How To Book A Stay At The Queen Mother’s Favourite Scottish Retreat
Designed to capture the character of its most discerning guest, a weekend spent in the Bowes-Lyon Suite at The Balmoral is authentic Edinburgh at its finest
Looming proudly above its neighbours on Edinburgh’s lively Princes Street, The Balmoral’s clock tower casts a long shadow over the criss-crossing tracks of the city’s train station. Since opening in 1902, the conspicuous clock has been set three minutes fast so passing travellers don’t miss their trains. It’s a friendly gesture that became lore. As much a part of the city’s story as Castle Rock, Hogmanay, or the Fringe Festival. Indeed, for much of the 20th century the hotel was known as the North British Station Hotel for its proximity to Waverley station and quickly became famous for its discerning guests and celebrity clientele. With returning regulars like Laurel and Hardy, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and Paul McCartney, the address gained a hard-earned reputation for its outstanding hospitality, uncompromising quality, and, perhaps above all, its discretion.
Its more recent history is equally vibrant. In 1991, the hotel was refurbished and christened The Balmoral, before being reopened by none other than Edinburgh-born Sean Connery, better known as Bond. James Bond. Even J.K. Rowling left her mark – in the form of a signed bust sculpture – after penning Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in one of the hotel’s 20 artisanal suites. And now it’s time to add my name to this list of distinguished guests. As incomparable as I rightly feel, I do know a thing or two about luxury hotels with heritage, so my expectations are high. With this, my taxi pulls up to the luxury landmark and I’m whisked through its heavy revolving doors by a kilted man with an easy smile.
“Welcome, Mr. Harrington. You will be spending the night in our Bowes-Lyon Suite,” explains one of the hotel’s pristinely dressed staff. “Concierge will be at hand to answer any questions and tend to any needs, day or night.” With that, I am gently guided through the hotel’s immaculate cream-carpeted corridors to my suite, which is set apart from the hotel’s other 167 rooms by its royal blue door. This is the first nod to the suite’s namesake, Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, the Queen Mother. This was her go-to accommodation when visiting the city, and its interiors have drawn great inspiration from her character, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity to create a striking space worthy of even the most astute patron.
As I survey the suite, I am told it has been curated by seasoned interior designer Olga Polizzi, Sir Rocco Forte’s sister, and combines themes of Scotland’s verdant countryside with its longstanding regal tradition. This can be seen throughout the 67-square-metre space, which opens onto a salon-cum-lounge, furnished with plush green velvet sofas, spotless glass tables and a large hardwood writing desk. Heavy floral curtains hide deep-set, porthole-style windows that overlook the hustle and bustle of the street below. Inside, it is calm and silent – a near-impossible feat for a city centre location less than five minutes from the Royal Mile, but one I am grateful for. The bedroom is equally serene. Spacious and immaculate, a plush king-size bed acts as a focal point, while the adjoining bathroom is all marble and polished silver, stocked with a full range of luxury Asprey toiletries.
The most impressive thing about the suite, however, isn’t the big gestures. It’s the little ones. The classics on the bookshelves; the chocolate-fudge gift set. In fact, this feeling of the personal and deliberate can be sensed throughout the hotel. It is luxury without pretention and world-class service without ego. At The Balmoral, it all feels effortless.
After settling in, I decide to visit the spa, where I enjoy a steam, sauna and swim, before treating myself to some fine-dine room service after a long journey. If you’re feeling more outgoing, the hotel boasts some of the best dining options in Edinburgh, with its Michelin-starred restaurant, Number One, leading the charge. Helmed by head chef Mathew Sherry, it serves modern Scottish fare with flair.
Breakfast is served in another of the hotel’s acclaimed eateries, Brasserie Prince. Overseen by chef Gary Robinson, this chic, relaxed spot is classically stylish, with a contemporary cocktail bar that comes alive at night. Its unfussy, yet perfectly executed interiors are mirrored by its menu, which delivers satisfying staples ranging from steak frites to Scottish salmon throughout the day. For breakfast, I opt for Eggs Florentine from the à la carte menu and am delighted by perfectly poached eggs, seasoned spinach and a homemade Hollandaise that balances the dish beautifully. Sooner than I’d like, though, it’s time to check out.
I harbour a genuine sadness as I reluctantly hand over my key card. During my short time at the hotel, it felt like home. There’s a genuine warmth to The Balmoral that goes beyond its stunning architecture and unrivalled facilities; one that can only be attributed to its kind and caring people. As I frenziedly exit the hotel, rushing for my soon-to-depart train, I glimpse the clock tower one final time. Running breathlessly down the station stairs, I’m suddenly grateful it still runs three minutes fast.
Visit roccofortehotels.com
Images supplied and Adam Wilson at Unsplash
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s May 2022 issue.