning of sunrise yoga, I spent my final day lounging by the pool, journaling and soaking up the last few moments of tranquility before heading off to the airport. My inner child had finally settled down and a newfound sense of calm had come over me. As an anxious, Type A person by nature, I’ve never felt the need to find myself Eat, Pray, Love style – I take pride in having always known who I am and what I want out of life. But the energy of AlUla, her untouched (and, perhaps, somewhat misunderstood?) beauty had awakened something deep within me.

Armed with a fresh perspective on life, recharged batteries and slightly sun-kissed skin, I leave ready to tackle the challenges of the upcoming busy season.

From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s October 2022 Issue